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803 Bogs Down and dies at 85% Load

U

USAMilRet

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Nothing wrong with my batteries. They are brand new and crank the engine just fine. This is not a battery issue.

From the tm:

With the cranking relay energized, power passes from the batteries through closed contacts of the crank-ing relay to energize the solenoid and the pulling coil of the fuel solenoid. With the solenoid energized, power passes fromthe batteries through closed contacts of the solenoid to the cranking motor. The cranking motor then cranks the engine.As the engine accelerates to approximately 900 rpm, the magnetic pickup, which senses engine speed, causes the crankdisconnect switch to break the circuit to the coil of the crank disconnect relay and close the contacts of the field flash relay.When the MASTER SWITCH is moved to one of the RUN positions, both starting control circuits are deenergized whilethe instrument and other control circuits remain energized. The fuel solenoid holding coil remains energized.

1-12.8.1.3 The engine may be cranked without starting by use of the DEAD CRANK switch. With the DEAD CRANKswitch in the CRANK position, the cranking relay coil is energized to initiate engine cranking without energizing any otherstarting or control function.

So if K14 is not the issue, cranking relay or are they the same?

Need a friggin real schematic of the wiring.
 
U

USAMilRet

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The troubleshooting guide is of no help. It does not address the circuitry of the solenoid circuit.

From the tm:
2-95 FUEL SOLENOID.2-95.1a.b.c.d.e.f.g.h.i.j.2-95.2a.b.c.d.Testing.Open left side engine access door and disconnect negative battery cable.Measure from fuel solenoid housing (17, FIGURE 2-25) to nut (18) and note measurement.Tag, disconnect, and insulate wire 113B from starter solenoid and connect negative battery cable.Move generator set MASTER SWITCH to START position and observe that fuel solenoid linkage retracts.Release MASTER SWITCH to RUN position, ensure fuel solenoid linkage remains retracted, and measurefrom solenoid housing (17) to nut (18) again. Difference in measurement from step b should be 1 in. (2.54 cm).Position MASTER SWITCH to OFF.Repeat test several times to ensure proper performance of solenoid.If fuel solenoid does not travel its full 1 in, (2.54 cm), the solenoid is defective and must be replaced.Disconnect negative battery cable and connect wire 113B to starter solenoid.Connect negative battery cable and close access door.
 
K

kloppk

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The "schematic" in the TM does not depict how connections between various points are made, just that they are electrically connected.
The details on exactly how the connections are made are contained in the 5 pages after the schematic.
Takes a bit to draw up exactly how connections are made for different circuits because they at times go thru terminal blocks, jumpers, connectors, etc.
The solenoid is shown on the 4th page after the schematic.
L5A.JPG
L5 is connected to P14/J14. From there the wires go to TB4-12, P6-37, TB4-10.
You then have to go to those drawings of those components on the 5 pages and keep piecing it together to determine exactly how it's wired.
 
U

USAMilRet

Member
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Location
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kloppk said:
The "schematic" in the TM does not depict how connections between various points are made, just that they are electrically connected.
The details on exactly how the connections are made are contained in the 5 pages after the schematic.
Takes a bit to draw up exactly how connections are made for different circuits because they at times go thru terminal blocks, jumpers, connectors, etc.
The solenoid is shown on the 4th page after the schematic.
View attachment 741138
L5 is connected to P14/J14. From there the wires go to TB4-12, P6-37, TB4-10.
You then have to go to those drawings of those components on the 5 pages and keep piecing it together to determine exactly how it's wired.
Click to expand...
How sure are you on the drawing? Could have sworn that 100D16 was the pull wire on pin 2.
 
K

kloppk

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My drawing in my earlier post was from the 802A manual.

Here it is from the 803 manual TM 9-6115-642-24 dated 1 September 1993

L5B.JPG


According to the TM the Pull wire from pin 2 of the P14/J14 connection is wire 183A.
From there wire 183A should go to P6-37.
From J6-37 wire 183B should go to K16-7.

