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7th Marines M1008

Rutjes

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Amersfoort, The Netherlands
You will definitely want to wait for the 2 part epoxy primer. I had mine coated in it as well, actually going to paint the whole truck with 2 part epoxy primer and paint. It'll be much harder when cured. I'd only use 1 part coating on areas you can easily reach in case you ever need to do a touch up.
 

Curtisje

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Location
Okinawa, Japan
I've primed and painted frame parts. I'm using the primer and paint in rattle can. So far so good. I'm in California so I can't get the ceramic chassis paint. That's fine, this is looking really good.

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Cleaned up ready to prime.

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Primed.

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Painted. Now 48hrs till I touch them again. About 3 more sessions and I will bolt the frame back together again.
 

Curtisje

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Location
Okinawa, Japan
I haven't done much on this project in a while. I've cleaned up and painted a few more parts. I found this crack on a rear spring hanger after removing all the dirt, grease and paint. It went all the way through. I welded both sides up.

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Curtisje

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Okinawa, Japan
The first coat of primer was rough. I went bavk to the instructions and made some adjustments. The second coat went on real nice.

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Curtisje

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Okinawa, Japan
I got the frame together. Every frame bolt has a lock nut, red loctite on it and they are torqued to 80 ft lbs. It is square and ready to get parts hung in it. I'll have to fab my own cross member under the 6.5 turbo and move the transfercase mount once I get the 6.5T & 4L80E set in there.

It was 73 and sunny here today. Hope everyone had a good weekend.

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Curtisje

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
574
654
93
Location
Okinawa, Japan
It's taking a little longer than expected to get all the right parts in and prepped for the suspension assembly. I have front and rear springs, rear shackles (currently priming & painting), and most of the bushings. The remaining bushings and a full set of greaseable 1/2 inch eye bolts with lock nuts are on the way.

I primed & painted the engine mount brackets and front spring upper shackle hangers, installed and torqued to specs with loctite.

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It's windy today so the garage door is only open a bit for some ventilation. I'll be frabricating my own front shackles out of 2 inch strap x 3/8 think x 5 inches long. 1 inch longer than stock to handle a little more movement with the 2 inch lift front springs. The rear springs are 4 inch lift with 6 inch shackles which will net me 2 inches of lift as well. I'll even it all out at the end of the build when it is fully weighted.

Have a great weekend.
 

Curtisje

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
574
654
93
Location
Okinawa, Japan
Leaf springs installed except for the shackle hangers in front. I have to shave 1/4 inch from each side of the frame hanger in order to fit the 9/16 wet bolts and bushings. The OEM bushing and bolt is 1/2. I'm making it 9/16 all around.
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I got all the bushings and bolts from ORD as well as the HD rear shackles. I had to grind off all the excess of the bolt on the hanger in order for it to clear the frame bolts and shackle hangers when the suspension flexes.
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I had to do that with the front of the spring on the floor and pulled forward to lower the shackle as far as possible to clear the frame and give me enough room for the 4 1/2 grinder with 80 grit flap disk.

I also used Permatex Orange Threadlocker on the wet bolt lock nuts. The same locknuts on my M1028 keep backing off.

Have a great weekend.
 

Curtisje

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
574
654
93
Location
Okinawa, Japan
I'm tearing down the front axle so that I can install an Ox locker and uograde to 35 spline outer shafts. I'll rebuild most of the axle save the items I had replaced recently when I was driving it. No need to replace bearings that have less than 10k on them if they are still good. Same with the rotors and such. I will clean it all up and put a fresh coat of paint on it.
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Curtisje

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
574
654
93
Location
Okinawa, Japan
ORD Motor mounts installed. I cut a hmmwv starter bracket and welded it to the passenger side motor mount so that's taken care of.

I will start to fab a crossmember now. I may have a friend over this afternoon to mount the engine in the frame.

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Curtisje

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
574
654
93
Location
Okinawa, Japan
I started fabricating the crossmember that goes under the front of the engine.

(2) 8 inch pieces of 2x3 angle iron.
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I cut 1 1/2 inch off the 2 inch side.
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I drilled out bolt holes aligned with existing holes in the frame. 3 on the passenger side. 2 on the drivers. I drilled a 3rd on the drivers side for good measure.
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I'm welding up the rest with 2 inch square.
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Curtisje

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
574
654
93
Location
Okinawa, Japan
Major accomplishment today. The crossmember is installed and the motor/tranny is mounted. Tight fit as expected. I will have to get a civy engine oil dipstick and tube.

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Have a great weekend.
 

Curtisje

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
574
654
93
Location
Okinawa, Japan
Starter is resting on the lower frame rail. Problem solved, problem staying solved.


Mark frame.
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Cut frame.
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De-bur, sand and paint frame.
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I will weld/bolt in a piece to strengthen this section at a later date.
 
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