Another MEP003 is alive

[Acableguy06]

Guys, thank you all for the information in this great forum. Purchased this unit a couple weeks ago from an auction. Did lots of reading here, downloaded the TMs, have been reading them as well.

Went last week and picked up this generator and was pretty happy with it. Low hours 208 on the meter and looking it over appears to be actual hours. Got it home and started cleaning out the fuel system. Wow, lots of yuck all through it. I did not open the IP or do anything past it. Broke the fuel line at the IP due to trying to take it apart with the wrong nut. Found a new line and ordered it. Finished cleaning, new filters, and put all back together minus the fuel line I broke. While waiting on that figured would start checking other functions. All 3 fuel pumps kicked in, fuel stared flowing to the check valve. Happy guy at that point. Hit the start switch to see if the fuel shutoff solenoid worked. Engine turned over was puffing a little white smoke which gave me hope she would fire when I get fuel line in. Fuel solenoid did not work, but I could move it by had easily. Tested it and would not work, was getting 24 volts. So today fuel line comes in, get it put on try starting again, still no fuel solenoid. Took the solenoid out, jumped it to 24v and it actuated, did that a couple times, put it back in and walla all is good. Unit fired right up and purred.

Tested output voltage and it makes power, while testing checked batt voltage and it was overcharging. Shut it down. Later I hooked up to the outputs and ran a 5000 watt 240v heater and while running it was checking batt volts again and it was charging right at 27 volts so seems that is all good.

So far a very happy guy with my action purchase.

Few issues to work through.
1 fuel tank has a pin hole in the bottom have to fix
2 shutters/cooling is sticking, working some pb blaster and stuff on those points to get it free
3 hz meter reading way high pegged out, fluke meter running 60hz.

Any suggestions on the fuel tank repair and the meter issues? I see the transducer is a common issue with the meter. I wouldn't be against swaping all gauges to digital if someone could point me in a direction of locating good set that would fit.

Thanks again for all the info reading through the posts.

 

[glcaines]

You can find NOS fuel tanks occasionally on Ebay. You can also line the tank and hope it plugs the leak,

 

[Light in the Dark]

I would just replace it with a custom aluminum tank and never think about it again.

 

[GopherHill]

You can find NOS fuel tanks occasionally on Ebay. You can also line the tank and hope it plugs the leak,

Fuel tank liners will do the job. You need to be OCD about following the instructions.
See my old posts about tank lining. Best of luck.

 

[Ray70]

On the fuel tank, the ONLY way to go is Caswell Plating's 2 part fuel tank epoxy.
I've used it on at least 8 tanks, some with holes the size of a pencil and had 100% success every time.
The first tank has been in use for about 10 years and still perfect.
Clean the tank out good, dry it out, remove all the fittings etc.
mix the epoxy and pour it in. Keep tipping the tank around all sides allowing it to coat the entire inside.
On an 003 you have a wall in the middle of the tank which you can not see behind.
I recommend letting all the epoxy flow to the far side of that wall through the openings and coat the back side first, then let the excess come back up front and coat the front half.
Keep tipping it around until it begins to thicken up and harden.
I've posted many replies to tank sealer questions and recommended Caswell every time.
I recommend the clear one, not the colored ones. The colors seem to be thicker and don't flow around as easily.

On your Hz meter, 99% guaranteed your Frequency transducer has died. Either replace the gage with a direct read gage and eliminate the transducer, or you can use this transducer https://www.ebay.com/p/1217660135
All you need to do is drill a couple new mounting holes.

 

[Acableguy06]

Clean the tank out good, dry it out, remove all the fittings etc.


I recommend letting all the epoxy flow to the far side of that wall through the openings and coat the back side first, then let the excess come back up front and coat the front half.
Keep tipping it around until it begins to thicken up and harden.

In this parts of your instructions how do I keep this epoxy out of the threads of the fittings/drain hole? And what about the filler tube parts that hang down? Id there enough clearance to put the strainer basket back in if epoxy gets on that part?

 

[ZiggyO]

I have an NOS fuel tank sitting in my parts stash--- pm me.

