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A Couple of Electrical Questions

Kevin Means

New member
29
16
3
Location
Hereford, Arizona
While removing all the nuts, bolts and brackets to get rid of the spare tire carrier, I noticed that there's a shunt attached to it. Is there something in this vehicle that requires a shunt? The house battery bank will have a shunt to determine SOC but I'm not worried about that for the chassis. Is there a reason to keep the shunt, or can I just bypass it and get rid of it?

(A similar question for the polarity protection device) We're converting the truck to a 28 volt (only) alternator. I'll down-convert for my 12 volts inside the cab with a Victron device. Is there any reason to hang onto the polarity protection device that's mounted on the spare tire carrier? Thanks

Kevin
 

Ronmar

Well-known member
4,177
8,003
113
Location
Port angeles wa
The shunt was part of the Specialized Test Equipment system. The sense terminals on the shunt run to the 30 pin cannon plug by your knee under the drivers dash… pull it… Since I re-orientated my batts with the ground at the front of the box, I was able to re-route one of the cables to or from the shunt to run direct battery to starter motor case ground…

you can also easily pull that 30 pin STE cannon plug, its bracket, the black plastic junction box behind it and the frequency divider module from under the drivers dash. It takes about 2 minutes as it all ties into the truck wiring with 2 modular plugs located just up inside the dash thru the holes that their wires run up into…

you can probably also do away with the PPD. I re-wired mine along the lines of a more traditional automotive wiring config with +28 using the starter solenoid terminal as the central tie point For batt, alt and power dist panel. I am still running the dual volt alt, so I still have a 14 v line running between alt and battery as the regulator needs to see the middle of the 24v battery to regulate properly…
 
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