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Another not starting post.

Warthog

Warthog

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Txhunter, each of the issues you are having problems with are covered in the troubleshooting section of the tech manuals.

Also when I have a new military truck that I am looking to find a part, I download the parts manual for that truck and thumb through the pictures until I find the item I have a question about.

The parts manual for the CUCVs have almost every item listed along with the GM part number. When you need a part give the GM part number to the parts guy and they can "usually" cross reference it to their parts.
 
richingalveston

richingalveston

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Questions from pics.

Do you have 24V at the buss bar next to the fuel filter. It looks like to many + wires going to the front of the truck. You have the slave start plug which has a poss and neg to the buss bar. you have the rear batt. connection and then you should have another set of cables going to the 24V buss bar that would be behind the seat (these cables should go down and not toward the front batt). Looks like they took the cables to the rear buss and re-used them to wire the front batt for 12V

looks like you may have a 12V truck. There are to many poss. cables connected to the buss unless you have a front 24V winch. No 24V at buss next to fuel filter means it has been converted to 12V. Are your batteries in series or parallel.


The other wiring looks correct at the glow plug relay with the resistor removed.

10V while under the load at the glow plugs would probably be correct if your batteries are not perfectly charged so your glow plugs are probably working. You have a meter, check them. Between the terminal and the engine block you should see between one and tree Ohms.

Check to see if both of your alternators are connected. If it is a 12V truck, make sure someone changed the starter to a 12v.

Please post a pic so we can see both batteries and the cables between them.

If your truck is turning over and you get no smoke or smell out of the exhaust then it is not getting fuel and is probably not an electrical issue.

hope this helps
Rich
 
T

txhunter27

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Okay I originally thought it was a fuel probably and now I am going back to that idea. The batteries have one has the positive, one battery has negative and there is a cable connecting the other neg and pos of the batteries together.
 
richingalveston

richingalveston

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sounds like it is wired for 24, but you have a lot of extra battery cables going places that I do not believe is the stock wiring.
check your shut-off valve on the IP. Will be pink wire plugged in just under the air cleaner. With the ignition on the wire should have 12V on it. You should here the solenoid clicking when connected to power. No clicking, tap on it a few times with a small hammer, they do get stuck. If it is clicking then you have to start checking the fuel delivery system. If it is getting fuel but no start, you will smell the fuel and normally see white smoke out the exhaust when cranking.

Mine sticks on, most of the time I can rev the engine and the vibration will shut it off, sometimes I have to get out, open the hood and tap it with a hammer to get it the truck to shut off.
 
richingalveston

richingalveston

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you should be getting 12+, it should be the same as your front battery minus a small amount.

Are you sure your batteries are good. Everything could be fine but if you do not spin the motor fast enough, it will not start.

700 CCA is little small for the truck, I believe they spec 1000 CCA. IF the 700's were new and fully charged they should start it but probably have a short life.

IF the solenoid clicks then the 10V is operating it. IF not then try a jumper from the battery to it to see if it starts clicking.
you can leave the charger on the front battery, it will help with the 12v stuff.

definitely a problem with only getting 10V
 
richingalveston

richingalveston

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one click for on, I do not think you hear anything when it shuts off. so each time you apply power it should click once.
it has to stay on with power to keep the truck running.

It is what turns the truck off.
 
richingalveston

richingalveston

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It should be working then.
You may want to do a clean of the electrical system. 10V is not right at the GP's or the fuel shutoff valve.
The low voltage could be just dirty connections.

From the pics, thing you need to check is your fusable link from the batteries to the 12v bus connection. The link could be partially burned and passing some voltage but not passing any load. The red wire with the yellow crimp connector. right past the connector there seams to be some damage to the wire. This could be causing your low voltage.

your low voltage may not be the only reason it is not starting but needs to be fixed before you can rule it out.

I would crimp and solder that connection and then heat shrink it to keep it from corroding at the connection.

I would replace the fusable link and the GP relay and go from there.
 
T

txhunter27

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I picked up some new glow plugs this morning because they probably need to be changed anyways. This afternoon I'm going to check the fuel system out better.
 
Al Harvey

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Go through the bleeding procedure again, if nothing, then I'd check to make sure your getting fuel to the filter. Could be the pump or pickup tube.
 
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