Another Tatra 813 joins the ranks

[tatra813]

damn Im jelous, nice dozer blade, ive been looking for one for a while, any more for sale. Ill also need the hydraulic pump?

 

[John C]

Sorry, there are no others for sale I know of at the moment.

Yes you would need the pump to go with it, you also need the spool valve block and the rear mounts for the blade which attach to the large casting at the end of the tubular chassis, there are two of them with six bolts each to the casting. The spool valve block is bolted to the front bumper and is connected to levers in the cab via rods, both the spool and pump are designed to be removed from the truck easily and have stowage placings on the blade itself, the pump is driven via a spline coupling on the front pulley which it just slides into, to remove just partially undo the four bolts around the pump body flange which holds it onto the front bumper and drive coupling, then rotate it slightly on the slotted bolt holes and it will then slide out, the blade also comes off quickly by removing two pins at the front and and four bolts on the rear of the frame which allows the end caps of the rear bushings to be removed so the blade can then be dismounted easily. The hydraulic system is self contained on the blade with all the pipes etc, even the hydraulic oil reservoir tank is built into the bottom section of the blade so no pipes need to be undone or removed when dismounting the blade.


Regards

 

[duncan]

Designed just as smart as the rest of the truck then. How do you get the control levers inside the cab though? Is there a place to stick rods through or something? I know I've seen some small oval shaped holes in the cab (about 5x2 cm) plugged with a little rubber thingy.
Get to think of it, there always seem to be 2 side by side. Never gave it more thought than "must be for something smart". This it?

 

[John C]

Yep, if you lift the grill up on that side and look underneath near to the dash you will see there are another two holes and two bolt holes for holding the lever linkage - only one lever operates the blade though and the other is a spare for additional equipment, the wafer to which this lever is connected has no pipes and it's just blanked off.


Regards

 

[tatra813]

If you dont end up using let me know, I have CASH for that setup.....

Dean

 

[John C]

Hi Dean

Sorry but I have already offered first shout on the blade to the guy who's just bought the truck that the blade originally came off, If he's no longer interested in it by the time I'm finished with it then I'll keep you in mind - I'll also keep you posted if I hear of any more for sale in the mean time.

Regards

 

[John C]

Has anyone serviced their air compressor yet? Just been looking at mine today and I can't seem to find anywhere on it to fill it with oil, however there does seem to be a drain plug on the bottom - Or is it just pumped with oil from the engine?


Thanks

 

[duncan]

Just checked here, one manual says "have it serviced in workshop", and the other mentions every air related bit except the compressor

 

[John C]

Thanks, I'm going to take it off soon anyway as I think it's only working on one pot, hopefully it's just stuck vales. Looking closer it doesn't seem to be fed with oil from the engine, so it must just be lubricated by what oil is held in the bottom of the case.

Typical this assembly is part of the Tatra closed shop policy

Regards

 

[duncan]

More likely my workshop manual is incomplete. KNowing tatra it cant be complicated anyway.

The air pressure regulator on the back of the truck, near the anti freeze pump, has a special oil-seperator bit that you need to drain regularly, so theres probably a lot of oil in the compressor

 

[John C]

Can anyone tell me what type of batteries best fit the battery trays of the Tatra, the two I have in there at the moment are 622 type I think but they are a little small (short) and need some wood under them to stop them falling through the frame of the holder, would 332's etc fit any better?

 

[duncan]

Theyre quite big and expensive, thats all I remember.. set me back around 600 euro. I can measure them tomorow if you want

 

[John C]

Yes, if you could that would be great, or if you could get the type number off them as they all come in standard sizes depending on their type i.e. type 622 = 509mm L x 216W x 207H
/ type 623 = 513 x 617 x 225 / type 624 = 518 x 276 x 240 etc etc

Regards

 

[duncan]

Here you go

Bosch "700 038 105", LxWxH: 518 x 276 x 242

 

[duncan]

Cant have enough 813 Still waiting for my cab to arrive

 

[tatra813]

Cant have enough 813 Still waiting for my cab to arrive

Who did you end up buying your cab thru?

 

[duncan]

Going with MortarInvestments. The delays are because the other 813 owner in the country wanted a cab and some parts as well, and we tried to do the deal together. He seems to have disappeared now though, so Im continuing the deal on my own.

 

[John C]

Thanks Duncan, that's very good info - I need to get new ones for mine soon as the ones on it ain't very good, the previous owner had been running the truck without a generator belt on the batteries only used to get charged with jump leads every so often, they must have spent most of their time nearly flat which hasn't done them any good - I've replaced the belt now but unless the truck runs for a while before turning the engine off there isn't enough charge to start her next time.

 

[duncan]

You can get severly discharged (damaged) batteries back to live by hooking them to a good battery with the polarity reversed (wires crossed). Leave connected like that overnight, and the dead battery might come to life again.

I'm not a big fan of this technique though... in my experience batteries that have been completely discharged will never be 100% reliable again, no matter what you do to it. The ship wharf next door uses it to revive batteries in yachts that have been stored during the winter, it really does work.

It's a good temporary fix, but replace them when possible.

 

[tatra813]

remember that running the truck with low batteries can get you in trouble. I got stuck in them middle of nowhere and my truck was stuck in neutral. The neutral selenoid needs power to pull in and if there is no electrical power or low power you will be in trouble. Im thinking about piping a manual bypass valve around the current selenoid to bypass some air to engage the drivetrain.
The selenoid engages and lets air into the gearbox to engage the axles.