A3 air steering assist regulator

[AMX]

After a couple hundred miles my air pressure buzzer would activate. The problem was this regulator mounted on the left front inner frame rail. After removing the protective aluminum cover i found the end of the plastic housing had broken off leaving a direct air opening. I simply replaced the regulator with an old one I already had, problem solved.Hopefully these pictures will help if any of you ever encounter this problem.

 

[goodguyzy]

if i remember correctly the fix was to eliminate the regulator.

 

[wsucougarx]

Check ebay! There a gal on there that sells all kind of A3 parts. Something like WCgirl is her ebay name. I picked up brand new regulator for .99 3 weeks ago. She normally lists them all the time. Just search M35A3. She also has a bunch of CTIS pars

 

[Rustygears]

I posted similar info a few months ago. Add schrader valve (tire air valve) to the plugged monitoring port on the regulator so you can set the output pressure and to diagnose future problems with a tire pressure gage.

 

[toddm]

if i remember correctly the fix was to eliminate the regulator.

When I added my air-o-matic I did not install the regulator, it works fine without it.

 

[SETOYOTA]

I went to check out an A3 that I recenlty purchased ( still waiting on the EUC) Air is blowing out of the reguator and the truck is very hard to steer. I expect the 2 problems are related. I have no experience with this sytem and do not have the TMs yet.

The air leak will stop intermently and the truck will build a little pressure but then its like a valve pops and the air starts blowing out of the regulator and losses pressure.

Also the air leak seems to stop if the wheel is turned slightly to the left or right. Mind you I had the truck running so it may have just slowed the leak. When its coming out of the regulator it is at a very high volume. Any ideas Anbody got one for sale. I checked Ebay but no luck
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[AMX]

I went to check out an A3 that I recenlty purchased ( still waiting on the EUC) Air is blowing out of the reguator and the truck is very hard to steer. I expect the 2 problems are related. I have no experience with this sytem and do not have the TMs yet.

The air leak will stop intermently and the truck will build a little pressure but then its like a valve pops and the air starts blowing out of the regulator and losses pressure.

Also the air leak seems to stop if the wheel is turned slightly to the left or right. Mind you I had the truck running so it may have just slowed the leak. When its coming out of the regulator it is at a very high volume. Any ideas Anbody got one for sale. I checked Ebay but no luck
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Sounds identical to my problem (see post #1). I also had the hard steering.

 

[emmado22]

WCgirl is actually 2 guys.

 

[flyxpl]

The regulators have rubber diaphrams that get dry and crack and will leak . When I got my A3 the reg was shut off . I now have it crankd all the way up and it seems to cause no problems . When mine starts to leak I will just eliminate the reg . If I ever have problems I can turn the air off on the firewall until I gt it fixed .

 

[SETOYOTA]

other than ebay Who might would have one?

The regulator on mine looks ok.. nothing missing like in your pictures. I was able to screw the valve all the way to the bottom and the leak stopped. The truck air pressure rose to 120 but still hard to steer. Did I close the valve and prevent the power steering from airing up? I ran out of time at the DRMO and could not turn the valve the other way to see what would happen.

After getting back from the DRMO I got my paid in full invoice so I most likely will pick the truck up tomorrow.

 

[AceHigh]

Seriously, just pick up a few brass parts at Lowes and eliminate it.

 

[Rustygears]

If you are picking up the truck tomorrow, close the shutoff valve located on the engine firewall just to the left (looking from the engine side towards the cab) of the driver's side, near the middle. There's a little brass petcock valve (looks like a radiator drain-type valve). It will cut the air to the regulator. Since it doesn't help you in the parking lot because it's all leaking out and the PS has no real impact when rolling on the road, it will keep your pressure up for safe brake and engine cooling fan operation.

You can replace/bypass the regulator when you get home, instead of at GL.

 

[SETOYOTA]

I replaced the regulator with another used unit. No air leaks holds steady at 120 but the air assist is still not functioning as it should. Very hard to turn left or right even while the truck is moving,

 

[AceHigh]

So far I have "repaired" both my units by adding air tool oil.

 

[Rustygears]

There is a quick and easy trick that may fix it. Try putting a little airtool or marvel mystery oil in the inlet to the drag link air line and work the wheel back and forth. The drag link control can jam up with corrosion and kill the system. This technique will also lube the ram too.

Separately, make sur the Haldex air dryer is working properly. Service the filter and desiccant cartridge. If that air reg has been leaking for a long time, the dryer may have not been able to cycle properly and is now full of snot. Similarly, thoroughly drain all 3 drain valves on the air tanks.

 

[SETOYOTA]

Success! I removed the regulator and also put a little Marvel Mystery Oil in the drag link. seems to work good now.

These A3s are really something

 

[Mquirin]

I was having the same problem with hard steering and figured out I have strong air presssure to the regulator, but nothing comming out from the regulator. I'm going to bypass the regulator if it won't cause any damage.

How much Marvel Mystery or airtool oil should I put in (just a few drops, or how much)? Should I add this to the line that goes from the regulator into the drag link input?

Thank you!

 

[gimpyrobb]

Yes, bypass and add 5 or 6 drops of oil.

 

[Two Stroke Madness]

WCgirl is actually 2 guys.

That sounds like some false advertising one would come across on Craigslist