7.5' meyer plow on m1009 any guys with experience?

[paraclete comes]

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=346930&d=1342751586

Hello gents had a question for you guys with plows. I've decided to throw a plow on my m1009 we have an appointment next month, it's nothing crazy just a rebuilt meyer 7.5 with new cutting edge, etc.

What modifications might I consider and how well do these plow (m1009)? Also for you guys that have thrown plows on these trucks did you loose clearance or approach angle when the plows off in the summer?


So far we have regeared to 4.10's, obviously we run studded tires in winter but have one set of chains. Planning on second set, have winch and custom bumper on it. The install guy said he can work the plow mount around it no issues.

Pictures don't show it but I now have a military 12k warn winch mounted in the bumper. That winch is an absolute beast by the way.

I was thinking re arching the springs and an add-a-leaf might be needed. I thought about a deep tyranny pan as well. Already added an external tyranny cooler and egt gauge also put in a tranny temp gauge as well. I'd like lockers in the rear end but am holding out as I've got a 14ff waiting on standby if I go that direction.

Any input will help, thanks guys.

 

[steelypip]

This sounds like a good plan. I saw other K series blazers set up with plows when I lived in Northern Maine. They did the job pretty well, although the preferred plow truck was a 3/4 ton LWB pickup with something heavy (usually a snowmobile or some sandbags) in the bed. The only win the pickup had over a blazer is the longer wheelbase makes it less prone to turn when you're doing a throw to the side. Blazer-sized things are better in tight parking lots because they're not as long, and the tighter turning circle helps.

If you're planning on plowing powder on a road you'll probably have to do something about snow spray through the radiator causing belt slip. We put the 4" cap on our 6.5 foot Fisher Quick Switch to help deal with that. With a Meyer it's a bigger concern because the hyd. pump is electric - will kill the battery pretty quickly without a big alternator turning to keep the juice up. Even if you have an engine driven hydraulic pump, you still need lots of power to run the lights, wipers, and defroster, as all will be running the whole time you're plowing fresh snow. If you plow parking lots it's even worse because you're constantly loafing around just above idle and constantly working the plow hydraulics.

Another very useful addition is fog lights on a roof bar arranged to give 200 degrees or so of light around the truck. Plowing in winter is often dark work as the days are short. Extra wattage in the backup bulbs or a rear facing fog light on a relay wired into the backups isn't a bad idea either. Lights on the grille do relatively little good because the plow (and sometimes snow blowing off of it) block them.

Don't forget an entrenching shovel for when you get stuck.

 

[cucvrus]

That is one of the best plow vehicles you can use. I have one with a 7.5 western. If you have the stock dual alternators you can plow all day and night with the lights and the heater and defroster on high. Never runs out of electricity. I did have squealing belts the last time I plowed but that was an easy fix. I replaced the belts and switched the pulleys on the alternators to the solid style pulleys. Instead of the stamped metal ones that were rusty and pitted and good hot very quickly when the belt slipped. The new pulleys are solid steel and seem to hold the belts nicer. Blazers are nice for tight plowing areas and get good traction up hill and down hill while backing. I have split the transmission in half one time. That was my fault because I plowed it for 2 days straight and it was getting sloppy and I kept pushing it. It would hesitate going from forward to reverse and started slamming into gear and I revved it and it went bang and bled out in about 10 minutes. It would go forward but not backwards. It has been off road since 1999 and is used 5 days a wek 40 hours a week. I will post pictures after the holidays when we get the storm of the century. Happy Holidays.

 

[paraclete comes]

Thanks for the info guys. I just got an ibid tek light bar for the roof but it's only 24" with two flood lights, hopefully it works ok. Otherwise it's back to the drawing board to find a decent light bar for the 09 while plowing. I hope those two monster alts are big enough to run everything you guys mentioned. I'm currently running a winter front from one of the guys here on the forum, hopefully that will keep the snow out.

I have seen the shield thing you mention, not sure where to find one but ill start looking.

Cucvrus any idea where you found the solid pulleys? Also the rear back up light upgrade sounds like a good idea. Ill have to figure out a way to fix that up. Maybe another light bar or fab a low pro platform so I can throw a couple led rounds on it.

Hoping this works out well, just don't want to kill my clearance. Figure interior is torn up so while it's getting redone I'm throwing seat heaters in for the wife.

 

[steelypip]

I'm trying to remember being actually cold while plowing. I've had cold, wet hands many times, had to wipe melted snow off my glasses when I got back in the truck, but the truck is always 80 degrees because you're usually running the defrost full blast to keep the snow melting as it hits the glass. Seat heaters are awesome, but they'd be for the drive into town after an overnight cold soak.

BTW: If you will be parking outdoors below 20 F or so, get an engine heater and use it. It makes things a lot easier on the hardware. My favorites were always the Katz heaters that went in the heater line because they circulate the coolant. If you're parking somewhere cold (like below -10F) then get a battery heaters and a dash mount thermostatically controlled heater that will try to keep the interior above freezing. It won't succeed, but it makes a big difference in how cold and hard the seat is for the first 10 miles or so.

 

[paraclete comes]

all good information. The CUCV's sure have strong heaters already, I have a block heater I plug in all winter as it get down to the -30's well it did last year where we live now. Never even heard of a battery heater but will look into it. Last year running -30's was no issue in the blazer running 50/50 mixed diesel. this summer I added an in bowl heater for the racor spin on fuel heater were running. Hopefully that helps out, but a battery heater hadn't heard of that.

