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Been sittin' awhile- How to start?

appalacious

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Perry, GA
Besides lots of prayer, of course.
This truck has been sitting for probably 18 months.
What are the standard jobs to do?
I'm expecting to hear alot about fuel filters and such.

Thanks,
J
 

DanMartin

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Hillsboro, Oregon (USA)
Change all fluids (all! Including fuel), filters, give it a tune up (out-of-tune parts will only add to the complexity of dealing with any issues that come up, so get that out of the way now), fresh battery, clean and check all connections/grounds for said battery, inspect all fuel and brake likes for cracks (and replace if necessary), then get in an fire it up!
 

appalacious

New member
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Perry, GA
Change all fluids (all! Including fuel), filters, give it a tune up (out-of-tune parts will only add to the complexity of dealing with any issues that come up, so get that out of the way now), fresh battery, clean and check all connections/grounds for said battery, inspect all fuel and brake likes for cracks (and replace if necessary), then get in an fire it up!
I've never given a tune up to a diesel. Whats included?
J
 

maddawg308

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Front Royal, VA
Diesel should be good after 18 months, but it might help to change the filters, and have spares just in case.

Here's my list:

ALL filters, and couple couple of each
ALL new fluids
new batteries
check tire pressure
grease gun and grease just in case a joint needs lube
spare bulbs, fuzes
fire extinguisher (just in case)
duct tape, baling wire, WD40 (always handy)
beer (same)
plenty of rags
more beer (for when you get home)

oh, and take some pictures, dammit!
 

LanceRobson

Well-known member
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Location
Pinnacle, Stokes County, NC
Diesel fuel is usually OK for that amount of time. Depending on the fuel level you generally have two choices.

One school of thought is to top up the tank with fresh fuel to dilute the old fuel. Another is to run it with the old fuel (and maybe some cetane booster) and get the old fuel out of the system quicker. I tend towards the second approach and, unless there's a lot of crud or water when I check the filter, I'll look to get the old fuel burned off prior to changing the fuel filter.

As long as the fluid levels are up and everything passes the look, feel, smell test, I'd charge the batteries (or be ready to slave it) bleed the fuel line at the fuel filter bleed screw and crank it up.

I wouldn't drive it very far without doing a complete "annual" service.

Be prepared to deal with the usual fluid and filter changes, belts and transmission vacuum lines as needed. I'd run down that list ASAP, but would want to know if it's going to start and run first, so I knew the full extent of what I'm facing.

Assume the brakes will need service. It is more than likely that the drums are pretty rusty. The springs, pivots and parking brake cables could be rusty. I wouldn't touch the parking brake until after checking the rear brakes and cables. You don't want to set the parking brake and have it freeze up due to corrosion.

If the vehicle doesn't have silicone brake fluid, flush it and bleed it soon. Regular brake fluid is very hygroscopic and will likely be contaminated. Heck, flush and bleed it soon anyway.

Depending on what you know about it's maintenance history, I'd consider a preemptive replacement of the glow plugs at an early date. My theory is that for a minimal cost I know that's one less thing that I need to keep wondering about.

When you drive it, you'll likely feel flat spots from the tires taking a "set". Drive it slowly until they go away.

As time and budget permit, get caught up on a chassis lube, bearing and hub lube etc.

There's a good chance that the lubricating compounds and corrosion inhibitors in the coolant are shot. If you don't have a way to check that, or recharge them, flush and refill the cooling system soon.

Don't be surprised if the thermostat has given up the ghost.

Based on how it acts when you crank it up and a good thoughtful inspection, you can set up the timing and sequence of all this.

If you are not already getting commercial pricing at your parts supplier, ask! My experience has been that the local store that's been around forever will usually give you commercial pricing long before the bright shiny chain stores.

Simply explaining to the magager that you are a collector, commiting do your business with them and asking for a discount will go a long way to keeping the hobby more affordable.

Good luck

Lance
 

ralbelt

Active member
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Location
West Warwick, R.I.
I just got my m1008 fired up yesterday after picking it up from GL, I don,t know how long it sat but was probably about a year. I checked engine fluids charged the batteries looked wiring and fuel system over and cranked it over. Temp was about 20 degrees, no start, recharged the batteries( they are old ) checked the glow plugs ( one bad) and tried again, again no go. Charged the batteries next day temp is about 30 degrees, put a kerosene torpedo heater under the front end, and sprayed the intake with some WD40. cycled the glow plugs 3 times and she fired up after the second try. Found out the military was working on the tranny, cooling lines disconnected and fly wheel inspection cover loose , made quite a racket{noisy},but the engine ran and sounded good, now to find out what the military was trying to fix.

