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74M35A2

Well-known member
4,145
330
83
Location
Livonia, MI
Come drive it when done. This was your thread, I'm just along for the ride. Bought an M35a2, was too slow and small, sold it a week later for double what I paid for it. Bought an M925a2, it held family of 4 and went faster, so that is fixed, but feels and sounds like a bus cause the trans.

If doing the work for a shifter, then why stop at 5, or 7, or 9, or 10 speeds, when a 13 is darn near the same amount of cost and work, and as long as it fits, then why not? 18 speeds are too new, so too pricy. A newer 13 can be converted to an 18 at the shift knob interlock, but not the older 13's. There is a 13 speed tranny on eBay right now asking $750 with no bids. One could wave $500 at that guy and he would take it. You don't need to do all this silly bucket type flywheel and clutch stuff with normal engines, but because I went with something stupid, I get to buy stupid obscure stuff. This replacement engine had better run or I am going to be cheesed.
 

74M35A2

Well-known member
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330
83
Location
Livonia, MI
14" cup type flywheel, naked. The twin friction discs sit inside and the pressure plate bolts to the top rim. A spacer flat plate fits between both friction discs, and is keyed to the flywheel rim with square shoulder pins so it can move but also be driven from the flywheel. Third picture is a clutch brake. 2 weeks ago, I was like WTF is a clutch brake? Now I own one....

IMG_1637.jpg IMG_1592.jpg IMG_1593.JPG
 
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74M35A2

Well-known member
4,145
330
83
Location
Livonia, MI
Bought a used air assisted hydraulic clutch slave actuator and fork. Also won a super clean non-assisted hydraulic one on eBay for $25! Ha! Win.

IMG_1640.JPG IMG_1641.JPG
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
12,122
9,366
113
Location
Mason, TN
Question here is that do you really know how to drive a 13spd?

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
 

Bandit02

New member
199
3
0
Location
Blind Bay, BC
2 piece in the way to go, when you slice the tabs off a 1 piece your in there with a torch or air chisel cutting it out...ugh I say.

15 spd would be neat-0, I mean with a 18 I doubt you'll ever split high range with the speeds these trucks go.
 

silverstate55

Unemployable
2,075
872
113
Location
UT
Third picture is a clutch brake. 2 weeks ago, I was like WTF is a clutch brake? Now I own one....
That's why you don't fully depress clutch pedal unless you're at a stop...while shifting/range-changing only depress clutch pedal halfway as you double-clutch, and it will go smooth as butter (generally). Double-clutching works really well with Deuce transmissions too. Great thread!!
 

74M35A2

Well-known member
4,145
330
83
Location
Livonia, MI
Correct updated knob bezel and dash card for the updated handle. Seems if I can count to 8, we should be all set? Anybody care to wager on that?

13decal.JPG

We should actually be taking bets on whether it is going to fit or not. That seems to be the utmost question as to what has ever prevented this from being done before. I think that is where the anticipation lies with this, and I am really anxious to submit the post that it does, if/when so.

I have a waiting list several folks long already for my current 6CTA8.3L complete engine already, but if somebody wants my Allison MT654CR when this is swap is done, get ahold of me. It is a perfect smooth shifting unit up and down, with zero leaks. There is still time for a test drive, and I will video its operation before removal. You can have an open cup full of drink on the floorboard and it will not spill when shifting, even on the 2-1 downshift. I may or may not be able to include the PTO and pump (M925a2), that remains TBD once the Roadranger is installed to see what remains for room.
 
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74M35A2

Well-known member
4,145
330
83
Location
Livonia, MI
Christmas in May. Used hydraulic clutch master and slave arrived. Matched pair, both made by Wabco for the Roadranger trannys, so should work. Has a clutch pedal switch to cancel cruise control if I want to use it. Of course they use some proprietary hose fitting..... The French hate us.

Wabco.JPG

I also have an air assisted hydraulic clutch slave and the clutch fork on order, used.
 
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74M35A2

Well-known member
4,145
330
83
Location
Livonia, MI
Interesting thread. I read some but not all of it. It looks like he also used an SAE #2 housing on both just from a visual. The thread dead ended, so we don't know what the outcome was. His transfer case move may be due to the original 250 engine being longer than the 8.3L, and/or it seems he was wanting to add a Brownie box he got his hands on. I didn't study the details. One thing I like to see is his cab off pics, including the one where he does a straight shot photo from the rear of the Roadranger to the front axle prop shaft flange. Once you project that line down to the crossmember, it seems like the front prop will clear. This is the big point we are all waiting to see. If I don't have to move my T-case, this becomes more tempting for others to do as well. Here is the pic I am talking about, stolen from his thread. While I was at it, I also stole one showing the front prop shaft bearing carrier, for you later a1 and a2 gens that have not seen this.

RR.jpg CB.jpg
 

74M35A2

Well-known member
4,145
330
83
Location
Livonia, MI
I really can't stand sitting at this desk right now. I'm heading out to get the clutch, pilot bearing, alignment tool, and clutch brake (all same place). That should complete the major grocery list of what is needed to make this happen. May take truck as-is to Findlay, and off-road park, and Silver Lake sand dunes, so swap is not happening until after that. But I will get the engine cleaned up, trans married to it, and clutch pedal installed prior.
 

red

Active member
1,988
25
38
Location
Eagle Mountain/Utah
The physically smaller engine that you are using (compared to the Cummins 855 series) allows for the engine and trans to sit further forward, maybe giving you enough clearance to not have to move the tcase at all, won't really know for sure until you do the test fit. Looking forward to watching this project.

Agreed Grendel. All medium and heavy duty trucks have the same frame width of 34" since at least the 1960's. The frame height and thickness will vary but the width from outside to outside of the frame has been standardized for decades.
 

grendel

Member
536
12
18
Location
Derry, NH
We did it, (my father, brother and I) before we were on the internet. We ended up using a drop t-case from an Osh-Kosh cement mixer ( I think it's the same one in the 916), but we installed a Cummins BC4 and a 15 speed RR in an old M923 my nephew used to haul around an excavator. So I know it fits and works. This conversation's been happening via text for more than a year... Discoball needed to do research to put his flavor on the cake mix, but this is MDT/HDT legos. They all fit and it's all been done before, just not on this board.
 

74M35A2

Well-known member
4,145
330
83
Location
Livonia, MI
Pics or it didn't happen.

Yes, research is important. I'm not tearing the drivetrain out of my operating truck and then starting to look everything up. I don't like downtime. The ISL arrival actually pulled ahead the Roadranger install. Otherwise, I was only going to do it if/when the Allison failed.

We all agree it "should" fit between the frame rails. Bonus that I am using an a2 with a shorter engine to keep the trans forward more. Outstanding question will be front prop shaft clearance.
 
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