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7th times the charm?

74M35A2

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There are a few different ways to check and adjust injector timing. None of which require to pull the front cover. There is pin, spill port, and dial indicator methods of checking and changing injector timing. Timing advance is typically setup in the pump, of which then the pump mark is aligned through the pump sight window, and the engine brought to TDC via the push pin on the back side of the gear case. This should give the stock setting. Install timing degree tape or make it yourself, and then pull the injection gear off through the tach adapter housing access port, back the engine up, and retighten the pump gear. Spill port involves removing the #1 injection line and delivery valve, and pressurizing the fuel inlet port, while turning the engine over.

The MTVR HVAC box would mount in place of your stock factory heater core box underhood. At least one or several here have done it, and it seemed to fit well. Essentially the same as adding an A/C evaporator core to the stock heater core box. I'm not sure why nobody has tried that yet actually, as there is a ton of empty room in that box. Cut in a drain, and away you go. Would probably need to re-route either the floor or defrost ducts to discharge vents on the dash panel facing the occupants in order for it to be somewhat effective.
 

74M35A2

Well-known member
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Location
Livonia, MI
I have seen the MTVR box installed where the stock heater core box is. Inside would be better as then it can recirculate cold air vs always heating hot outside air.

The timing can be set to any amount desired since you pull the drive gear to do so regardless. If one want the timing advanced in the pump so you can jut align mark and go, then that is internal to the pump, and the pump need to be pulled and send to a shop with a pump flow bench for this adjustment to be made. I was quoted about $130 to have such done. Then you just align marks and reinstall it, not having anything to do with the balancer or timing tape.
 

Csm Davis

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Hattiesburg, Mississippi
Discoball's celebrating Halloween with orange text... should add some black in there. :)

I'd prefer to advance all timing, which requires getting to the gears. That's what we did. Playing gears through the itty bitty window is not my idea of fun.

Install the HVAC box outside and you lose capability and engine bay room. Mine is going inside. Horns on the roof.
If you advance it using the gears are you advancing the cam also?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

74M35A2

Well-known member
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332
83
Location
Livonia, MI
Injection timing check and adjustment has nothing to do with pulling the front gear cover. Any timing adjustment can be made by pulling the injection pump gear loose off the pump shaft via the access port which the tach adapter is threaded onto.

If you were resealing the front cover anyway, then sure, why not, that is OK too, but not required.


There is no multiple numbers. There is the advance timing the engine came with which is built into the pump, stamped on the engine ID tag, and runs as intended, and then there would be the new value if advanced even further, possible of changing via 2 different ways: (1) Advance the internal pump timing even further by having it sent to a shop with a pump flow bench (say from 8 to 16 degrees) and then install it per proper timing mark on pump window and gear case back side push pin, or (2) just install the stock 8 degree advanced pump an additional 8 degrees advanced before TDC (instead of at TDC like originally intended), which would then set it for 16 degrees of advance injection timing, vs 8 degrees.

It was goofy for me to wrap my head around it also until I studied it for a few hours to fully understand it.

simp, don't go near a running 8.3, you may injure yourself, especially if you have a long tie on and the gear case cover is off as pictured above.
 
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