Z

 

[Guyfang]

Ziggy, Acableguy,

You are going to have a problem sending a PM. Due to a rule change, you do not have a enough posts to do that yet. Send Patracy a PM and he will help you out.

 

[Acableguy06]

I have an NOS fuel tank sitting in my parts stash--- pm me.

Z

I sent a message to Patracy to get over to you. Or you can PM me.

 

[Scoobyshep]

There are replacement frequency gauges available, I would get an aftermarket. Be sure to read the instructions most are direct wire (no transducer)

 

[Ray70]

In this parts of your instructions how do I keep this epoxy out of the threads of the fittings/drain hole? And what about the filler tube parts that hang down? Id there enough clearance to put the strainer basket back in if epoxy gets on that part?

I remove all the tubes and the fuel gage and float switch, plus the bottom drain. cover the holes with tape ( you can also wipe a little grease in the threads to help with cleaning. Once the epoxy has stiffened up, but still tacky I clean all the threads with acetone and a small wire brush and rag. The epoxy makes a thin coating on everything, but it is not thick enough to impede anything as far as pick-up tube etc.

 

[Acableguy06]

I remove all the tubes and the fuel gage and float switch, plus the bottom drain. cover the holes with tape ( you can also wipe a little grease in the threads to help with cleaning. Once the epoxy has stiffened up, but still tacky I clean all the threads with acetone and a small wire brush and rag. The epoxy makes a thin coating on everything, but it is not thick enough to impede anything as far as pick-up tube etc.

Thank you.

Also, looking at these kits I am seeing a 10 gal tank option or 20 gal. Is the 10 enough for this or should I get the larger one and pour out the extra?

 

[Ray70]

I'd get the 20gl kit and mix up about 3/4 of it. You can save a bit for another project, or mix more if you think you need more.
The 10gl. kit is probably just barely enough to cover it, but it all depends on the temperature when you coat it.
If the stuff is a little cold it will flow less and require more material. It's much easier to work with if you have extra and just dump out the excess, rather than to try to get away with the bare minimum, especially with the divider wall in the 003 tank.

 

[Acableguy06]

Gentlemen,

For a Amp meter/load meter is the CT that feeds the gauge in amps or milliamps?

 

[Ray70]

Check the face of the gage, lower right side. It should be labeled with the Full Swing current, which I believe is 1amp AC for a full needle swing, so I'd imagine the CT would be milliamps.

 

[87cr250r]

Is the corrosion in the bottom localized? I would epoxy a sheet metal patch on the outside of the pitting can be covered by it. This is a lot less likely to cause problems than using a liner.

 

[Guyfang]

But you still have the rust problem in the tank. It may not get larger then the patch, but rust in the tank means the fuel is not clean.

 

[Ray70]

Coat the inside. not only will it patch your current hole, it will also encapsulate any other rust areas and create a complete interior liner that will prevent any further problems.
As long as you prep the tank well and use the 2 part epoxy you will never have to touch it again.

 

[Acableguy06]

Another member has offered me a NOS tank I am going to go with and hopefully not ever have to wory about a tank again in my life, or as long as I have it. Old one lasted 34 years and maybe this one will do the same.

On another note, anyone have the wire hookup for aftermarket digital gauges? The gauge I am looking at has all 3 (Voltage, HZ, amp) in one. I am thinking should be able to use the current voltage gauge lines for the voltage and Hz and the load percentage lines for the amps? The meter is programmable to the CT so I am hoping the CT will be compatible with the new gauge.

 

[87cr250r]

I'm just a big epoxy fan. I use Click Bond adhesive mount fasteners everywhere I can in my job. Lots of bad anecdotal information out there so I like to jump on possible epoxy applications.

As for your meter, volts and hertz are taken from the same measurement. Some meters use control transformer as it's generally bad practice to run 480+ volts in control cabinets where people might be troubleshooting. In that case your meter might use a 4:1 transformer so that it reads 120v as 480. The CT has a turns ratio. Most industrial CT's output 5 amps at max. They are purchased with a ratio 500:5 for example. 500 amps through equals 5 amps out. Match this to your meter.

ALWAYS short your CT if it's not connect to a meter.

I am speaking from general knowledge and don't know your specific application.