86' M1008 - Contemplating Chevy 350 engine swap

[Commander5993]

Couple more questions:

What is the general thought line on using Copper Spray-A-Gasket Hi-Temp Adhesive Sealant?? Especially since I'm not having the block resurfaced? I'm going to clean the block surface very carefully with Shop 3M Roloc Discs. After of course stuffing rags down into all the passages and cylinders. Should the Copper Spray be used on: Head gaskets? Intake? And exhaust gaskets? I know a lot of guys used to use it on every gasket they installed. It still seems to be recommended by a lot of people today, even on many newer engines.


Also something else I just thought about... this is a 6.2L block, and I'm installing 6.5L heads... would the 6.2L gaskets (Fel-Pro 8726 PT) be correct? Or should have I gotten the 6.5L gaskets (Fel-Pro 9701 PT) ?? As far as looking at photos of them, they are nearly identical, except the 6.2L gasket has 4 rounded corners, and the 6.5L gasket has 3 rounded corners and 1 square corner. And in the square corner there is a small hole present in the 6.5L gasket, where the 6.2L gasket does not have a hole in that spot. Other than that all other holes and spacing seem to be exactly the same. However, thickness, what it is made of, etc... I do not know about or if any of that would make a difference or ??

 

[Commander5993]

If you have a oriely auto parts near by get you a MR Gasket #4367 thermostat. About $17. It's a high flow balanced sleeve type just like the stock one from the factory, but it's a 180deg. Or if you have a international harvester tractor dealer near by you can get the Robert Shaw 370-180 thermostat from them. The AC Delco thermostat has a much smaller hole, and flows a lot less. You might still overheat when working the engine under a load because you will be restricting the flow even when the thermostat is wide open.
Yes I have used the cut off bolt trick myself it works pretty well. Just like rusty said, cut a slot in the end with a hack saw, so you can remove them with a flat head screw driver. This also has worked well for me installing engines to transmissions.

Thanks for the info Ken
I'm looking into this. I thought the AC Delco 12TP5D that I just got in was supposed to be a "High Flow" design, as there was two different models listed. But now going back, I can't find where it said that.... So a different one might be better.
However I looked up the MR Gasket #4367 that you mentioned, and it doesn't seem to have very good reviews. Several people mentioned of it stop working while closed, one after only a few hours, another after 1400 miles.

There isn't a Fail Safe brand that would be a 180 high flow is there?? I'll try to find out later today.

 

[ken]

About the thermostat, I can say I have three 6.2's currently running the MR Gasket thermostat. I have had zero problems with them. As with any mass produced part I assume there will be bad units. I can understand your concern as you rely on this truck a lot. You can order the rear Robert Shaw part from IH parts America for $17. They are the real deal. I have one in my M1028A1 with a 6.5. It too woks with no problems. As far as the gaskets go. I would wait until your heads arrive then compare them to the 6.2 heads to see what gasket would be best. Just incase you have a variation from the norm.

 

[Commander5993]

If you have a oriely auto parts near by get you a MR Gasket #4367 thermostat. About $17. It's a high flow balanced sleeve type just like the stock one from the factory, but it's a 180deg. Or if you have a international harvester tractor dealer near by you can get the Robert Shaw 370-180 thermostat from them. The AC Delco thermostat has a much smaller hole, and flows a lot less. You might still overheat when working the engine under a load because you will be restricting the flow even when the thermostat is wide open.

Yes I have used the cut off bolt trick myself it works pretty well. Just like rusty said, cut a slot in the end with a hack saw, so you can remove them with a flat head screw driver. This also has worked well for me installing engines to transmissions.

Ok, well I did find out the ACDelco 12TP5D is a "high flow" t-stat, that is verses the OE.
I got it in already, still might do some more research into the MR Gasket you listed.

Yeah, I'll try the headbolt "trick", seems like it would help.

 

[Commander5993]

Is there a good location on the engine to add a oil pressure sending unit and temperature sending unit, in order to add Actual Gauges inside the cab instead of just relying on the idiot lights??

