Advice Please: Planning 4L80 Conversion

[FlameRed]

What is the actual part number for the new carrier bearing?

The one I received has part number 2520-01-356-9189 - was supposed to be for front drive shafts for 92-04 with 4 speed - which I think is the longer front driveshaft that I got with my 4L80.


OE/OEM Part Number:
2520-01-189-2135 5-213X 5306-01-190-5760, 5340-01-190-0807 2-70-18X
Interchange Part Number:
2520-01-423-5120 12342620-1 6002629 6002629, 12342620-1 6002629 915806-1618 2520014235120, 014235120 01-423-5120 2-60-1081, 2520-01-356-9189 12342620 6002629-K 915806, 2520013569189 013569189 01-356-9189, 5935395 12342620, 2-60-1081, 3130-01-203-9870 3130012039870 012039870, 01-203-9870 5741082 5937483

 

[springer1981]

The one I received has part number 2520-01-356-9189 - was supposed to be for front drive shafts for 92-04 with 4 speed - which I think is the longer front driveshaft that I got with my 4L80.


OE/OEM Part Number:
2520-01-189-2135 5-213X 5306-01-190-5760, 5340-01-190-0807 2-70-18X
Interchange Part Number:
2520-01-423-5120 12342620-1 6002629 6002629, 12342620-1 6002629 915806-1618 2520014235120, 014235120 01-423-5120 2-60-1081, 2520-01-356-9189 12342620 6002629-K 915806, 2520013569189 013569189 01-356-9189, 5935395 12342620, 2-60-1081, 3130-01-203-9870 3130012039870 012039870, 01-203-9870 5741082 5937483

Sent you a PM.

 

[FlameRed]

Ok, I called the people that sent me the kit in the picture. They said I need a different one. They are going to swap out the kit for me.

 

[FlameRed]

I will post this information in case it might be helpful to anyone else. The part number of the bearing they sent as a replacement was 3130-01-203-9870 and that is indeed what I needed. After receiving the correct carrier bearing, I found the instructions at this link were not quite workable for me. First, a 1 1/4" pipe would not fit over the drive shaft!

So what I used is I what I had - a 1 1/2" PVC pipe. Yeah, beating on PVC is not good. 1.5 inch PVC was too large to fit down inside to contact the inner bearing race. So I took a grinder and tapered the PVC until it fit and it was making contact with the inside race only. Don't beat on the outside of the bearing!

I tried to seat the bearing using the PVC pipe and a couple of wacks with a hammer but it was not going to go on.

I took the drive shaft and let it sit in a bucket of ice for an hour just up to the part where the bearing sits on the shaft. Then I used a heat gun on the inside race of the bearing and the metal end fitting that goes outside the bearing and got it hot to the point where it got nice and toasty, but the grease was not melting or anything. Don't go crazy with the heat. No torch!

Then I quickly pulled the drive shaft out of the ice bucket, and placed the hot bearing on the shaft with the metal end fitting that goes on the outside, and two good knocks with a hammer on the PVC seated it. Another victory!
So now I have perfect "like new" drive shafts ready for the 4L80 when I start on that in about a month.

 

[FlameRed]

Next question for the experts here. I am almost at the stage where I would remove the old 3 speed tranny. I have the dog house off, exhaust cleared, drive shafts out and just have to disconnect the little things.

When you remove the tranny, do you need to support the engine? It looks like the engine mounts are so far back and substaintail, that I am thinking it might be ok to not support the engine with wood and a jack stand like I would do in a civie hotrod to prevent the engine from rocking. Is it necessary to support the 6.2 when the tranny comes out?

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Next question for the experts here. I am almost at the stage where I would remove the old 3 speed tranny. I have the dog house off, exhaust cleared, drive shafts out and just have to disconnect the little things.

When you remove the tranny, do you need to support the engine? It looks like the engine mounts are so far back and substaintail, that I am thinking it might be ok to not support the engine with wood and a jack stand like I would do in a civie hotrod to prevent the engine from rocking. Is it necessary to support the 6.2 when the tranny comes out?

yes

 

[loosegravel]

Next question for the experts here. I am almost at the stage where I would remove the old 3 speed tranny. I have the dog house off, exhaust cleared, drive shafts out and just have to disconnect the little things.

When you remove the tranny, do you need to support the engine? It looks like the engine mounts are so far back and substaintail, that I am thinking it might be ok to not support the engine with wood and a jack stand like I would do in a civie hotrod to prevent the engine from rocking. Is it necessary to support the 6.2 when the tranny comes out?

It's always better to error on the safe side. Since the mounts are placed towards the rear, it would be good to place a jack stand under the front of the engine somewhere, like on the crank pulley?

 

[Mogman]

It is not going to tilt forward, I did not use anything when I pulled the trans out of my M998 but if you are doing it on the ground as opposed to on a lift it will not hurt to support the rear of the engine, you will need to let it tilt back to remove the trans.
EDIT: when I did it I supported the trans on a trans jack, I had the bell housing bolts loose so I could tell when the engine reached it's balancing point, you certainly would not want to hang all the weight of the trans/transfer case on an unsupported engine!

 

[Milcommoguy]

While your rocking and rolling around... watch out for the fan to get jacked into the shroud.

Don't need another problem, CAMO

 

[TOBASH]

While your rocking and rolling around... watch out for the fan to get jacked into the shroud.

Don't need another problem, CAMO

REMOVE THE FAN!

EDIT - CamO is correct. Be safe and remove the fan.

 

[springer1981]

When I did mine it didn't move 1/8" and didn't have any problem and that was after building a custom support for the engine. Bolted the custom support on just in case and never needed to be there.

