Anyone know what type of Schrader valve the A/C system uses?

[diesel_dave]

So, just learned a $20 lesson (two cans of r134a) and probably ripped a hole in the atmosphere but long story short, there were no schrader valves installed on the high and low service ports. I've already purchased a few types and they have all been wrong. Anyone know what I need to be looking for so I don't have to keep driving down to autozone? Thanks in advance!

 

[simp5782]

So, just learned a $20 lesson (two cans of r134a) and probably ripped a hole in the atmosphere but long story short, there were no schrader valves installed on the high and low service ports. I've already purchased a few types and they have all been wrong. Anyone know what I need to be looking for so I don't have to keep driving down to autozone? Thanks in advance!

There are about 11 or 12 different types of shrader valves for AC units. There is a kit available with all of them.

134 doesn't hurt the atmosphere. Amazing how something designed as ozone layer friendly all the sudden becomes a villain cause it's cheap to produce and now we need something that is more costly. The government would fine everyone for any AC leak if they could get it to stand up in court

 

[diesel_dave]

There are about 11 or 12 different types of shrader valves for AC units. There is a kit available with all of them.

134 doesn't hurt the atmosphere. Amazing how something designed as ozone layer friendly all the sudden becomes a villain cause it's cheap to produce and now we need something that is more costly. The government would fine everyone for any AC leak if they could get it to stand up in court

Dang. I'm sure I'll end up buying 10 different types before I find the correct one then.

 

[Mogman]

None of it hurts the atmosphere, "freon 12" is heavier than air, goes straight into the ground, it was all BS so someone could feel important

 

[diesel_dave]

Here are some pics of the service ports if that helps narrow it down at all.

 

[simp5782]

Dang. I'm sure I'll end up buying 10 different types before I find the correct one then.

134 pcs Assortment A/C Schrader Valves R134a kit of 11 kinds of AC valve Cores | eBay

You get exactly what you see in the pictures. The bigger sizes (24 pieces ) are easy to count from the pictures: 1,1,1 ,2,4,5,10. It includes 99% of the valves that fit the cars driven in the USA. More of the most popular and less of the less popular valves.

www.ebay.com

 

[diesel_dave]

134 pcs Assortment A/C Schrader Valves R134a kit of 11 kinds of AC valve Cores | eBay

You get exactly what you see in the pictures. The bigger sizes (24 pieces ) are easy to count from the pictures: 1,1,1 ,2,4,5,10. It includes 99% of the valves that fit the cars driven in the USA. More of the most popular and less of the less popular valves.

www.ebay.com

Haha yep I've got something similar sitting in my Amazon cart right now. I'll wait a bit to see if anyone knows what specific one before ordering a bazillion of random ones I'll never use.

 

[simp5782]

Haha yep I've got something similar sitting in my Amazon cart right now. I'll wait a bit to see if anyone knows what specific one before ordering a bazillion of random ones I'll never use.

Take out. 4 or 6 and sell the rest in the same pack for the same price

 

[Action]

Too bad the manifold only has one port. It is just $20 new.

 

[cjcottrill]

I’m sure you will get some good advice but, if the core has been missing for a while I would recommend you take it to a service shop and have a vacuum pulled on the system before it is charged. Moisture will accumulate in the system if has been open to the atmosphere. That little bit of moisture can be fatal at an A/C compressor. I have purged systems with nitrogen, installed a new filter dryer then pulled a deep vacuum on the system before adding refrigerant.


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[Action]

And vacuum will not boil the water out of the dryer. Replace it and then vacuum as soon as possible. You can borrow the vacuum pump from auto parts stores. As well as the gauge set.

 

[diesel_dave]

Thanks for the help everyone. I found the type of valve core that fits. It's the small style that you can find at any auto parts store. I didn't think it was right at first because it looked like it would fall right down the hole. I carefully lowered one in and it threaded right in no problem. I ordered a manifold set and vacuum pump on Amazon just for this and I'm glad I did because I've had to vacuum it down like 6 times so far. Since I didn't know the valves were missing this whole time, it was definitely open to the atmosphere for probably years. Thankfully its been nice and dry at Yermo and it's dry here in Utah. I vacuumed it down and it set at like 25 in Hg for over 24 hours so hopefully most of the moisture is out by now. I guess I'll just run it until something blows and then go from there.

