Any quality diesel fuel system cleaners?

[Light in the Dark]

Ok so I got a little bit of time earlier to pull some sheet metal on both machines. In looking at the documentation in the -24 on this, the float tube and the low fuel level/auxiliary fuel pump float switch appear to be separate units (one installed in the other)... but what I pulled out seems to be a single device? I didn't want to be a jack@ss and just assume its a two piece assembly like the line drawing shows, and start yanking to separate them.

For those that have dealt with this particular component before... whats the scoop? It appears the wires are potted into the top of the device, and my assumption is that its wired down to an internal sensor at the end of the tube assembly. Hats off to the engineers who designed captive nuts on the front end of these generators! Would it have killed them to use them across ALL the sheet metal??

 

[boatman69]

It is one piece.

 

[Light in the Dark]

I wonder if this part was revised at some point? The document I have can be seen here. Maybe I need to seek out a newer document... or maybe I'm just looking at it wrong?

Edit: I think I am... I think my interpretation of the line passing through the gasket was of a space... where its just showing continuity while passing through something else.

 

[boatman69]

Engineering diagram it is one piece. It is non serviceable.

 

[Guyfang]

Short rundown on the switches. There are two switches, (FL-1 and FL-2) they are encased in separate glass tubes, in the stem. The float, has three magnets imbedded in the material that makes up the float. When the float passes over the contacts, the magnetic force, from the imbedded magnets closes the switch contacts.

Some time you can fix them, when it's just a float problem. Sometimes the magnets fall out, or the floats come apart. But that means you need another non op switch to cannibalize from. In the old MEP-002 to MEP-006, the float switches were throw away, but we often took 3-4 bad ones, and managed to make a good one or two, if we were lucky. But this switch, has the bend in it, and I never even tried to fool with it.

 

[Light in the Dark]

I found a new one on that big auction site for $70. Gonna take the unit from the 803 today and see if the problem disappears (same for the module mounted that hooks to this... swap and test if this part proves to be OK).

 

[dependable]

On the topic of fuel lubricity additives, aren't the more modern name branded (like Shell) ULSD fuels supposed to have lubricity additives? They say they do, but I have no way to test myself.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Short rundown on the switches. There are two switches, (FL-1 and FL-2) they are encased in separate glass tubes, in the stem. The float, has three magnets imbedded in the material that makes up the float. When the float passes over the contacts, the magnetic force, from the imbedded magnets closes the switch contacts.

Some time you can fix them, when it's just a float problem. Sometimes the magnets fall out, or the floats come apart. But that means you need another non op switch to cannibalize from. In the old MEP-002 to MEP-006, the float switches were throw away, but we often took 3-4 bad ones, and managed to make a good one or two, if we were lucky. But this switch, has the bend in it, and I never even tried to fool with it.

So I pulled the float assembly out of the 803... and its not the same part as what I pulled out of the 802. I thought I had read earlier in the thread that you mentioned to swap them over (assuming this was one of the multitude of common parts between the machines). Looks like that test isnt going to happen. I will test the box on the fender though, to see if that fixes the fault. I will see if there are testing instructions on the float assembly in the manual too (thought I saw them briefly last night).

 

[Light in the Dark]

So it seems the culprit is the float assembly. I took the fuel float module out of my working 803 and put it into the 802... same no fuel condition (almost immediately). So I took the one from the 802 and into the 03 she went... seems to run fine!

Time to go hunt one down... the unit on fleabay I saw was for an 803. I hope to have this set up for the weekend. Thanks again for all of your help in troubleshooting this.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Found the float assembly for $20 on fleabay, new (made an offer).

 

[Guyfang]

So I pulled the float assembly out of the 803... and its not the same part as what I pulled out of the 802. I thought I had read earlier in the thread that you mentioned to swap them over (assuming this was one of the multitude of common parts between the machines). Looks like that test isnt going to happen. I will test the box on the fender though, to see if that fixes the fault. I will see if there are testing instructions on the float assembly in the manual too (thought I saw them briefly last night).

Show me some pictures. Let's look at what is different. There are several different types of such switches, that DO NOT interchange. So maybe someone just put on in, because it looks close.

OK, went back to take a look see. The 5&10 KW have different part numbers for the float switch. So If I said here or in another thread someplace that they were the same, I was wrong.


5 KW Float switch Part number: 88-20061, NSN 5930-01-370-1541
10 KW Float switch Part Number: 88-20062, NSN 5930-01-384-3564

 

[boatman69]

Good call Chief!