The "5 pages" are PDF pages 277 thru 281 from TM 9-6115-642-24 dated 1 September 1993.

All this assumes the TM is correct.
 
Last edited:
DieselAddict

DieselAddict

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Have you checked the voltage between terminal C on L5 and the negative battery terminal when the HOLD circuit is active?
 
Guyfang

Guyfang

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USAMilRet said:
How sure are you on the drawing? Could have sworn that 100D16 was the pull wire on pin 2.
Click to expand...
There is no mistake in the schematic.

It helps if you diagram it out. Take paper and pen. Write each connection down, wire number and were it goes to and from. Start at the L5 and work back. Easy. I have it just about compleat at home, but at the moment, am prevented from going home until at least next week.

i sent a draft copy to one of you guys, but can't remember who. Very hard to concentrate right now.
 
U

USAMilRet

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Saw that the drawing is correct from the schematics I found in the TM. Found a broken wire at the 'pull' pin on J14. Due to the ties, it was held in the J14 so it looked connected. As soon as I cut a wire tie to get a better look at the wires, the center wire came out of the J14 with no pin attached. Will fix this and suspect it will resolve the problem. Will report back.

I need a cleaner copy on the 6 pages of schematics/wire connections as the ones in the pdf are barely readable.
 
U

USAMilRet

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Partial success. The fuel solenoid felay issue is solved by repairing the pull pin connection. I was able to save the pin and reconnect the wire. Now I bet my original is still good....

The engine does not sound right. There is no marble sound like in other diesels but there is a ploop ploop ploop sound. At the air intake at the Gen end you can tell there is something wrong. I am going to have to pull the cover again to get to the valve covers to see what is going on. There were no issues turning the engine manually before restart after rebuild. It cranks fine......

What does a bad metering pump or injector sound like?
 
J

jamawieb

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Sounds like a valve problem with the plop, plop, noise you're hearing. Usually with a bad pump or injector, it wont get up to speed (not enough fuel) or will smoke terribly (to much fuel).
 
Guyfang

Guyfang

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USAMilRet said:
Saw that the drawing is correct from the schematics I found in the TM. Found a broken wire at the 'pull' pin on J14. Due to the ties, it was held in the J14 so it looked connected. As soon as I cut a wire tie to get a better look at the wires, the center wire came out of the J14 with no pin attached. Will fix this and suspect it will resolve the problem. Will report back.

I need a cleaner copy on the 6 pages of schematics/wire connections as the ones in the pdf are barely readable.
Click to expand...
like I said, we, (Dieseladdict) and a few other folks are working the issue of schematics. He is in a land far, far away. I am in a hospital. Don't get your panties in a wad. We all have been using the same schematic you are, and getting by. There is no other place to get a clean copy.
 
U

USAMilRet

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I wanted to upload a video but I got hammerred by lightning yesterday. It took out my cable modem, both of my wireless routers, killed 5 voltage transformers, killed the TV, killed the surround sound system, killed my wifes work computer, a ceiling fan, and popped a single circuit breakers and also took my ATT Micro Cell tower. So I have no outside connection to the world except through cell towers (max 1 bar with very very little data transfer - hence the Micro Cell Tower). Also took out several GFCI outlets. Suspect a lightning hit to the enderground cable system and/or an EMP that killed the circuitry in the electronic components. Other items on the same circuit were not damaged including my $4K brand new computer that I built. However I can not be sure of the internet/lan connection until I get the network up and running again. Motherboard LAN connection might be fried as well.

Thing is is that all these items were on the west side of the house in almost a half moon pattern of destruction.

When I reset the breaker, there was a spark so I have to check this out as well.

Ordered new replacements for the cable modem and networks. Will have to figure out the rest as I go along. The TV is my sons brand new Samsung unit purchased 1 week ago. Now the TV and SS system are in two different rooms on seperate circuits. But none of the transformers near the SS sysrem were fried.

The transformers are those small AC to DC units for modems, lans, micro cell power, etc....
 
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