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Be Jealous!

Croatan_Kid

Member
691
2
18
Location
New Bern, NC
The motor mounts and crossmember came from Tennessee Diesel Conversions. I actually traded him (Scott Oswalt) a Warn 8274 winch. I didn't use the crossmemer that came with the motor mounts because I had already had one made from some measurements I had taken of the motor and oil pan, plus is was way beefier. Used to, you had to lift a Chevy 4" to put a Cummins in it, but Scott re-designed his mounts (if for no other reason but to prove it could be done) to make if fit with absolutely no suspension lift!

The transmission crossmember is a stock Chevy piece from an 80s model K-10 with a 700R4 trans and NP208 transfer case and has a good bit of drop on the passenger side to clear the NP205. I used a stock transmission mount from a 1999 K-2500 with a 5 speed manual transmission. The transfer case (round pattern NP205) is rather hard to find and expensive when you do as they were only made from 85-91 in GM 1-ton trucks. Of course, my experiences are with a manual transmission. I'm pretty sure an automatic would have been a cake walk. You just have to know what vehicle certain parts came from so you can get mounts or whatever it is that you need, it's pretty easy.

As you can see, I've spent a considerable amount of time and money on this project, but no matter how much I spend, you can't buy any production model truck with these options....or hardly any new truck for that matter. I have about 13,000 in the truck total. That's the purchase price, lift/tires, all other mods and all the Cummin's swap parts. About $8,000 of that is just the Cummins and associated parts.


There's no way you could build (or probably afford to build) a reliable 6.2 that could come anywhere close to the performance (or again, reliability) of even a stock Cummins. Mine was 160hp and 400tq in stock form. I put on a different turbo, exhaust, fuel pin, governor spring, lift pump, and injectors and should be between 300-350hp and 600-700tq I believe. I'll get the real numbers after it gets running and I get the chance to dyno it. Also, I should go from my 13-14 mpg with the 6.2 and 700R4 to about 18-20 with the CTD and NV4500.


So....was it cheap? Hell No!
Would I recommend it? Very much, it's a fun project.
Am I glad I did it? You bet your sweet ass!
Would I do it again? Probably if I could afford it :roll:


All this was just off the top of my head, I'm at school right now so I might have overlooked some things.
 

AJMBLAZER

New member
2,688
8
0
Location
Paducah, KY
Looks good man.

Comparing a 6.2L and a Cummins is sort of like comparing a 292 I6 and a 454 Big Block. Just two completely different animals for completely different things.

6.2L = diesel engine meant to replace small block V8 gasser motors in early 80's GM trucks
5.9L = diesel dump truck, RV, and bus engine shoehorned into a light duty truck
 

Croatan_Kid

Member
691
2
18
Location
New Bern, NC
Which TMs deal with the CUCV electricals system and engine wiring harness? I'm trying to figure out the wiring on this thing so I can fire it up and get some motivation!
 

wallew

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,520
18
38
Location
San Angelo, Tx USA Planet Earth
C_K,
I guess the real question then is, if someone offered you say $15k -$20k for it, would you sell it?

Because that's the true mark of a builder. You build it. Someone else with more money than brains or time pays you twice what you have in it.

So, would you or would you not sell it if the price were 'right'?

Not for me for sure, as I've got my two. Both stock.

But I know folks that WOULD drop money on a build like yours.

So, curious minds want to know.

Would you sell it?

Note: I LOVE what you did. It's folks like you that inspire all of us. At 19? You've got a great life in front of you.
 

Crash_AF

Active member
1,530
7
38
Location
Colorado Springs, CO
The wiring for a 6B is dirt simple, and compatible with the Chevy. I'm assuming that you are changing to a 12V system.

Take the purple wire that runs out of the main harness from the firewall behind the engine and hook it to the starter solenoid. Take the pink wire that runs up the engine harness to the 6.2 injection pump and hook it to the fuel solenoid on the VP pump.

