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Another New (old) M1009 Driver

Mainsail

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Puget Sound, WA
I changed the transmission filter today. Sucked out the fluid with my vacuum pump, dropped the pan, started scraping the RTV and gasket off (it had both), called the cops to report a physical DV going on across the street, pulled the old filter out, put the new one in, then…

The filter is supposed to just flop around in here? The bolt seemed like it was too long, so I searched the site here and found out that was normal. Phew. What a great resource this is! Once it was all buttoned up I poured in four quarts of Dextron VI (the BX doesn’t stock III) and took it around the block. I ended up adding another quart just to get it on the dipstick, but it’s still showing low. I’ll give it a few days and check it again.
 

Mainsail

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I've looked through all the TMs and can't find an answer, and can't think of a search term to use in here.

What is the purpose of the pad aft of the left wheel well on the M1009? I have one of those over the wheel well truck boxes I want to put there and it's in the way.
 

cucv1833

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Lake Charles, LA
I've looked through all the TMs and can't find an answer, and can't think of a search term to use in here.

What is the purpose of the pad aft of the left wheel well on the M1009? I have one of those over the wheel well truck boxes I want to put there and it's in the way.
I think your talking about the JERRY CAN holder platform. The jerry can mounting bracket mounts on top of that.
 

Mainsail

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Well the tire dilemma is over. I found four BF Goodrich All Terrain TAs, the same ones I have on my Jeep WK, for sale on craigslist. They're almost new; still have the tits on them even.

OK, now I need to get them mounted and balanced. After shopping around I ended up back at the auto hobby shop on base to do it myself. Four tires mounted and balanced and I still have all my fingers.

Back at home I pulled the old wheels off and put the new ones on, then took the best of the four for a spare. After that I took it out on the highway for a speed run, speed being relative, and it feels SO much better. Almost all the vibration; gone. The old unbalanced and mismatched wheels were worse than I'd thought. Good riddance.

Full sized Pics:
http://www.topohiker.com/news/newspics/CUCV/WM1.png
http://www.topohiker.com/news/newspics/CUCV/WM2.png
http://www.topohiker.com/news/newspics/CUCV/WM2.png
http://www.topohiker.com/news/newspics/CUCV/CUCV08.png
 

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Mainsail

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Now that the tires are on and the truck can drive down the highway without rattling my teeth loose, next up is some 12 volt power inside the cab. The military didn’t see a need to run a GPS or charge my cell phone, but I do. A few years ago I picked up a three-outlet lighter plug that used to live in a police car, from the recycle center on base. It needs a flat mounting surface, but there aren’t many flat surfaces in the truck. I decided on the ashtray and used some double-stick foam tape to mount it. This way there’s no holes to drill, no screws to sort through, and nothing is permanent.

With that out of the way and enough time to start on the doors, I went ahead and pulled the door panels off to grease the window mechanisms. The window seal on the driver’s side is toast, so water is getting down inside the door and mucking up the gears and slides. I lubed it up good with white lithium grease and it’s working much smoother now. I'll order some new door seals next.

http://www.topohiker.com/news/newspics/CUCV/Lighter02.png
http://www.topohiker.com/news/newspics/CUCV/Lighter03.png
 

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Mainsail

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Puget Sound, WA
I had the idea that I would like to install a clock in the M1009. There isn't a clock of any kind in the truck, and I have an aircraft clock hanging around, so that seems like just the ticket. Now all I need to do is figure out where to put it. I hoped to put it alongside the voltmeter, there looked like enough space there, but it's just a couple millimeters too small. I thought about cutting a hole in the radio-delete panel, but that would take a lot of work, possibly with tools I don't own. I was just about to give up when I noticed that the diagnostic plug is set in a housing that looks almost perfect, with all the holes already drilled. I pulled it out and the clock fits like it was made to go there. Two wires to connect and it's working great.

http://www.topohiker.com/news/newspics/CUCV/Clock.png
 

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Mainsail

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Took the top off to change out the seals as they're all cracked and dry rotted. Since the weather is absolutely fantastic I think I'll be leaving it off for a few weeks. I have some sliders I want to install, and a rack is going on top for the roof-top tent. That will all be easier on the floor of the garage than on top of the truck.

