Arctic Fuel Burning Heater Install

[baxter]

Thanks for all the ideas. I have run it up to the 3min shown on the instruction plate, i will top off my tank and try again and then if it still wont work Ill put air to it and see if I got a leak thanks guys.
Vaughn

 

[800summit]

I dont want to dissapoint atankersdad, but when I use my artic heater, I always use hi until it gives me the yellow lite light, then I switch it to low so I dont melt or crack anything.

 

[res0wc18]

does anyone have the pdf or documents for these arctic kits?

Where can you still buy a kit? Price?

 

[atankersdad]

800Summitt, thanks for the info. I will try it tomorrow ans see if mine will start in high. I have always followed the run instructions on the door stencil. I am open to new ways to get to the same end point.. I will post results tomorrow.

 

[baxter]

resOwc18 pm me if interested I have 2 left.
baxter

 

[cranetruck]

The 30,000 BTU units can be started in "HI" according to the instructions I have, but there may be a problem with the 60,000 BTU ones.
"HI" will let more fuel in to soak the wick faster (the fan still runs in normal start speed), but the bigger units may present a fire/explosion hazard considering that they can run on gasoline also....

Operating and service instructions are usually part of the vehicle -10 or -20 TMs respectively or -34.

 

[wb1895]

Does burning alternitive fuels affect the heaters? Just wondering if it restricts the use of any of the multi fuel options.

 

[cranetruck]

The fuel burning heaters are calibrated for gasoline or diesel and if you have any experience with wick operated heaters or lamps in general, you know that fuel purity is essential, just look at some of the "Ultra pure" lamp oils (kerosene) sold in stores.
Dirty fuels will eventually make the wick non-functional with carbon build-up. Biodiesel, veggie oil and used motor oils should not be used, IMHO.

The original heaters were running on gasoline only and modifications were later (1950 something) made to the vaporizer to enable them to burn diesel.

 

[cranetruck]

Only "HI" and "LO". Shutters in the duct works control where the air goes.

 

[baxter]

We finally got the heater running last night but you can here it ticking like the starter is still going is this normal .
Vaughn

 

[cranetruck]

After it gets hot enough, the "transfer" switch disconnects the igniter and the fan will run at its normal (non-starting) speed. The ticking could simply be expanding sheet metal.

 

[coyotegray]

We finally got the heater running last night but you can here it ticking like the starter is still going is this normal .
Vaughn

I would bet that the ticking is the fuel pump at pressure. It will run and when it reaches pressure it will tick.

I just finished my install and I have power, I have fuel but no fire.

Does anyone know if the heater will start in "warm" weather"?
It's only about 103 F here today but I thought the heater might have a thermostat to keep it from running in warm weather..


Anyone know the TM#..?

Thanks,
Andy.

 

[baxter]

I had my heater running last night with no problems. I did have trouble until I got the air out of the system.
Vaughn

 

[coyotegray]

I had my heater running last night with no problems. I did have trouble until I got the air out of the system.
Vaughn

I assumed that the nipple above the fuel inlet was a bleeder valve. I bled it for several minutes. At first I got some small bubbles and then it ran clear.

Still no fire!!

Andy...

 

[cranetruck]

There is no thermostat that turn it off in warm weather, it will run.
In cold weather or temps below approx 45°F, the fuel heater thermostat on the fuel valve will turn on to heat the fuel.

To know if you actually have fuel flow, you would have to remove the fuel valve and check the calibration, which should be about 15 cc/minute. I posted the procedure a year ago.
Before starting always push the "press-to-test" light on the control box to make sure you have 24 volt power.

 

[coyotegray]

There is no thermostat that turn it off in warm weather, it will run.
In cold weather or temps below approx 45°F, the fuel heater thermostat on the fuel valve will turn on to heat the fuel.

To know if you actually have fuel flow, you would have to remove the fuel valve and check the calibration, which should be about 15 cc/minute. I posted the procedure a year ago.
Before starting always push the "press-to-test" light on the control box to make sure you have 24 volt power.

The light works.
I searched and could not find the procdure...

Can you repost it..?

Thanks,
Andy.

 

[coyotegray]

Ok, I found a thread where Mangus suggested cleaning the fuel control pump. I removed it from the heater, and cleaned all the orange crap out of it. Cleaned all the passages and reassembled. The solenoid now clicks when pressing start, didn't do that before but still no fire. I removed the fuel line from the pump to the heater core. The fuel control is not providing fuel to the heater core at all .

I’m going to try and jump B and see what happens.

Any ideas..?

Thanks,
Andy.

 

[cranetruck]

This thread should give you some clues.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/auxillary-equipment/23014-tested-fuel-burning-heaters-today.html

 

[coyotegray]

We have fire!!
I had negative results after cleaning and reassembling it and I was getting frustrated so I walked away for a few hours. I decided to walk out and give it one more try for the night and it fired right up.

I would highly suggest that anyone installing a used or even NOS heater just go ahead and clean the fuel control. When I cleaned it, it looked like they had bench tested it and didn't get all the fuel out and it caused varnish and other crud.

I think I may fire it up every month or so to help keep it clean...

Thanks for the help...

Andy..

 

[coyotegray]

Just leave your window down and wear a t shirt when its 30 below and you will be fine. Nothing to hard about it, you will have to remove your fuel pump to instal a pickup in the tank, or take the brass 90 with the kit and solder a 3/16" (I think) into the 90, you will have to take a drill bit and ream it out a little, this will save you from pulling the tank pump if you don't want to. The heat is nice, you can never have to much heat, thats why they make off switches and windows

From the way they designed the installation of the fuel pickup you can tell it was an engineer and not a mechanic. I purchased m-m and f-f fittings and opened up the m-m a little for the pickup tube and soldered it. Then flipped the elbow they included and used the f-f fitting. Works like a charm. Thanks for the idea....

Andy..