The alternator might take a little finagling depending on what you're using, but those two wires will get you running. You can even eliminate the troublesome starter relay under the dash by jumping the purple/white to the purple wire in the plug.

I would also recommend hooking up the intake heater grid on the 6B to the stock glow plug relay and if you can find a compatible fitting on the engine for the temp sensor, reuse the entire glow plug controller system. It will run the grid heaters and even the wait light will work as original.

The TM with the wiring diagrams is 9-2320-289-20. The diagrams are in Appendix F at the back.

Nice job on the truck BTW. I'm considering a 4BT conversion on a 1009 at some point, but that's many years and a change in financial status away. If you need any wiring help, drop me a line.

Later,
Joe
 

Croatan_Kid

Member
691
2
18
Location
New Bern, NC
Well...one thing that made me want to do it was a guy on another forum....so...I just decided to do it! It's my money....I'm single and live at home...so why not?! Plus I'm going to school to be a machinist, so you'll see pictures of lots of one-off pieces to decorate this motor!

Now...for the big question....would I ever sell it?


The realistic answer is not only no....but HELL NO!

Now (unrealistically) ....if somebody offered me three (or more) large sacks full of money, I would hand him the keys and say "good day sir!" :-D


I've put too much time, money, sweat, blood and....money into this thing to ever think about getting rid of it. Besides, it was hard enough to find a running, unmolested, M1008 from GL as close as this one was.
 

Croatan_Kid

Member
691
2
18
Location
New Bern, NC
There's got to be something under the dash that's giving me trouble...when I hit the starter, it cranks beautifully, but when I turn the key off, the starter keeps going!

I even went as far as using a remote starter with the solenoid wire unhooked....and it still did it!


Bad starter? :?:
 

Crash_AF

Active member
1,530
7
38
Location
Colorado Springs, CO
If the solenoid wire was unhooked, it's definitely a starter problem. My guess would be that the bendix is sticking and causing the contacts to stay closed. You might be able to get away with just having the solenoid and/or bendix cleaned, but you might just want to have the starter rebuilt to be safe.

Just to be sure, you did rewire the batteries to provide 12V to the starter right? If it's still 24V, that might be the cause of your problems.

Later,
Joe
 

Croatan_Kid

Member
691
2
18
Location
New Bern, NC
The bendix is sticking in the starter. I took the 1993 starter and swapped the internals over to the 1994 starter and it still did the same thing.

Perhaps the bore in the solenoid is worn and making it cock over sideways and stick or something like that. Of course, the contacts were worn and burnt all to hell, so I swapped those out with the ones in the old starter and they worked much better, but it still sticks. I'm going to go take it to be looked at Monday and hopefully it'll be an easy (read: CHEAP!) fix. Normally, I would just opt to buy a new one and be done with it, but I have two summer trips coming up, a truck payment, and a loan payment...so a $250 starter is out of the question.


Oh...my driveshaft came in today, so I bolted that up. It's freaking awesome! :-D
 

Croatan_Kid

Member
691
2
18
Location
New Bern, NC
Lots of small stuff now....it's gunna take a few more days, but I should be able to move it under its own power by Saturday and I hope to start driving it again by the middle of next week.
 

Croatan_Kid

Member
691
2
18
Location
New Bern, NC
I hooked up the powersteering lines, put on my hydro assist steering stuff, filled it up, put in the radiator and fan, then filled that up and ran it for about 45 minutes. No leaks :-D Now I need to do the exhaust, wiring, intercooler and....some other small things. I should be able to drive it by the end of this week!!! :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:
 

littlebob

New member
1,548
26
0
Location
Baton Rouge LA
Didn't check the whole build thread, but from this thread it looks like you did a lot of research and put a lot of time in to making it right. Put it into a format you can sell with a few pieces that you can make money on in kit form when your done. You deserve at least enough to cover all your research. can't wait to see the final form, keep up the good work!
 
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