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7th Marines M1008

Curtisje

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Okinawa, Japan
I am rebuilding my USMC M1008 that I purchased a few years ago. It has enough paperwork with it to prove it started life in the US Army and was stolen by Marines during Desert Shield/Storm in Saudi Arabia. It was shipped back to the states by 1st Marine Division and then assigned to 7th Marine Regiment from 1991 through 1995 when it was auctioned off to the public.

I going from the frame up. I have a 6.5 Turbo Diesel and 4L80E out of a 2006 up armored HMMWV with only 3018 miles on it. All accessories intact. I'm keeping it 24 volt.

Here is a picture from when I picked it up in the spring of 2013.
DSC03228.JPG

Here is a pic from when I was driving it.
cucv.jpg

And if you ever wondered what a CUCV frame looked like if it was completely dismantled here it is today.
20200328_152610.jpg
 

dependable

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How are you going to fasten frame together again? Grade 8 bolts should be strong enough, but not sure if they will hold frame rigid.

One of mine had its rivets loosen up, probably due to heavy load over very uneven terrain. The frame now has some flex, which some of the rock crawlers like, but to me is a negative.
 

Curtisje

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I drilled out each rivet and replaced them with 1/2 inch frame bolts one at a time so that the frame geometry never changed. The 1/2 inch frame bolts will do quite well with a drop of red lock tite once I reassemble it all.

Here is a picture of the frame while I was drilling out the rivets and replacing with the frame bolts. You can see bolts in place of some of the rivets here.20190914_072952.jpg
 

Curtisje

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Okinawa, Japan
Well this ain't working out as planned. A 4 1/2 inch wire wheel, Simple Green and a scratch pad isn't doing the job in a timely manner. AND the hardware store is closed. One frame rail completed so far. Time to close shop and have a beer. At least I got the shop cleaned up.

20200329_135349.jpg
 

Curtisje

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Location
Okinawa, Japan
Well I couldn't give up that easy. I still washed everything really good. It will make it easier when I get the wire wheels in for my grinders.
20200329_161645.jpg20200329_161651.jpg20200329_161656.jpg20200329_161700.jpg
 

joshuak

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Slower shore, DE

Curtisje

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Location
Okinawa, Japan
37"s with no lift? Looking real good! 👍

Running a cowl hood to clear the center mount turbo? Besides drivetrain swap, any steering or suspension mods?

Red thread lock will probably do the trick, check out Nord-Lock washers as another option or to add redundancy.

https://www.nord-lock.com/nord-lock/products/washers/
The frame bolts have lock nuts and I already have plenty of lock tite in the garage.

I'll update with mods as I build.
 

cucvmule

collector of stuff
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Crystal City Mo
There is a youtube channel with Pakistani truck chassis repair that you would be amazed at what can be done with few tools and equipment.

Enjoy the rebuild of your truck Curtisje.
Lots of fun ahead.
 

Curtisje

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Location
Okinawa, Japan
Well not exactly the finish I was going for. I guess I will have to sand the primer before spraying the chassis black paint. At least I am only one piece into it.20200404_181517.jpg

In between sanding, priming and painting I fixed my shop air compressor regulator and adjusted the brakes on my 1947 CJ2A. I took it for a spin too.
 
Last edited:

ehuppert

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Location
Upstate NY
Strongly advise epoxy primer (w/hardener) I used kirker enduro prime (after frame and body bits/pieces were media blasted). Much tougher than spray bomb stuff. I then applied the Eastwood chassis paint!

Epoxy primer can be sprayed with a HF cheap gun....

If your going this far do it right!
 

Curtisje

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Okinawa, Japan
Strongly advise epoxy primer (w/hardener) I used kirker enduro prime (after frame and body bits/pieces were media blasted). Much tougher than spray bomb stuff. I then applied the Eastwood chassis paint!

Epoxy primer can be sprayed with a HF cheap gun....

If your going this far do it right!
Thanks. I ordered Eastwoods epoxy primer that they recommend for this paint. It won't be here for a week to 10 days. I didn't want to wait so I tried a piece with rustoleum primer. You saw the results. Now I will clean that piece off again and wait for the epoxy primer.
 

kubotaman

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What work is needed to make the center mount turbo clear on a CUCV? Everyone has different answers. Want to install one in my mostly stock CUCV with no lift.
 

ehuppert

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Location
Upstate NY
Probably too late as i saw cans of the chassis paint, but the two part is more durable than the spray bomb single part! I used the Extreme chassis w/ceramic and hardener.... Have to use spray gun but once again cheapy works...
 

Curtisje

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Location
Okinawa, Japan
Probably too late as i saw cans of the chassis paint, but the two part is more durable than the spray bomb single part! I used the Extreme chassis w/ceramic and hardener.... Have to use spray gun but once again cheapy works...
Yeah... They sell the 2 part ceramic in the can as well. $28 a can. I'm going to move forward with what I have once the epoxy primer gets here. If I see an obvious problem with how things are turning out I will load up everything and take it to a paint/body shop.
 

Curtisje

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
596
693
93
Location
Okinawa, Japan
What work is needed to make the center mount turbo clear on a CUCV? Everyone has different answers. Want to install one in my mostly stock CUCV with no lift.
I'll let you know when I start mounting the cab. I'll tackle that problem when I get to it. I'm expecting to move/massage the firewall.
 

Curtisje

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Location
Okinawa, Japan
Eastwoods Chassis Black paint instructions say it can be used without a primer so I cleaned up another piece and sprayed it. It looks better than the last piece.

20200405_133925.jpg20200405_133949.jpg

I'll wait for the Eastwood Primer to arrive and then I'll spray another and compare.
 
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