Air over hydraulic, CTIS, and few other question

[Kbarnes0]

Hello all. Just finishing the fluid changes on the 94 M1090. The voltage regulator tested bad and looks like the new one will be here tomorrow. Hit it with the pressure washer and it's interesting to think of where all this dirt and rocks come from.

The steering knuckles seem to take quite a bit of grease. Started showing on the lower, but still nothing on top. Same on driveline slip yokes. Figure I'm good to just keep going.

Martin from FMTV sales mentioned to make sure the drivelines had been updated since its a preproduction truck. Is there an identifier I should be looking for?

CTIS, 5 lights steady on. I'm hoping that with full voltage it will resolve the issue. Looked through the TM's and searched the forum and the goog and didn't find anything about five steady lights on. No action in the system. Is this a sign the controller is bad.

Air over hydraulic control. When turning the knobs, I can feel the detent between selection. The lower control knob doesn't seem to have detents, and doesn't turn to the right quite as far. I topped off the resivore. Cab functions, spare functions, but the suspension function doesn't work. I was figuring cycling it through might just be good. The TM's are mainly relying on pressure tests at various port's.
Do you guys have any info on what is typical for these systems, and if that lower knob should feel like the others?

Plug questions. Wondering what these are for. The one on the back of the cab? Roof Service light? Mine has the button on the dash
The one by the air box?

Thanks in advance.

 

[coachgeo]

on the plate by your left knee when sitting in driver seat....

is there a D stamped/added to anywhere near the vin number? (may not mean much based on next question)

manufactured in 94...... but what year put into service? 97?

("D" seems to mean "Depot" as in truck went to depot after being in the field..... being sent back to depot is done for massive repair or upgrade is what I've come to understand. all the trucks got a D in hmmm.. 96? cause they all got upgraded drivelines at depot. At least the LMTV did.. not sure about the MTV. Anyway... After 96??? no more D's .... which matches my speculation that they left manufacture with the better drive line after that... so no return to depot was required,thus no D stamped on them..... least not for driveline. again this is just speculation.

I to have a 94 with no D. but Im speculating that it may have been upgraded before "actually" leaving manufacture cause it was not put into service/left manufacture? until 1997 according to data plate. Yeah due to some contract stuff?? over production at first??.. a lot of trucks sat for few years plus at manufacture in Sealy TX.

 

[Kbarnes0]

on the plate by your left knee when sitting in driver seat....

is there a D stamped/added to anywhere near the vin number? (may not mean much based on next question)

manufactured in 94...... but what year put into service? 97?

("D" seems to mean "Depot" as in truck went to depot after being in the field..... being sent back to depot is done for massive repair or upgrade. all the trucks got a D in hmmm.. 96? cause they all got upgraded drivelines at depot. At least the LMTV did.. not sure about the MTV. Anyway... After 96??? no more D's .... which matches the concept that they left manufacture with the better drive line after that... so no return to depot was required.... least not for driveline.

I to have a 94 with no D. but Im curious that it may have been upgraded before "actually" leaving manufacture cause it was not put into service/left manufacture? until 1997 according to data plate. Yeah due to some contract stuff?? over production at first??.. a lot of trucks sat for few years plus.

I'll check tomorrow. I recall 94 and delivered in 96 on the tag. Might be that it sat for a while before heading to service. Front drive line has a sticker. I'm going to grab the info off of them so I can reference it as I find more info

 

[Ronmar]

5 solid lights means the CTIS controller/processor is toast. You can replace it, unplug and go without it Or configure for manual control, either with air or with electric(pushbuttons) which I did as my controler had 5 solids as well... search here for those manual CTIS writeups...

my lower hydraulic control knob doesn't have A detent for the suspension Position. When you say yours doesnt work, did you pull the locking pins On the suspension cylinders? Each cylinder has 2 Quickpins(hold button on pin handle then pull pin out) lock the rod retracted to hold the suspension compressed against leaks.

the plug on the back of the cab Is for a roof rotating beacon, controlled by the switch on the dash...

 

[Kbarnes0]

5 solid lights means the CTIS controller/processor is toast. You can replace it, unplug and go without it Or configure for manual control, either with air or with electric(pushbuttons) which I did as my controler had 5 solids as well... search here for those manual CTIS writeups...

my lower hydraulic control knob doesn't have A detent for the suspension Position. When you say yours doesnt work, did you pull the locking pins On the suspension cylinders? Each cylinder has 2 Quickpins(hold button on pin handle then pull pin out) lock the rod retracted to hold the suspension compressed against leaks.

the plug on the back of the cab Is for a roof rotating beacon, controlled by the switch on the dash...

Perfect thank you. Saw the pins after the fact. Release Both I suppose.? Didn't catch that too begin with. Wondering about repurposing it for down riggers for leveling? Might need to just tie it straight into the hydraulic curciut with the pto.

I'd like to find a controller, but looks like it's in short supply. I've read the CTIS/ardino thread. And looked at manual. Might read into it more.

Thinking of using the beacon curciut and switch for a light bar. Seems like a good setup.

 

[Kbarnes0]

on the plate by your left knee when sitting in driver seat....

is there a D stamped/added to anywhere near the vin number? (may not mean much based on next question)

manufactured in 94...... but what year put into service? 97?

("D" seems to mean "Depot" as in truck went to depot after being in the field..... being sent back to depot is done for massive repair or upgrade is what I've come to understand. all the trucks got a D in hmmm.. 96? cause they all got upgraded drivelines at depot. At least the LMTV did.. not sure about the MTV. Anyway... After 96??? no more D's .... which matches my speculation that they left manufacture with the better drive line after that... so no return to depot was required,thus no D stamped on them..... least not for driveline. again this is just speculation.