After a quick hike in the Olympics this weekend I took the 09 out for a little exploration. If you look really close at the pictures, you can just make out the camo truck there in the grass.

http://www.topohiker.com/Hikes/images/Camo03.png
http://www.topohiker.com/Hikes/images/Camo01.png
 

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Mainsail

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I got them from Classic Parts. Here are the four seals:
01-817 (1976-91) Blazer - Body Side Seal - Le1 $29.95
01-818 (1976-91) Blazer - Body Side Seal - Ri1 $29.95
01-813 (1976-91) Blazer - Upper Header Seal -1 $34.95
01-814 (1976-91) Blazer - Upper Header Seal -1 $29.95
 

cucv1833

Member
533
4
18
Location
Lake Charles, LA
I got them from Classic Parts. Here are the four seals:
01-817 (1976-91) Blazer - Body Side Seal - Le1 $29.95
01-818 (1976-91) Blazer - Body Side Seal - Ri1 $29.95
01-813 (1976-91) Blazer - Upper Header Seal -1 $34.95
01-814 (1976-91) Blazer - Upper Header Seal -1 $29.95
:ditto: I just spent $300 there trying to re-do all my seals I also bought the tail gate window seals there more expensive. Classic-parts is a great place to get everything at the same time
 

Mainsail

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Puget Sound, WA
I got to work on the fuel gauge this morning. It never goes above ¼ tank and drops from there as I use the fuel. I disconnected the ground, the fuel gauge did not move to full, that supposedly means the gauge is bad, but I went ahead and performed the next step anyway. I disconnected the pink wire and the gauge went off-scale high beyond full, and fell back to ¼ tank when I grounded the wire. Since it did not drop to E, it seems to confirm the gauge needs to be replaced.

I also installed a box where the rear seat goes, using the seat holes. I still need to paint it.

http://www.topohiker.com/news/newspics/CUCV/Box.png
 

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Last edited:

Mainsail

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Puget Sound, WA
Now that the back is off the 1009 I need to do a few things to it before it goes back on.
Prime and paint the sliding windows
Remove the solid windows and replace them with sliders
Remove the old seals and clean it up for the new seals
Install the roof rails
Install the rooftop tent onto the roof rails

Despite the intermittent thunderstorms that kept rolling through I got the window frames primed and painted. The rails won't be here until Wednesday so I decided to pop the old windows out. This job is a lot easier down at floor level than up on the truck. They both popped out with little difficulty, so little difficulty that I had the whole rest of the afternoon left over. Can I get the sliding windows in? It's really a two person job, but I figured I would give it a go and if I couldn't manage it then I'd just wait until I had an extra set of hands. It took me a few hours, but I got them installed!

http://www.topohiker.com/news/newspics/CUCV/Window01.png
http://www.topohiker.com/news/newspics/CUCV/Window02.png
http://www.topohiker.com/news/newspics/CUCV/Window03.png
http://www.topohiker.com/news/newspics/CUCV/Window04.png
 

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Mainsail

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Puget Sound, WA
Busy busy busy for the last few days. I scraped the OEM seals off the bottom of the truck cap. Two down and two more to go. Today I installed the new side rails on the truck roof, which is in the garage. It's a lot easier to do with the roof on the floor of the garage.

The first hurdle is to find a center-line on the roof- not so easy when there really isn't anything from which to measure. I solved this by using some ribbon. I stretched a length of ribbon from one edge of the roof to the other, marked the edges, then folded the ribbon in half. Once I had two centers marked, I snapped a chalk-line.

From there it was easy enough to get the rails bolted down to the roof. Then I removed the tent rails from the top of the jeep (I hated them up there) and got them on the side rails. I hefted the tent onto the rails and got it bolted down.

http://www.topohiker.com/news/newspics/CUCV/RR01.png
http://www.topohiker.com/news/newspics/CUCV/RR02.png
http://www.topohiker.com/news/newspics/CUCV/RR03.png
http://www.topohiker.com/news/newspics/CUCV/RR04.png
 

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CycleJay

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re;

Took the top off to change out the seals as they're all cracked and dry rotted. Since the weather is absolutely fantastic I think I'll be leaving it off for a few weeks. I have some sliders I want to install, and a rack is going on top for the roof-top tent. That will all be easier on the floor of the garage than on top of the truck.

After a quick hike in the Olympics this weekend I took the 09 out for a little exploration. If you look really close at the pictures, you can just make out the camo truck there in the grass.

http://www.topohiker.com/Hikes/images/Camo03.png
http://www.topohiker.com/Hikes/images/Camo01.png
Hello Mainsail,

There is a truck in those pictures? Where?? LOL
 

Mainsail

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Puget Sound, WA

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donalloy1

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Martinez Ca
I got quite a bit done today. I got all the new seals installed so the roof can go back on the truck. After that I got to work installing the Solargizer. I installed the panel off the hood with rubber washers to isolate it from vibration.

http://www.topohiker.com/news/newspics/CUCV/Sol3.png
http://www.topohiker.com/news/newspics/CUCV/Sol4.png
http://www.topohiker.com/news/newspics/CUCV/Sol1.png
http://www.topohiker.com/news/newspics/CUCV/Sol2.png
Mainsail, thanks for all your posts. Nice to see all you have done.

Why install the Solargizer? Seems like many are doing this MOD for GP? Your thoughts... DMLII sends ....
 
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