 

[FlameRed]

Once again I need the wisdom of the collective as I am kind of stuck on a few things doing this 4L80 swap.

I am officially retired, as of today. So now I will actually have some time to work on this project. Plus the Florida Inferno has eased a bit so I won't roast while outside.

Here is where I am at:

• The driveshafts are out.
• The exhaust is almost out, except for the Drinker's side pipe. Good thing I planned on replacing the exhaust as parts just disintegrated during removal.
• I have the fuel tank drained. I will replace the tank, and the ware parts soon.
• I have the tranny and gear box drained.
• I have the tranny dipstick out.

So here are the problems I am facing. I would like to see if your recommendations on how to proceed.

1. The upper bolt for the torque converter cover on the Drinker's side was totally rusted on. My various impacts could not get it loose. I used my gorilla Dewalt impact and it tore the head off right off the bolt. The remainder of the threads are stuck in the bell housing. But the bolt does not seem to interfear removing the torque converter cover. I am thinking if I can get the torque converter cover off, I don't care if the bolt is stuck as it goes out with the tranny itself.
2. The upper bolt on the torque converter cover on the driver's side is unbolted as far as I can get it as it interferes with the oil filter mount. Should I just cut the bolt off? Or is there a trickier way of getting that bolt out. This is the bolt with the yellow arrow on the left in the picture below.
3. The only part of the exhaust I cannot get off is the Drinker's side exhaust manifold connections. I looked at this YouTube:
   But I cannot get a wrench on the bolt heads as the starter is in the way, and there is a heat shield on the top side that makes it so I cannot get a wrench on them. My impact did loosen them. I am thinking I can get easy access to the back side of the bolts after the tranny is out? So I was just going to leave it in. But then when I go to install the new crossover pipe, how can I get access to the bolts to tighten them! Any advice? Please don't tell me I need to remove the starter
   
4. It appears to me that there is some kind of sealant on the torque converter cover. Seems locked on tighter than a drum! Never seen any sealant on torque converter covers on hot rods before. Is (silicone?) sealant normal on the Humvee torque converter covers? Best way to beat it off?

 

[Mogman]

You can loosen the big bolt on the oil filter adapter (just a little bit) and swing the filter if that will help.
Don't know what to say about the manifold bolts, it was tight but I could get a wrench on all of them.
The cover is likely glued on with silicone sealer.
You can cut the bolt with a torch as you will likely replace all of them anyway, just do not cut the manifold and have a fire watch.

 

[FlameRed]

You can loosen the big bolt on the oil filter adapter (just a little bit) and swing the filter if that will help.

Perfect! That was easy!

Don't know what to say about the manifold bolts, it was tight but I could get a wrench on all of them.

I slightly bent the heat shield a bit and I was able to get a wrench on one of them. The other two are being difficult to get a wrench on. All are loose, but I need to get a wrench on the other end as they keep turning. I am guessing that these two will be the sort of PITA bolts that will take a day each and require me inventing a new curse word for each! Maybe I will try putting a vice grip on the end I can get to.

Yhe cover is likely glued on with silicone sealer.

I got the cover off. I don't see any oil leaks so I have no idea someone used a drum of silicon on it! Just a mess to clean it up.

 

[FlameRed]

Thank you for your patience with this newbee. One more question is regard to the speedo sensor.

Should I use the sensor that came on the 4L80, and just reconnect the speedo cable on the truck? Or use the original speedo sensor assembly that was on the 3 speed tranny?

Also, what is this little electronic gizmo next to the sensor on the 4 speed? What does this get connected to on the truck, if anything?

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Thank you for your patience with this newbee. One more question is regard to the speedo sensor.

Should I use the sensor that came on the 4L80, and just reconnect the speedo cable on the truck? Or use the original speedo sensor assembly that was on the 3 speed tranny?

Also, what is this little electronic gizmo next to the sensor on the 4 speed? What does this get connected to on the truck, if anything?

View attachment 885427

The speedo adapter will just connect to your existing speedo cable, it’s the same on the 242 as it is on the 218.
the other sensor is the Tcase lock lamp switch….not required but there is a harness for it and a Tcase lock lamp For it.

 

[FlameRed]

I am not really an tranny expert as you can well tell, but I am curious what this thingy is on the drinker's side of the front? Looks like it is some kind of vacuum diaphram? The 4L80 does not seem to have it so I assume I just plug the hose.

 

[springer1981]

I am not really an tranny expert as you can well tell, but I am curious what this thingy is on the drinker's side of the front? Looks like it is some kind of vacuum diaphram? The 4L80 does not seem to have it so I assume I just plug the hose.

View attachment 885585

That is the TV cable and needs to be unhooked from the FI Pump/throttle. It and the cable stays with the transmission. That is the manual kickdown cable. Your new one is electronic.

 

[FlameRed]

I made some progress and got the 3 speed out without drama. Next I will be replacing the leaking fuel tank with a new one thanks to the good deals that @springer1981 pointed out to me I also have more space now to get the last two remaining bolts from the drinker's side exhaust manifold flange.

But planning ahead, I wanted to ask if anyone knows the specific torque for the torque converter bolts to the flywheel for the 4l80 and for the four bolts that for the bell housing to the block? I don't see them in the tech manuals but I am sure I am just overlooking them. I believe I will use blue loctite on the torque converter bolts and put a quart of Dexos 6 tranny fluid in the new TC before I mount it. In the hot rod world, you usually listen/feel for the three clicks to know the TC is properly seated.

 

[Mogman]

This one says 32ftlb

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