Air Brakes

[3up]

You guys were right I unplugged the CTIS no more giant farting, I plug it in and it farts twice and stops now, Normal? Walked around can’t hear any leaks. With the CTIS unplugged pressure is now 130 not 120 as it was plugged in. Sound right? Air dryer rebuild kit on the way. I think it’s getting close to being good to go.

 

[3up]

Rg31 mrap units have an aluminum radiator. Transmission air charge cooler and intercooler made into one @silverstate55 might have one near youm or I've got a few

Radiator swap is about a three job and a simple Mod. Welding intercooler pipes is more time

How would I go about ordering one? Is there a post of someone that has done it. I read one but I said you had to do a 2 inch body lift on the cab I would rather not do that if I don’t have to

 

[Jbulach]

You guys were right I unplugged the CTIS no more giant farting, I plug it in and it farts twice and stops now, Normal? Walked around can’t hear any leaks. With the CTIS unplugged pressure is now 130 not 120 as it was plugged in. Sound right? Air dryer rebuild kit on the way. I think it’s getting close to being good to go.

What are the lights on the controller doing? Guessing you have leaks, causing it to time out with 5 flashing lights.

 

[simp5782]

How would I go about ordering one? Is there a post of someone that has done it. I read one but I said you had to do a 2 inch body lift on the cab I would rather not do that if I don’t have to

I've got one if you need one.

No you don't need to modify anything it fits in the stock location

 

[3up]

What are the lights on the controller doing? Guessing you have leaks, causing it to time out with 5 flashing lights.

Yes 5 flashing

 

[3up]

Yes 5 flashing

Going to do the soapy water thing tomorrow. I see a lot of people just cap the CTIS off and not use it is it a troublesome I think it would be handy

 

[3up]

I've got one if you need one.

No you don't need to modify anything it fits in the stock location

Ok great how much is it ? Im going to need one my EGTs run to high

 

[98G]

Going to do the soapy water thing tomorrow. I see a lot of people just cap the CTIS off and not use it is it a troublesome I think it would be handy

When it works, it makes a fine tire minder if nothing else. Even if you don't use the traction related pressure drops, it still checks tire pressure and makes sure they're all at pressure upon startup.

When it doesn't work, it destroys your tires without warning.

I've had it on a several trucks. On one it worked fine. On another it randomly dropped my tire pressure to 17psi at highway speed. Blowouts ensued...

It was deleted on my M936A2 before I got it. I won't be putting it back.

I think it causes a pretty big hit to overall reliability of a truck.

 

[3up]

When it works, it makes a fine tire minder if nothing else. Even if you don't use the traction related pressure drops, it still checks tire pressure and makes sure they're all at pressure upon startup.

When it doesn't work, it destroys your tires without warning.

I've had it on a several trucks. On one it worked fine. On another it randomly dropped my tire pressure to 17psi at highway speed. Blowouts ensued...

It was deleted on my M936A2 before I got it. I won't be putting it back.

I think it causes a pretty big hit to overall reliability of a truck.

Ok thank you for your insight

 

[Jbulach]

I use mine all the time doing a lot of work off road, plus airing down to help prevent tearing up yards or breaking down the edges of asphalt driveways.

I did however go with a manual setup on top of the auto controller, so I typically leave my controller unplugged so I can regulate my tires at whatever pressure I need and keep pressure off the hub seals while rolling.

If you get 5 flashing lights, and your tires don’t bleed down over a week or so, you probably have valve cores in the stems, underneath the wheel valve hose. You’ll need to pull those out, then see what your controller does. You can prevent it from timing out so quickly by hitting the emergency button. The system only has pressure between the control valve and the wheel valves while it is dumping air, filling, or doing a pressure check. It is easiest to pull the output line off the control valve and apply constant (less than 70psi) shop air, so you can listen for leaks, after all the tires have equalized.

This is a single circuit system, so I does not do well with the electric controller when you get a fairly good leak in one tire. It will be airing the other 5 down while it is trying to bring the leaker up…

 

[3up]

I use mine all the time doing a lot of work off road, plus airing down to help prevent tearing up yards or breaking down the edges of asphalt driveways.

I did however go with a manual setup on top of the auto controller, so I typically leave my controller unplugged so I can regulate my tires at whatever pressure I need and keep pressure off the hub seals while rolling.

If you get 5 flashing lights, and your tires don’t bleed down over a week or so, you probably have valve cores in the stems, underneath the wheel valve hose. You’ll need to pull those out, then see what your controller does. You can prevent it from timing out so quickly by hitting the emergency button. The system only has pressure between the control valve and the wheel valves while it is dumping air, filling, or doing a pressure check. It is easiest to pull the output line off the control valve and apply constant (less than 70psi) shop air, so you can listen for leaks, after all the tires have equalized.

This is a single circuit system, so I does not do well with the electric controller when you get a fairly good leak in one tire. It will be airing the other 5 down while it is trying to bring the leaker up…

Looks like i need to study the TMs on this

 

[3up]

Looks like i need to study the TMs on this

Thank you

 

[Mullaney]

Looks like i need to study the TMs on this

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There is a pretty good writeup on the MTVR / LMTV forum about how to diagnose the CTIS system. The TM's have information too. There is a troubleshooting guide (link below) that gets directly to the point. Might be a place to start. If nothing else, looking at the pictures and understanding what it does and how it works will help you. There are 75 pages with simplified schematics, how to operate, what is and isn't good. Pictures of the components are really useful too when you are crawling around and under your truck.

Dana CTIS Troubleshooting Guide (M900 series)

 

[Defcon-1]

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Not trying to be a pest, but what about the other leak toward the back of the truck?
Maybe hooking a compressor to the truck for quiet time air leak research...

That is cheap. A little soap and a spray bottle and some air.

A newb question incoming, where do you hook up the truck to for pressurization? Is it the front passenger glad-hand connection?

 

[simp5782]

A newb question incoming, where do you hook up the truck to for pressurization? Is it the front passenger glad-hand connection?

Drivers side to feed air. Passengers side for brake activation line

 

[Defcon-1]

Drivers side to feed air. Passengers side for brake activation line

So driver side is for all air and aux items (like wipers / CTIS / etc.) and passenger side is just dedicated to brakes? Does that include the parking brake on the passenger side?

 

[Mullaney]

So driver side is for all air and aux items (like wipers / CTIS / etc.) and passenger side is just dedicated to brakes? Does that include the parking brake on the passenger side?

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Driver's Side allows you to fully "charge" the air system.
Really good for finding leaky air lines, problems with CTIS, a pinhole in an air tank, leaky tank drain valves, poppet valves on a gearbox, and so on. (Everything powered by air should function)

The passenger side applies the brakes if the vehicle is being towed. Having the ability to have fully functioning brakes on a vehicle hanging on a tow bar or wrecker adds a big SAFETY FACTOR

 

[Defcon-1]

I did however go with a manual setup on top of the auto controller, so I typically leave my controller unplugged so I can regulate my tires at whatever pressure I need and keep pressure off the hub seals while rolling.

How did you do a manual setup for the CTIS? Do you just let it air up to Highway and then unplug the controller? I thought unplugging the controller lets all the release valves open? Help a newb understand please lol.