 

[rustystud]

On the topic of fuel lubricity additives, aren't the more modern name branded (like Shell) ULSD fuels supposed to have lubricity additives? They say they do, but I have no way to test myself.

Yes they have added some additives to the fuel, but not near enough for our vehicles. The modern injection pumps are designed to operate with the low sulfur fuels, so not much additives is needed for them. Our old injection pumps and injectors are a totally different story.
On the new stuff I still would add some additives to the fuel. My brother just had to replace all 8 of his DuraMax injectors in his 2014 truck. At the dealership they warned him to always add some fuel additives to every tank. That was just this January. My brother lives with his wife in a fifth wheel trailer and travels across the states all the time. He only spends a month at most in any one place. So he adds up a lot of travel time on his vehicle.
So again, the bottom line. Always add some fuel additive with enough lubricity qualities for your engine.

 

[dependable]

Thanks for the reply. I have read a lot about it both ways, and agree some additive for the older stuff is good,. I used to run B-? (sticker on pump said 5-20) but the price locally got out of hand for the quantity I use.

I do have a tier 4 in a 2015 mini loader with an exhaust regen system that says not to use anything but ULSD (a lot of motors seem to say that if you read their manuals). I hesitate to do anything that would gum that up.

 

[rustystud]

Thanks for the reply. I have read a lot about it both ways, and agree some additive for the older stuff is good,. I used to run B-? (sticker on pump said 5-20) but the price locally got out of hand for the quantity I use.

I do have a tier 4 in a 2015 mini loader with an exhaust regen system that says not to use anything but ULSD (a lot of motors seem to say that if you read their manuals). I hesitate to do anything that would gum that up.

All diesel engines say to use ULSD as that is the law. Doesn't mean it's the best thing to do though. Your "regen" system will handle any additives you add without "gumming" up the system.

 

[Kenny0]

If it does it has to be labeled as such. I've not seen it indicated on any of the normal pumps I frequent. Lubricity is absolutely a problem. That is the other reason I add a bit of biodiesel to my generator tanks. For lubricity you only need 1-2%.

Actually at a federal level B5 does not have to be labeled at the pump, B6 and above does have to be labeled. States could have different labeling requirements for B5. Or stations could label pumps as B5 even though they don't have to. reference https://www.afdc.energy.gov/fuels/biodiesel_blends.html

 

[Kenny0]

I've found that 6.5kw restive is about the limit of a good running 802. It will bog down above that.

One thing to remember is 6.5kw restive is 130% of the units rating. The gauge will not read restive loads correctly. It will read around 100% load even though the actual load is much higher than that.

Looks like your gauge is very close. Remember the generator load meter indicates current that the generator produces which is rated at 26 amps. Any time that meter reads 100% the generator will be outputting 26 amps. At 6.24kw resistive load, the meter should read 100% and the generator will be putting out 26A. Generator can run 24/7 with this load. With a 5kw inductive load with 0.8 power factor, the meter will be indicating 100% the generator output will be 26A. This would also be a 24/7 load. With 3.744kw inductive load with a power factor of 0.6 the meter will read 100% and the generator output will be 26A. This will also be a 24/7 load. This is why the higher power factor is always the best. The extra current produced is disipated as heat. The lower the power factor the more power has to be disipated as heat.

 

[Grizzlypower2001]

What about PRI-D ?? Does it take care of lubricity and added cetane boost?? For the price it should be majical!! $30 for 16 oz. bottle. 1oz. per 15 gallons. Would I still have to add some 2 stroke oil??

Do you use pri-d? I did my research and thought it was my best choice. However talking to another pri-d user, it seems that it creates a film or crust on items (in the tank). I had a fuel leak on my MEP-802 drained the tank and found the inside of the plastic tank has a sediment crust on the bottom and the filler neck, to the point I have to wire brush it off.

Was wondering if this is preventable or should I stop using it.

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk

 

[rustystud]

Do you use pri-d? I did my research and thought it was my best choice. However talking to another pri-d user, it seems that it creates a film or crust on items (in the tank). I had a fuel leak on my MEP-802 drained the tank and found the inside of the plastic tank has a sediment crust on the bottom and the filler neck, to the point I have to wire brush it off.

Was wondering if this is preventable or should I stop using it.

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk

I've used "Pri-D" for over a decade now and have had no problems. I started with totally clean tanks though. Maybe some residue from the past interacts with the "Pri-D" . Either way though I would continue to use the "Pri-D" as it is the best on the market at this time.