I to have a 94 with no D. but Im speculating that it may have been upgraded before "actually" leaving manufacture cause it was not put into service/left manufacture? until 1997 according to data plate. Yeah due to some contract stuff?? over production at first??.. a lot of trucks sat for few years plus at manufacture in Sealy TX.

Didn't notice a D

 

[Awesomeness]

5 solid lights means the CTIS controller/processor is toast. You can replace it, unplug and go without it Or configure for manual control, either with air or with electric(pushbuttons) which I did as my controler had 5 solids as well... search here for those manual CTIS writeups...

5 lights blinking is bad, but isn't 5 lights solid normal? That's how mine stays after it's aired up and good to go.

Check the doc here in my signature for some info about the driveline issues, and other things you might like to know about.

 

[Andyrv6av8r]

5 lights blinking is bad, but isn't 5 lights solid normal? That's how mine stays after it's aired up and good to go.

One solid light is normal, not 5.

 

[Awesomeness]

One solid light is normal, not 5.

Yeah, you're right. I don't know what I was thinking.

 

[ramdough]

Perfect thank you. Saw the pins after the fact. Release Both I suppose.? Didn't catch that too begin with. Wondering about repurposing it for down riggers for leveling? Might need to just tie it straight into the hydraulic curciut with the pto.

I'd like to find a controller, but looks like it's in short supply. I've read the CTIS/ardino thread. And looked at manual. Might read into it more.

Thinking of using the beacon curciut and switch for a light bar. Seems like a good setup.

[mention]Plasa [/mention] will sell you a complete Arduino setup ready to install and you can reprogram all pressures.


I bought one from him, but have not messed with it yet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Ronmar]

Perfect thank you. Saw the pins after the fact. Release Both I suppose.? Didn't catch that too begin with. Wondering about repurposing it for down riggers for leveling? Might need to just tie it straight into the hydraulic curciut with the pto.

I'd like to find a controller, but looks like it's in short supply. I've read the CTIS/ardino thread. And looked at manual. Might read into it more.

Thinking of using the beacon curciut and switch for a light bar. Seems like a good setup.

Yes, you need to pull/remove both pins from each suspension cylinder. You want to cycle the raise/lower valve back and forth to release any trapped pressure in the cylinders otherwise the pins might not move. Once you depress the little button on the end Of the pin handle, they should pull right out.

The electric over pneumatic manual CTIS is dead easy... 3 buttons and a pressure gauge, about $40 plus whatever you decide to house it in...

 

[Kbarnes0]

Things are coming along nicely.

Here is a Pic of the connections I am curious about.

From my reading, the one by the air box was for the radio/chemical detection

The one on the cab?

 

[Andyrv6av8r]

A toggle switch mounts in the bed and plugs in to there. So the troops in the back can alert the driver and tell him to slow down!

 

[coachgeo]

Things are coming along nicely.

Here is a Pic of the connections I am curious about.

From my reading, the one by the air box was for the radio/chemical detection

The one on the cab?

update- Andy beat me to it..... so yup what he says..

cab is troop signal. it makes the buzzer go off in the dash. same buzzer low air makes go off.

 

[wandering neurons]

Light bar in place of rotating beacon: The beacon is a single bulb and motor, not a lot of amperage draw. My light bar is an "old school": four 50w 12v bulbs and rotator motors. IIRC, 4x50w=200w. 200w/12v=nearly 20 amps, then add in motors. Too much for continual use, my circuit breaker would pop after a few minutes of use.
Solution: replaced incandescent bulbs with LEDs. Less than 1amp/bulb. No more popped breaker. Next time though, I need to watch out for low branches. Broke the right lens assembly and far right rotator. Bummer.
Or, get a newer LED light bar, much lower amperage...

 

[Awesomeness]

A toggle switch mounts in the bed and plugs in to there. So the troops in the back can alert the driver and tell him to slow down!

No, that plug is for something else, I think it's a CBRN alarm. The connections for the troop switch are in the wiring harness on the driver's side of the engine, near the oil dipstick.

 

[Ronmar]

No, that plug is for something else, I think it's a CBRN alarm. The connections for the troop switch are in the wiring harness on the driver's side of the engine, near the oil dipstick.

Yep, What awesomness said. that mount on top of the air filter is for the chemical Detector and the wiring is for its alarm/control. The troopSwitch connector is in the harness...

 

[coachgeo]

Yep, What awesomness said. that mount on top of the air filter is for the chemical Detector and the wiring is for its alarm/control. The troopSwitch connector is in the harness...

hmmm. for better clarity... so if one had chemical detector it would sence bad air in the filter (hence wire port there) and that would trigger charge thru wires that run up to top cab and beyond once inside. assume that also goes to buzzer??

 

[Awesomeness]

hmmm. for better clarity... so if one had chemical detector it would sence bad air in the filter (hence wire port there) and that would trigger charge thru wires that run up to top cab and beyond once inside. assume that also goes to buzzer??

You would have to look at the wiring diagrams and see, but I don't think that's how it would work. My guess is that you mount the CBRN detector box on top of the air filter there and plug it into the electrical plug, no connection to the air intake as it just detects the surrounding air on its own. I think there is a CBRN alarm box that mounts inside the back wall of the cab, behind the passenger's head, and then you would connect some new/extra wiring harness from that alarm into some plug in the dash somewhere. That plug in the dash runs to that connector on top of the air filter housing, to allow the two devices to talk to one another. There may or may not be power to that outside port on the air filter, as the power may go to the connector in the cab, and then the cab device powers the outside device through that port.

Largely speculation.

 

[Awesomeness]

The electric over pneumatic manual CTIS is dead easy...

But the automatic CTIS is so awesome!