 

[cucvrus]

I get the solid pulleys from a local alternator shop. And a word on the winter front. I would not plow snow with that on. That truck is working hard with that plow and that will block a lot of needed air. Combined with the low speed and hard work of plowing that engine is hot as a fire cracker. I never had any issues without any front cover. If you have the brush guard and still have the need to put a cover on just put it on the brush guard. it will give it somewhere to pull air while still shielding the radiator. I remember driving in snow and plowing that when I opened the hood the engine was covered in snow and only the air cleaner and exhaust manifolds were visible. The fan and pulleys were going around in a snow sculpture. The underside of the truck was completely snowed shut with the drive shafts the only visible thing. You get the picture. Happy Holidays.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

...but a battery heater hadn't heard of that.

They come in two styles, AFAIK, a pad or a blanket.

Check 'em out: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Battery+Heaters/N0651/C0076.oap

 

[paraclete comes]

Those battery heater blankets are pretty slick. Not badly priced either, I may throw those in a couple of my vehicles to help out in the winter. Thanks guys

Good advice on the winter front while plowing.

 

[steelypip]

If your batteries are prone to ooze at all, I'd go with the stick-on or pad over the blanket. Blankets do keep the battery warmer, but don't suffer exposure to sulfuric acid vapor well.

Putting on my solutions chemist hat for a moment, I'll point out that essentially all of the cold weather starting problems for most vehicles relate to reduced cranking power (ajd resulting reduced cranking speed) because the chemistry in the battery happens more slowly at low temperatures. An easy test is to take the battery out of the vehicle and store it indoors above freezing overnight (ideally hooked up to a maintainer). Carry it out to the cold-soaked vehicle in the morning, hook it up and be amazed at how easily it spins the -20 F truck over.

Battery heaters should be more popular than they are. They're right in there with fuel heaters for diesels in the scheme of useful cold-weather equipment.

BTW, I would also be careful about running the winter cover on a plow truck. Speeds are low and effort tends to be high, which equals a lot of cooling demand.

 

[paraclete comes]

Sounds good. Ill give the pads a good look, although I haven't yet had any issue with leaking battery that I know of. Regarding the winter front, I figure when we plow it'll come off.

 

[paraclete comes]

Ahh tried to edit out photo, not sure what happens.

 

[paraclete comes]

Has anyone had to use an add-a-leaf to help with additional weight on front end of the truck with plow?

 

[UNIMOG-GUY]

While I don't have a M1009 I do have a M1028 w/a blizzard plow setup and I do lose clearance and the approach angle is greatly reduced with the truckside plow bracket on the truck. I don't use the truck offroad (other than collecting firewood) as I have a Unimog 404 for offroad adventures. I didn't add an add a leaf but the truck suspension is heavier than the Blazer suspension.

 

[Evil Dr. Porkchop]

I didn't add an add a leaf but the truck suspension is heavier than the Blazer suspension.

CUCV pickups don't have anymore spring in the front than the CUCV blazers.

 

[Westech]

That is one of the best plow vehicles you can use. I have one with a 7.5 western. If you have the stock dual alternators you can plow all day and night with the lights and the heater and defroster on high. Never runs out of electricity.

Are you using a 24V pump? Otherwise the passenger side alternator is really not doing a darn thing.
The driver side is the 12V power source. It is rated factory at 100 amps. Everything on that truck is 12V beside the starter.

 

[pa.rich]

I have been plowing for over 45 years. The plows they have now are good with the lights they come with, I have a rubber flap on the top of the blade to keep the snow and road dirt off the hood etc. I have used steel cutting edges, and the rubber added to the cutting edges. I plow alot of gravel drives, lanes and a huge parking lot of gravel and like the rubber on the cutting edge for that, It is quieter and less vibration, and picks up less stone which is a good thing when cleanup time comes in the spring. The only add on to the factory set up that I like is a strong reverse spot lite . Other than that the trucks, Ford, Chevy will work well without a front radiator cover, extra lites for forward operation. I have had half ton's but don't think they hold up as well as a 3/4 ton or one ton. Some weight in the bed, like 5-600 pounds is good to give those rear wheels some traction. Oh and a blinker light is good for when you are near any traffic or pedestrians. A set of chains would be good for those heavy wet snows, but wouldn't go over the road with them very far. Your defrosters and heater are a must. Heated rearview mirrors would be great, good clean connections on a good battery. I have seen plow drivers flying into piles and spinning the wheels and just abusing their trucks. Baby your truck and it will last longer. Keep the front of the blade painted so the slow slides off it. Watch your gauges. I like the Fisher plows, had Westerns, but like the Fishers better. On an interstate be careful of overheating your truck when driving from job to job. The swirling of air sucks the air away from the radiator and the faster you go, the worse it is. Drop the blade lower or high it doesn't make much of a difference but keep your speed down and get to know your truck and what speeds are good when on the high speed roads. I find that over 60 it will get too hot but 60 and under it is o.k. Angling the blade doesn't help either. If you are plowing with a dually you should have at least a 8'6"wide blade or your rear wheels will be riding on the windrow. It's mostly common sense and a good working machine , new or real old, New is nice , but hate to work a new truck. Don't want to get it dirty! I love to take my old truck to the spray wash and clean the salt off it under and upper, blade and all. Salt is the worst thing about being out on the road plowing. The salt will do more damage than the wear. Thanks for reading.

 

[paraclete comes]

All good info, lots of stuff here I'm glad to know ahead of time. Our new gears go in next week, plow after that. Still on the fence about the add a leaf but may just go to it. Can't hurt with all the excess weight I have.

 

[paraclete comes]

Ok went ahead and ordered the four leaf spring packs. There rated at 1900lbs each. They said the stock two leaf springs are 1200lbs and the three leaf is rated at 1400lbs. So I figured the extra 400 lbs of support would be only enough for a plow. Seeing as I have the heavy bumper and monster winch I opted for the extra weight rating. Hopefully it works out well.

Will post up a review when they get installed. SD Springs had some dirty deals I could pass up

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Are those for the front?