A/C compressor driven by electric motor?

[EXITNOONE]

ZOUT- thanks for the link

M35TOM- is your compressor hooked up and running with a functioning system ??
not seeing any hoses or belts on it.

i noticed a lot of guys were buying a "retrofit" ac kit from member DILVOY but i have yet to see anyone finish the install and get it running.

 

[zout]

M35Tom - great pics and install. I just did not have the luxury to have the front end off the unit - nor did I want to disassembly everythng. Which still - your install works just as well.

With the compressor operational as far as a solid mount - belts aligned - drier installed and heater/ac box installed all that remains on the install of the retrofit kits (that Dinger65 bought from the aforementined individual) is the condensor - lines - wiring.

As far as operational - unless the entire system is crap as far as components - it will operate - but it sure does not look like they are as these are some quality pieces. Almost all ac components are made by a handfull of mfg's and stamp other folks name on them.

Bring a gallon of Crown over when these pieces come in and I have them installed and watch er work.

 

[phil2968]

why complicate things? there is plenty of room for a compressor.

I am going to put ac in the box before I put it in the cab. I wanted to electric drive the ac compressor so I would have ac in the box when we are in a campground. An engine mounted compressor does not give that option.

I have given up on that idea and am going with a RV roof air for simplicity. I will one day put some in the cab with a engine driven comp.

 

[zout]

Mine has the Dometic sealed rv system on the roof of the box - I need no sissyfied ac in the cab - Dinger65 is going to freeze his bahoogies off when I am done with this - cause I might need ice where where are going and he would make a pretty good size frozen fella

 

[TexAndy]

ok, I realize this is slightly off topic...

The evaporator coil on my 2001 chrysler concorde is leaking. So it'll go a good 10 days or so and then need more refrigerant. The real BUMMER is that in order to replace the evap coil, the ENTIRE DASH has to come out. That's like 9 hours of labor right there. aka $600 of labor to replace a $100 part on a car that's probably only worth $500. The math part is pretty clear about how dumb it would be for me to pay someone to pull the dash, replace the coil, and put the dash back in.

So what I was thinking was maybe I'd go ahead and buy my deuce evaporator/blower box now... and install it in the chrysler! All I'd have to do is disconnect the evaporator line from the compressor and put in a new line from the aftermarket evap/blower to the compressor right? Plus wire in power to the box, of course.

The chrysler has 175k miles on it now. I'm going to ride her til she REALLY gives up the ghost. Engine replaced at 147k miles, tho, so that might be awhile. In the meantime, driving her in south texas weather without A/C is murder.

Any reason why I couldn't or shouldn't do this?

Incidentally, I will never own another chrysler after this. This is just ridiculous. Pull the entire dash to replace an evap coil? Take a wheel off to replace the battery? It's like they intentionally designed it to be frustrating to maintain.

 

[zout]

At the auto parts shops - they have an ac sealer that inserts just like freon. The costs of these is tremendous as well as on some other models as well.

Try the sealer in light increments and refill back with freon to the required level - you might find this might seal this leak - if not - you have lost really nothing.

 

[TexAndy]

thanks, I'll give that a shot.

 

[Billy Bobbed]

Why not use a small honda generator to run a portable A/C.They will run for ever,day and night.Put a RV air on top.

 

[ODdave]

really? ac? come on its a deuce.

 

[TexAndy]

really? ac? come on its a deuce.

What was today's high temp in lansing?

 

[ODdave]

not shure, 80's. but dose it really matter? i guess i bought mine for a hobby and see it differntly but so what if its hot, thats part of the fun. roll the windows down, open the vents and drive! not to mention how are you gonna seal that cab? AC is anything but efficient, and is gonna work its a** of in a un sealed un insulated cab. posibly even overheating and cooking the compressor. I am not by any means saying it cant or shouldnt be done but is it realy worth the effort?

 

[Burgerboy13]

It wouldn't take much effort to insulate the cab. It was 115 today here in Phoenix and if i had a deuce I would defiantly look into a AC solution. Rolling down the windows doesn't work here in Arizona. Basically turns your truck into a convection oven. But we can tough (sweat) it out.

 

[TexAndy]

I plan to seal everything I can with homemade gaskets out of RTV.

But just for the sake of argument... how would the cab being unsealed and uninsulated make the compressor work "harder?" It would have to work longer to cool down the cab, sure. But, it's not like an electric motor where it has a duty cycle, is it?

I thought the only thing that made the compressor work harder was the ambient temperature around the condenser...

 

[ODdave]

leave the windows open on you house with the ac on. that is the easiest deffinition for this i can give, watch how hot the compressor gets.

how are you going to run the electromagnetic clutch? do they offer a 24v one? what about the low & high pressure cut out switches?

dumb ? but its a 115deg there? wtf are you doing in a deuce? lol. i just had to ask.

 

[Burgerboy13]

leave the windows open on you house with the ac on. that is the easiest deffinition for this i can give, watch how hot the compressor gets.

how are you going to run the electromagnetic clutch? do they offer a 24v one? what about the low & high pressure cut out switches?

dumb ? but its a 115deg there? wtf are you doing in a deuce? lol. i just had to
ask.

Yeah sometimes it gets to 120 degrees. I don't have a deuce yet. I am just here to learn.

 

[ODdave]

well thats a good answer. cause now that i think back, when you do get one, you will be in it no matter what the temp is. Till you decide to go back inside and find a way to buy another.

 

[TexAndy]

Why would the compressor get hotter for any other reason than it's working for longer periods of time?

And no, I don't have all the electrical details worked out on doing AC in a deuce. Do you have any actual constructive advice to offer? "A/C in a deuce is stupid!" doesn't count.

 

[ODdave]

well **** andy, didnt mean to get ya all ryled up now. if im not mistaken i dont belive i said it was "stupid" , i just questioned its nessesity

i just wanted to bring up the point about sealing the cab and posible over heating of the comp. yea i probly could add lots of good info being i do fix automotive A/C systems on an almost daily basis durring the summer here, but if your allredy this heated i dont think your A/C will be done soon enuff to cool you off.

FWIW- Belt driven is the way to go, and im not a total electrical guru but as far as your compressor's electromagnetic clutch, you might be able to isolate the ground and run it to the ground of your #1 battery therefore giving you a 12v sorce. Oh ya also i would definatly use an orifice tube insted of a presure regulating manifold for simplicity

 

[atankersdad]

If you need a 24v compressor I have several, NIB. That is the only way to go when doing A/C in an MV. The Red Dot unit works great in Iraq so I know its good for Tucson too...

 

[zout]

save ya all a little time over the cab insulation question - check out the thread I posted I have running - it shows the Deuce and 1/2 M109A3 cab of Dinger65's I insulated and I give the link to the supplier of this material - plus he has a demo on there using an kerosene fired heater and the results