 

[rustystud]

Couple more questions:

What is the general thought line on using Copper Spray-A-Gasket Hi-Temp Adhesive Sealant?? Especially since I'm not having the block resurfaced? I'm going to clean the block surface very carefully with Shop 3M Roloc Discs. After of course stuffing rags down into all the passages and cylinders. Should the Copper Spray be used on: Head gaskets? Intake? And exhaust gaskets? I know a lot of guys used to use it on every gasket they installed. It still seems to be recommended by a lot of people today, even on many newer engines.


Also something else I just thought about... this is a 6.2L block, and I'm installing 6.5L heads... would the 6.2L gaskets (Fel-Pro 8726 PT) be correct? Or should have I gotten the 6.5L gaskets (Fel-Pro 9701 PT) ?? As far as looking at photos of them, they are nearly identical, except the 6.2L gasket has 4 rounded corners, and the 6.5L gasket has 3 rounded corners and 1 square corner. And in the square corner there is a small hole present in the 6.5L gasket, where the 6.2L gasket does not have a hole in that spot. Other than that all other holes and spacing seem to be exactly the same. However, thickness, what it is made of, etc... I do not know about or if any of that would make a difference or ??

I forgot to answer your earlier question about "copper-spray a gasket" . I wound not use it if you go with some good "Perma-torque Fel-Pro" head gaskets. Now if your using some cheap gaskets or plain "steel" gaskets then yes I would use it.

 

[ken]

At the back of the block by the drivers side head is the oil pressure sending unit for the idiot light. You can put a tee there and keep the light if you like. Also there is a 1/8 NPT port right by where the oil cooler lines are above the oil filter. A 1/4 drive ratchet will remove the plug.
You can use the 3/8 port at the front of the drivers side head for the water temp gauge. The Idiot light sensor is there. But under a good load you will get a false reading here. This port is very close to the exhaust valve, chamber for the exhaust to get out to the manifold. The water can get hot here with out the engine over heating. I found this out only when towing my tractor. I don't know how heavy you load your truck. Normal driving you will not see a difference.

 

[Commander5993]

I forgot to answer your earlier question about "copper-spray a gasket" . I wound not use it if you go with some good "Perma-torque Fel-Pro" head gaskets. Now if your using some cheap gaskets or plain "steel" gaskets then yes I would use it.

Appreciate the advice Rusty .
And Yes I have the Fel-Pro Perma-Torque head gaskets, so I won't use it on them then.

 

[Commander5993]

At the back of the block by the drivers side head is the oil pressure sending unit for the idiot light. You can put a tee there and keep the light if you like. Also there is a 1/8 NPT port right by where the oil cooler lines are above the oil filter. A 1/4 drive ratchet will remove the plug.
You can use the 3/8 port at the front of the drivers side head for the water temp gauge. The Idiot light sensor is there. But under a good load you will get a false reading here. This port is very close to the exhaust valve, chamber for the exhaust to get out to the manifold. The water can get hot here with out the engine over heating. I found this out only when towing my tractor. I don't know how heavy you load your truck. Normal driving you will not see a difference.

Thanks for the info Ken
I don't have any gauges yet, but I have been looking at some.
I plan on adding at least oil pressure and water temp, as I have always been weary of just the idiot lights ever since we got this truck. I should have added them back then, but no time like the present I guess.

 

[Commander5993]

Ok... this might be a dumb question... but why on earth does the TM list the head bolts ("cap screws" ) torque specs at: 1st round 20lbs - 2nd round 50lbs - 3rd round 1/4 Turn! What??!!

I've never seen a head bolt that wasn't specifically torqued to a predetermined spec. "1/4 Turn" is to general, the bolts wont be even pressure across the head.

I searched SS and found an older thread where someone was asking the same thing. They decided to do a "1/4 turn" on the first bolt, use their torque wrench to find out what torque spec that it was set at. Then they set all the other head bolts to that same spec. Wouldn't that be better??