 

[Elijah95]

None of it hurts the atmosphere, "freon 12" is heavier than air, goes straight into the ground, it was all BS so someone could feel important

You should see the propaganda inside a EPA test for HVAC licensing.

As a result of going “eco friendly”, we are now working on R290 units. Refrigerant grade propane -_-

Don’t mean to hijack the thread, good luck op. Shouldn’t be terribly bad to get fixed


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[TOBASH]

I’m sure you will get some good advice but, if the core has been missing for a while I would recommend you take it to a service shop and have a vacuum pulled on the system before it is charged. Moisture will accumulate in the system if has been open to the atmosphere. That little bit of moisture can be fatal at an A/C compressor. I have purged systems with nitrogen, installed a new filter dryer then pulled a deep vacuum on the system before adding refrigerant.


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I’m concerned about dust and particulates that entered the system. It needs a cleaning IMHO.

 

[Action]

Are you just guessing at how much oil is in the system?

 

[diesel_dave]

No argument from me that there is probably some amount of junk that got in there over the years. For the oil, it didn't appear that any had leaked out anywhere until I blew what I guessed to be about an ounce out when the refrigerant all came blasting back out the service port. I added an ounce of PAG oil back in during the last r134a fill.

Yes, I understand this isn't the recommended way to go about this but honestly I'm just just surprised it actually works at all. The question is, how long will it keep working with whatever crap got in there? Why were the valve cores removed from the service ports? Why were several of the hoses loosened up from the manifold blocks? I have no idea what the Marines were doing with this thing. Haha. When the compressor inevitably dies, I'll replace it and the drier and flush the whole system and add the right amount of oil. For now, I'm just treating it like a bonus that it works.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Dirt
wrong PAG oil
no PAG oil
old dryers

what could possibly go wrong…LOL

the Mfg of the compressor dictates the pag oil viscocity, Sanden uses a PAG15, R4 compressor uses a PAG150, check The dreaded TM.

 

[diesel_dave]

Dirt
wrong PAG oil
no PAG oil
old dryers

what could possibly go wrong…LOL

the Mfg of the compressor dictates the pag oil viscocity, Sanden uses a PAG15, R4 compressor uses a PAG150, check The dreaded TM.

Definitely a foregone conclusion that it's only a matter of time before she blows. That compressor was probably run for hours over the years with the service ports completely open to the atmosphere (yes, it runs even when there is no pressure in the system for some reason, bad pressure switch probably). It made a weird sound any time I had turned it on and now it's clear that was because it was pumping air the whole time. I used PAG 100 when I put some back in. Better than nothing I guess. I'll enjoy it while it works then do it right when it gives up the ghost. No sense in me spending the time and money to replace the drier and flush the entire system of the oil dirty oil if the compressor is gonna grenade shortly afterwards, anyways. At least in my opinion.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Definitely a foregone conclusion that it's only a matter of time before she blows. That compressor was probably run for hours over the years with the service ports completely open to the atmosphere (yes, it runs even when there is no pressure in the system for some reason, bad pressure switch probably). It made a weird sound any time I had turned it on and now it's clear that was because it was pumping air the whole time. I used PAG 100 when I put some back in. Better than nothing I guess. I'll enjoy it while it works then do it right when it gives up the ghost. No sense in me spending the time and money to replace the drier and flush the entire system of the oil dirty oil if the compressor is gonna grenade shortly afterwards, anyways. At least in my opinion.

the only way that compressor is running when off is if it’s already bad or the clutch is stuck.
yes, I bad low pressure switch, but never had one bad in this setup.

 

[diesel_dave]

the only way that compressor is running when off is if it’s already bad or the clutch is stuck.
yes, I bad low pressure switch, but never had one bad in this setup.

It does engage and disengage with the switch so the clutch is working. But yes, it would run even with no pressure in the system. It does blow nice cold air. Around 20 psi low side and 110 high side with 65 degree ambient temps.