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818 question

rizzo

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has anyone pulled a civy semi trailer with an 818? what did you have to change? and how did you do it? I'm assuming lights are the only thing
 

jwaller

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ya. how about this.


but I bet you mean semi trailers. I dont do anything. back under hook up and go. If I'm feeling good I'm take my wrecker bar lights and strap them on the back. pull the hand brake as I begin to move to check the trailer brakes and I'm off and rolling.
 

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jwaller

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Re: RE: 818 question

rizzo said:
how does it pull with the big tires?

I want to put 1600's on mine
pulls fine with the truck only. pull anything over 6klbs and it gets really slow in a hurry.

I can still haul 68mph on flat terrain with a 45k load but any hills will bring it to a crawl quickly
 

ARMYMAN30YearsPlus

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RE: Re: RE: 818 question

I think you are right about the lights being the major issue. Everything else should hook up fine it would be a slow go with a 53' van at max load and you may in fact exceed the rating of the truck with many of the newer trailers being hauled by 500 to 600 horsepower Kenworths and Peterbuilts.
 

jwaller

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RE: Re: RE: 818 question

ya a 818 tops out on the data plate at 44k so you wont be able to pull 70 or 80k like the big boys do but it sure will look good. I have another load of tires in a 28' box trailer to move tomorrow. I'll try and get some pics. it weights in at 30k lbs plus my 818 weights 22k by itself.
 

kinetichotshot

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OK, So what I'm reading here is that the GCVWR (gross combination vehicle weight rating) on the 5-ton tractor is 44klbs?!? The GCVWR on my little truck and trailer is 50Klbs!!! something just doesn't look right to me.... I have seen on here that the engines aren't overly powerful and maybe that is the reason for the lowered weight? Looking at these tractors, springs, axles, etc I would imagine that they should be able to handle a Gross of 80k just like the big trucks... I guess I will have to do some more research, but some input here would be nice..
Laterz,
Gator
>|--|~
 

TheBuggyman

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I don't know if I am off base here, but I believe that the root of the question is the compatibility of the military air/hydraulic braking system to the civilian full air braking system. Will the military system work with a civilian system? Does the emergency air serve the purpose of releasing the spring lock on a civi trailer and then the service side will apply the brakes as needed?
 
TheBuggyman said:
I don't know if I am off base here, but I believe that the root of the question is the compatibility of the military air/hydraulic braking system to the civilian full air braking system. Will the military system work with a civilian system? Does the emergency air serve the purpose of releasing the spring lock on a civi trailer and then the service side will apply the brakes as needed?
everything works but the lights. and even they will work if you can hook them up. just not very long.
 

TheBuggyman

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DaveP said:
TheBuggyman said:
I don't know if I am off base here, but I believe that the root of the question is the compatibility of the military air/hydraulic braking system to the civilian full air braking system. Will the military system work with a civilian system? Does the emergency air serve the purpose of releasing the spring lock on a civi trailer and then the service side will apply the brakes as needed?
everything works but the lights. and even they will work if you can hook them up. just not very long.
Roger that.

No mystery no mo'! 8)
 

rizzo

Active member
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Port Huron, MI
DaveP said:
TheBuggyman said:
I don't know if I am off base here, but I believe that the root of the question is the compatibility of the military air/hydraulic braking system to the civilian full air braking system. Will the military system work with a civilian system? Does the emergency air serve the purpose of releasing the spring lock on a civi trailer and then the service side will apply the brakes as needed?
everything works but the lights. and even they will work if you can hook them up. just not very long.
I'm pretty sure I have LED's on the trailer.

I want to pull a modern dropdeck with it. 10k for the trailer and about 25k on the deck
 

amanco

New member
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Marion, oHIo
I believe LED's don't care if it is 12 or 24 volts. Also I can't believe no one commented on that link above. All sorts of 24 to 12 volt converters. It seems like there is some one on here asking about hooking up 12 volt items every couple of weeks. May be a good source for a converter.

http://www.secamerica.com/model_360.html
 

Rattlehead

Member
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Location
Michigan
LED's DO care about voltage, unless the assembly is designed for multi voltage use. Be sure they are rated for a 24 volt system if you go the LED route.
 

kinetichotshot

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Actually how the LED's on most of our trucks work (basically) is the running lights have a resistor on them and when you apply brake/turn lights they get the full voltage thus allowing different intensities of light for tail/stop/turn. That would lead me to believe that (as long as the LED's could handle 24v) you would just have really bright running lights and even brighter stop/turn lamps, as long as you don't over power the LED's maximum capacity that is... Now you all have me curious... I might have to go see how much voltage it takes to blow one of my spare LED lights now.... there goes another couple of bucks!
Laterz,
Gator
>|--|~
 

Rattlehead

Member
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Location
Michigan
An LED (as in a single LED unit) is designed to drop a fixed voltage across it. The ones I have played with are typically 3v +- a couple tenths. However they can be run in series as well. But whatever voltage is left has to be dissipated by a resistor, unless you have an accurate DC power supply feeding them, which is what they may do inside a multi-voltage lamp assembly.

The LED is designed to carry a max amount of current, your typical hobby type ones like to run around 20 milliamps (0.02 amps). So you could use ohm's law to determine how much current will go through them. Amps = volts/resistance.

So in this example, a 12v supply, with a 600 ohm resistor, will give the circuit 20 mA. If you increase the voltage to 24v, with the same resistor, you just doubled the current to 40 mA. The LED will drop the same voltage in either way, but the resistor will be required to drop the rest of it.

Something not considered here is that the voltage in a vehicle will not be an exact 12v or 24v, but can go up to 14.5v, or 29v when charging. That little bit of voltage change in the above example would put 24 or 48 mA through the circuit.
 

timntrucks

Well-known member
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Ponchatoula LA
i liked the site on lights and i seen cables might be a place to get a long cable to use on auxilary lights like the light bar ?
 

rizzo

Active member
2,841
8
38
Location
Port Huron, MI
I like that link for the converters

I have a light bar with LED's that I use. The lights i bought for it are rated for 36 or 48, I can't remember now, but we checked at the time.
 
rizzo, if your planning to run the 16's you will not like the performance on the road. my 819 is less than 38,000 and empty its a dog on hills. i put 20,000 on the hook and i liked it even less. empty i guess it's not that bad but im used to a little more horse. it will get 12-00's as soon as there availibility lines up with a pile of cash. also still have the 335 cummins to raise the hp a little. as for off road the 16.00 20's do very well. mine are the ZXL's. they do well in all that i have put them in. one more thing, the 5th wheel height?
 

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