Almost destroyed my truck..

[73m819]

use a gas ax on the nuts, then a BFH and a punch bar for the frame mount and unbolt and remove the axle mounts, place on some blocks, then the BFH

 

[BlizzardX23]

kinda lost there



I got the torque rod end out of the axle mount...I'm using a few different punches...and a small sledge hammer but still cant get the torque rod end out of the frame mount. What other tools have you guys used?

 

[73m819]

A BIG SLEDGE hammer

 

[BlizzardX23]

Im about to roll this thing into the #$^@&$^# river!!

 

[73m819]

try some heat, then HIT it

 

[Rattlewagon]

I hope no one minds this but are the studs for the ends tapered like a ball joint?

if that makes sense?

 

[73m819]

yes

 

[Rattlewagon]

yes

I thought so. I was thinking that one could make a whole new torque rod using some 3" ballistic fab joints and some DOM. the only problem would be that I believe the largest I have seen would accommodate a 3/4" bolt.

more work than its probably worth...

 

[BlizzardX23]

the **** taper is whats holding the bolt into the frame still...otherwise, once the nut comes out, it'd be an easy swap....


I tried the torch...still no luck....I just picked up my Remington 870...wonder if that would work...........

 

[topo]

When I had to replace the torque rods on my M131a5c the mounts where welded to the axle so there was no taking them off .so after taking the nut off I welded a chain link to the stud and used a load binder to put a good pull on it .then hit the mount with a hammer some I had to heat up with a torch .

 

[wanderingwillys]

I swapped all mine to longer arms when I stretched the axles for the 14.00's - the trick is as follows:

Strike the top and side of the mount the stud it is stuck in; you will need to hit the to and side of the bracket quite hard - use a wedge of steel or a prybar between the differential and the tip of the stud (run the nut back on until the top of the nut is flush with the end of the threads so you don't mushroom the stud)

Putting out ward pressure on the stud you will beat the bracket until it pops loose (hit it where the paint is missing in the picture). The goal here is to temporarily deform the socket of the bracket so the taper breaks loose. It will seem like you are getting no where and then they will pop free...

Heat may help but I have always done them cold - tapered tie rod ends are the same.

Matt

 

[wanderingwillys]

Also if you need to get the upper two in the frame out you will have to take the u-bolts and lifting bracket off the spring - make sure the truck is blocked up well and it helps to have a floor jack on each axle so the spring can be neutral and just rest on the walking beam pivot... Or one tire on the ground with all the truck weight on the lower control arm bracket like in the picture.

HTH

Matt

 

[Bolkbich]

wanderingwillys....where did you get the longer arms and what else did you have to modify for 48's

 

[wanderingwillys]

I made them...

Check this out:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce-...g/29109-how-fit-14-00r20s-still-have-6wd.html