At least now I know what I have to deal with, Good Luck with yours. If it starts and moves then recheck everything and perform a safety inspection.
 

mangus580

New member
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Location
Western NY
First question I have... is did YOU put it in 'storage' 18 months ago? or are you buying one thats been sitting.

If you put it away, and know the state when parked, I say top off the batteries and give it a shot.

If its an unknown... Follow all the advice above.
 

appalacious

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Location
Perry, GA
First question I have... is did YOU put it in 'storage' 18 months ago? or are you buying one thats been sitting.

If you put it away, and know the state when parked, I say top off the batteries and give it a shot.

If its an unknown... Follow all the advice above.
Thanks for all the advice guys. I'm really a novice so this is all golden to me.

I parked it 18 months ago when one of my batteries failed. It was in the middle of cranking (had been daily driver up to then) and it just died right in the middle of a crank.

I tried to diagnose the problem- did some rewiring, etc. Turns out it was just a bad battery. So I put a new one in (although not a 6TN or whatever- I just put in a big one) tried to crank it and got a weird loud rattle. That scared me into just converting the whole thing to 12V so it'd be easier to diagnose the problems- plus i never wrapped my head around the 24V circuit so thats another reason i wanted 12V.

Also, the GP relay seems to cycle on and off multiple times with ignition "on". Don't know what thats about.


So how do you bleed a fuel filter?

Thanks again,
J
 

bryab123

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Location
Bristol, TN
disconnect the pink wire on the injector pump (that keeps the engine from starting) and there is a black plug on top of the fuel filter housing unscrew it with a large flat screwdriver and have somone else crank engine until pure fuel (no air bubbles) replace plug, connect pink wire, and fire it up.
 

appalacious

New member
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Location
Perry, GA
disconnect the pink wire on the injector pump (that keeps the engine from starting) and there is a black plug on top of the fuel filter housing unscrew it with a large flat screwdriver and have somone else crank engine until pure fuel (no air bubbles) replace plug, connect pink wire, and fire it up.
no air bubbles where?
Where should I be looking for the pure fuel?


I just finished installing the starter. Had to "fabricate" (read: decimate) the bracket to fit the 12V starter. It felt good to have it in there so solid, though..

Now I just have to fabricate some battery cables. The (-) bus is connected to the chassis somewhere right?

J
 

bryab123

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Location
Bristol, TN
out of the black plug that you take out unscrew the plug crank motor (fuel will come out of the hole) until you see no more air bubbles just straight fuel. put the plug back in and conect pink wire and start engine
 

appalacious

New member
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Location
Perry, GA
Looks like mine has a 4ga wire going from front battery to (-) bus. Also has a 12-14ga wire going from same terminal to the body of the truck.. Seems like it needs a bigger wire going to the chassis, but i haven't seen if the (-) bus goes to the engine or chassis anywhere.

J
 

kendelrio

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Alexandria, La
Most importantly, don't forget to keep plenty of invectives and curse words handy! Also be prepared to get that sheepish feeling when you near the end of the project, try to fore it up and rwalize you forgot something basic (like hooking up the battery.) (Not that I've done that or anything....
 

maddawg308

Well-known member
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Location
Front Royal, VA
I don't think you're gonna have too tough a time, J. 18 months is a while, but not bad. I've seen write-ups on guys who bought trucks that were sitting for 18 years, sometimes more (in one case, it was 34 years), and a couple of those they drove them home (granted, not far, maybe a couple miles). 18 months is only 1-1/2 years. Some of us have deuces that have been sitting for that long, and they start right up.
 

appalacious

New member
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Location
Perry, GA
Got the air out of the fuel- thanks bryab123.

Still didn't start, though. The batteries were a little sluggish, so i'll charge those up and try again tomorrow.

J
 

ONTOS66

Member
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18
Location
Franklin, NJ
Most importantly, don't forget to keep plenty of invectives and curse words handy! Also be prepared to get that sheepish feeling when you near the end of the project, try to fore it up and rwalize you forgot something basic (like hooking up the battery.) (Not that I've done that or anything....
Perhaps we should consider adding a short list of handy / popular invectives and curse words (that apply to military vehicles) to the TMs, LOs, etc. that are available for download? :)

appalacious

Check the CUCV forum for a list of the manuals for the CUCVs. They are all available for download in the resource section. Work your way up from the "dash 10" (###-10) Operator's manual, through the various mechanic's manuals from the unit level on up. Everything you need to know on brakes, fluids, tune up, basic operator maintenance, replacing body parts, etc.

From your original question we couldn't tell if this was a "new" truck that you were picking up from an auction, or your own that had just been sititng around growing cobwebs.

Good luck with your project and remember the Steel Soldiers motto:

nopics
 
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