Whats the current consensus on this?

 

[The FLU farm]

I'd use whatever the regular GM manual calls for. Sorry, but I don't have it handy or I'd post the number(s).

 

[Commander5993]

I'd use whatever the regular GM manual calls for. Sorry, but I don't have it handy or I'd post the number(s).

hadn't thought of that, I'll look it up

 

[Commander5993]

GM torque spec that I found on another site:
Cylinder Head (3 steps) 20 / 50 / +90 degrees......

 

[The FLU farm]

Well, I'll be dipped. According to the Chevy manual it is indeed supposed to be 20, 50, and then 90 degrees. I'd rig up a degree wheel of some kind, camshaft style, to ensure that it ends up being 90 degrees.
Anyway, you're far from the first one to forget that we're dealing with a basic GM vehicle, which happens to have an unusual electrical system.

 

[Commander5993]

If you have a oriely auto parts near by get you a MR Gasket #4367 thermostat. About $17. It's a high flow balanced sleeve type just like the stock one from the factory, but it's a 180deg. Or if you have a international harvester tractor dealer near by you can get the Robert Shaw 370-180 thermostat from them. The AC Delco thermostat has a much smaller hole, and flows a lot less. You might still overheat when working the engine under a load because you will be restricting the flow even when the thermostat is wide open.
Yes I have used the cut off bolt trick myself it works pretty well. Just like rusty said, cut a slot in the end with a hack saw, so you can remove them with a flat head screw driver. This also has worked well for me installing engines to transmissions.

I finally took my thermostat housing apart today, found an ac delco 14077122, which is a highflow... but either 190 or 195 degrees... depending on which website you look it up on.
I found and ordered the Robert Shaw 370-180 that you suggested, seems a lot of people use it in older vehicles. I think it will be a better replacement than the mr gasket, just going by the many reviews. I know you said you haven't had any trouble with them, but it seems only a few people have gotten a mr gasket #4367, that worked for more than a few days.
Anyway, Thanks again for the info Ken

 

[Commander5993]

Question: the "vacuum modulator" (I think its called) which is the gear driven device that goes into the block behind the intake manifold, which I think can be adjusted to change your shift points...
It has one intake port connection for a hose... But that port has a vacuum cap on it (but the cap was split so it was still sucking air).

Is this port supposed to be capped/sealed?
Or should there be a line connected to it?

 

[ken]

That is the vacume pump. You can rotate it any where you like but it is not adjustable. Your adjustment for the shift points is done with the valve mounted on the passenger side if the Injector Pump. The line from the pump should go to the I P Valve. Then down to the transmission.

 

[Commander5993]

deleted double post...

 

[Commander5993]

That is the vacume pump. You can rotate it any where you like but it is not adjustable. Your adjustment for the shift points is done with the valve mounted on the passenger side if the Injector Pump. The line from the pump should go to the I P Valve. Then down to the transmission.

ok, well if I have to adjust the shift points, I know how to do that now.
So the line from the vacuum pump should be connected to the IP valve? Then down the transmission?

The inlet connection on this vacuum pump was capped... nothing was connected to it
It seems to work though, just turned it by hand and there is vacuum/suction.

 

[ken]

Yes, This pump provides vacume for the transmission modulator. Since the 6.2 has no throttle valve like a gas engine there is almost no vacume in the intake manifold. This pump provides the vacume and is piped into the valve on the IP then down to the vacume modulator on the passenger side of the transmission. Just above the trans oil pan. It's a round canaster about 1 1/14 inch in dia. You rotate the valve on the IP eather forward tward the rad, or backward tward the cab. This will adjust your shift points to your preference. I adjust mine to shift around 2300 PRM's to keep the engine in it's max tourque range. Any higher than that and my truck does not pull heavy loads as well. Too high and it over revs and looses power. Too low and it boggs down and struggles to accelerate. Adjust yours to your loads and driving style.