7th times the charm?

[grendel]

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[davo727]

Whenever I try and read pirate anymore it always locks up my computer due to the ads or spam or whatever

Granted, I think a 10 lug slip fit rotor is out there somewhere.

With big wheels, we don't need small brakes. My friend Patoyee's been doing this for years on all sorts of Rockwells:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/944694-free-rockwell-wheel-brake-recipe-rims-smaller-than-20-patooyees-parts.html

 

[grendel]

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[grendel]

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[grendel]

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[74M35A2]

Disco Ball. Knarly. Maybe I'll change my handle to that. Your mom liked it.

Scrap 2 of those batteries and buy another jack stand. That looks like a nice one.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Disco Ball. Knarly. Maybe I'll change my handle to that. Your mom liked it.

Scrap 2 of those batteries and buy another jack stand. That looks like a nice one.

Disco Clint in
3

2

1

 

[grendel]

Disco Ball. Knarly. Maybe I'll change my handle to that. Your mom liked it.

Scrap 2 of those batteries and buy another jack stand. That looks like a nice one.

You know, I never thought you'd admit to the one testicle thing. That's brave, outing yourself like that.

I have four of those jack stands. They work well for assembling frames.

 

[grendel]

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[74M35A2]

Put 3 more batteries and 7 more alternators on it, and you can probably drive in the hybrid lane.

 

[grendel]

Put 3 more batteries and 7 more alternators on it, and you can probably drive in the hybrid lane.

Discoball sounds a little jelly.

He should buy jack stands:

https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/NLE7915250/NLE7915250

 

[gimpyrobb]

I have some of those! They are nice when you need to pull a front axle from under your deuce to swap out the 3rd member.

 

[grendel]

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[gimpyrobb]

I have one of those too, just not as much fun.

 

[grendel]

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[grendel]

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[grendel]

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[Jbulach]

Like I said, a little bit of time on this, so did the alternator, starter and tidied up the battery relocation. Sad to take out good working stuff, but I think I dropped a few hundred pounds.


..View attachment 640702View attachment 640703View attachment 640705View attachment 640706View attachment 640704

My boys are chasing down the LED headlight not having high beam on the driver's side... a nice little lesson on taking your time when you install something.

I also orders some heavy copper to build a bus bar for the batteries in their new home. Everything works, now it's time to make it purdy.

Also looks like I need a new volt meter, as it's reading yellow, even though the batteries are getting 26v at idle. The new alternator is a monster. I also had to use the right bracket, so while that was off, we installed the AC bracket.

MRAP seats and harness' tomorrow.

Took it for a road test, the front axle is not disengaging and the rear locker does not like any power... I also do not like the feel of the rear brakes. S-cam are on the way.

You might ask 74m about correct voltage before you buy a new gauge. This is mine about 30 seconds after start up, throttle was never touched.

Holding steady now at 26.82 after several minutes. Holds steady throttling up to 1800 RPM, voltmeter still just barely in the green.

 

[74M35A2]

Wow, nice alternator! That's a 130 amp unit. Cute starter too. What's up with the winch cable? Drum only goes one way? This is why I want a control out front also, so it can be wound back up with a single operator.

That alternator has a temperature compensated voltage regulator inside of it. It increases system voltage 0.1v for every 10C of temp drop. This is due to reduced chance of battery electrolyte boiling at lower temps, and vice-vera going hotter. The dash gauge was deigned for older fixed setpoint voltage regulators. The main point here is when using such a combination of old/new, it is OK, but the important thing to observe is that the system voltage is higher with the engine running than with the engine off. They are so reliable, it is probably just better to put an EGT or boost gauge in its place and be done with it. The volt gauge will read higher in the winter than the summer, and same with hot vs cold engine.

 

[Jbulach]

Wow, nice alternator! That's a 130 amp unit. Cute starter too. What's up with the winch cable? Drum only goes one way? This is why I want a control out front also, so it can be wound back up with a single operator.

That alternator has a temperature compensated voltage regulator inside of it. It increases system voltage 0.1v for every 10C of temp drop. This is due to reduced chance of battery electrolyte boiling at lower temps, and vice-vera going hotter. The dash gauge was deigned for older fixed setpoint voltage regulators. The main point here is when using such a combination of old/new, it is OK, but the important thing to observe is that the system voltage is higher with the engine running than with the engine off. They are so reliable, it is probably just better to put an EGT or boost gauge in its place and be done with it. The volt gauge will read higher in the winter than the summer, and same with hot vs cold engine.

So I'm assuming my stock military alternator is fixed voltage? I was thinking 26.8 was a little low if it is fixed voltage? It's already 90° here and I did not run the old enough to get any real heat off the engine.