Yesterday I got the truck to move again under it own power with the new cab!! The no start issue appears to be caused by a bad wire in the harness that goes between the cab and the chassis. I think I may have accidentally pinched the bundle during some of the heavy lifting. No worries though, because security is much improved. Only those that know where to touch the magic screwdriver can start the truck hahaha.
Air senders:
The A1 cabs have a medallion instruments box under the driver side dash that drive the A1 dash instruments. This box has two air lines going to it which are used to read the pressure in each system and report it to the user with the gauges. This box can be removed, but you'll need to find a way to hook up the air senders from your old cab. In the A0 cab, the air senders are in a similar location under the left drivers side dash. The two senders are connected to a valve which is suspended from the dash. I just cut all those air lines and unbolted the valve and sender assembly as a unit.
Once the senders are out, you'll need a way to connect them to the 1/4" air lines that were going to the medallion box. I picked up a couple DOT push connect fittings and adapters. Grainger or Fastenal are good sources for these. The senders have are a metric thread, but already have an adapter on them that is 3/8" pipe thread. I ended up with a 3/8 coupler, bushing down to 1/4, and then the 1/4 air fitting. Air fittings with 3/8" thread and 1/4" tube connection are readily available, but my local store was out so I have more adapters than I really need.
There are two primary connections on these senders: gauge and warning. These are marked on top of the sender with "G" and "WK" respectively. I don't think anything will blow up if you get these backwards, but your air gauges definitely won't work. The senders have a third secret connect...ground. In the A0 cab the senders are grounded through the valve suspended from the dash. We no longer have that valve so we need to find a way to ground these. I improvised a solution with some zip ties and wire for testing purposes, but I plan to make a more permanent solution using some hose clamps.
Brakes:
Brakes were surprisingly straight forward. I cut the ferrules off the old air lines and simply shoved them in the QC fittings on the front of the cab in the same order/orientation as they were on the A0. This was probably the easiest part of the swap.
Throttle:
I ended up moving the throttle from the A0 cab into the A1. Despite the A1 having an electronic throttle, the cab still has the original port for the throttle cable. The dash also has holes for mounting of the cable and to allow the pedal rod to pass through. I picked up some #14x3/4" self tappers and screwed the original pedal to the mounting plate for the A1 pedal. I measured the position of the pedal in the A0 cab so I could transfer it to the A1. Its important you don't screw this up so the rod can travel freely.
You'll also need to transfer over the in dash components of the throttle. The hand throttle is connected to a bracket and lever arm which is what actually actuates the throttle. This assembly is what you're after. There are 8 spot welds that should be easily visible with the heater box removed. Go ahead and drill these out. There are also 3 spot welds to the bottom of the dash. These were a pain for me to remove as they were nearly invisible. Hopefully the are easier to see on your cab. Once all the welds are drilled, get in there with a chisel and hammer away until it pops off.
Go ahead and measure the position of the bracket in the old cab, so you can locate it in the same relative position when you spot weld it in the new cab.
Still working on a few more little things, but with any luck I'll be able to get it registered soon!