before I install this transfer-case...

[Recovry4x4]

Jesusgatos,what's in the way? BTW, as soon as my fun acct gets replenished, I'm getting a pair of the steps you make for the back of the wrecker.

 

[G-Force]

What we used to do sometimes, when we didn't have another ferrule, was to put the ferrule back into the nut and then set the nut on top of a vise with the jaws opened far enough to let the tube extend down into the jaws. Since that tube looks like 1/4" take a 1/4" drift punch and drive the tube through the ferrule with it. This will open the ferrule up at the same time to the tube size. We used to do this on ships when we didn't have any more ferrules in inventory and were days away from port and a store to get some.

 

[jesusgatos]

Jesusgatos,what's in the way? BTW, as soon as my fun acct gets replenished, I'm getting a pair of the steps you make for the back of the wrecker.

Here's a picture to show you what I'm talking about. I can't remove that fitting without taking off the back cover of the transfer-case. I guess I could cut/grind off the 90, then install a straight 1/4" NPT fitting and then stack a 90 on top of that. That would probably give me enough clearance, but I'd rather just use the fitting that's already in there. I tried fitting a standard compression olive in there, and it's close, but it bottoms out against the flat part inside just before the angled part of the olive makes contact with the angled part of the fitting. I think it might crush enough to work OK, but I don't want to cut any corners. What do you guy think I should do about this? I'm going to remove the parking brake drum anyway (to change the rear output seal), but I'd rather not have to take off that back part of the case. Is it something that I could just R & R easily?

 

[jesusgatos]

Here's a picture to show what the fitting(s) up top looked like. It was just a standard compression fitting, but the compression nut was stripped-out and I didn't like that there were three different fittings stacked on top of each other, so I simplified things a bit.

 

[jesusgatos]

I just remembered that I had ordered new pinion seals for my axles (with ODiron's axle rebuild kits), but none of them were leaking, so I didn't replace them. Crossed my fingers and hoped they were the same part number as the transfer-case seals. Quick check on ODiron's website confirmed it. So I removed all the yokes. Took me a minute (and a trip to the parts store) to figure out how to break those nuts loose with the case out of the truck. Now I'm having a **** of a time getting these seals out. Slide-hammer is just pulling/peeling the inner lip of the seals outward. Any tips?

 

[G-Force]

Since you have the seal bent out that far either try grabbing it with a pair of vice grips and smack the vice grips with a hammer or take a chisel and see if you can collapse the seal housing.

 

[wldrbob]

and a bit of heat some repare ppl seem to like to put red locktight everywhere 400degreesdoes it usually

 

[jesusgatos]

What we used to do sometimes, when we didn't have another ferrule, was to put the ferrule back into the nut and then set the nut on top of a vise with the jaws opened far enough to let the tube extend down into the jaws. Since that tube looks like 1/4" take a 1/4" drift punch and drive the tube through the ferrule with it. This will open the ferrule up at the same time to the tube size. We used to do this on ships when we didn't have any more ferrules in inventory and were days away from port and a store to get some.

Thanks. I tried (half-heartedly) to do that right off the bat, but after you suggested it, I went back and gave it another try. Managed to get it off without damaging it, and was able to get my new oil-line installed.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Good deal.

 

[jesusgatos]

Since you have the seal bent out that far either try grabbing it with a pair of vice grips and smack the vice grips with a hammer or take a chisel and see if you can collapse the seal housing.

and a bit of heat some repare ppl seem to like to put red locktight everywhere 400degreesdoes it usually

OK. Had to call it a night on account of the rain, but I'll give the seals another go tomorrow. Don't think vise-grips are going to do it, and I'm a little bit reluctant to use a torch so close to the bearings (wasn't planning on replacing them unless they look bad), but I'm about out of alternatives. I've got several different bearing pullers, but all of the jaws are too wide to get in between the seal lips and the input/output shafts.

 

[JasonS]

I replaced the seals in my xfer case last year. I had to remove the retainers and use a drift and a large hammer to pound them out.

 

[jesusgatos]

BTW, as soon as my fun acct gets replenished, I'm getting a pair of the steps you make for the back of the wrecker.

Sorry, I missed this. You know, you're only the 3rd or 4th person that's expressed any interest. I made three sets for my truck, and one set for Clinton at C & C, but that's it.

 

[jesusgatos]

Well, that's what I get for not reading the TM before ripping into this. I just figured out that the front output seal is the only one that can be removed/replaced without first removing the seal retainer. So I ended up having to take off the rear output real retainer and could have easily swapped-out that funky 90-degree fitting. Ugh.

 

[jesusgatos]

I replaced the seals in my xfer case last year. I had to remove the retainers and use a drift and a large hammer to pound them out.

...and I obviously missed this.

 

[jesusgatos]

Got my new air-shift transfer-case installed! I read about transfer-cases slipping out of high-range, so gringeltaube helped me check mine, and I replaced all the input/output seals. Just gotta torque-down the input/output flange nuts, then reinstall the linkage and tighten everything up. I think I'm going to run all new air-lines, so I'm going to wait to hook-up the air-shift cylinder. Thanks for all the help with this guys.

 

[jesusgatos]

Well, I'm right back where I started. Took Mah Deuce out for a test-drive this afternoon and the new transfer-case started making an absolutely awful screeching/squealing noise, just a few miles away from my house. I was able to limp it home, but it seems pretty well seized up. Looks like it's time to find ANOTHER new transfercase...

 

[mikew]

Bummer on the transfer case!

I asume you are sure it's the transfer case making the noise.

Does it make the noise in both high and low range?

I rebuilt my sprag case a little while back because the bearings on the input shaft that the low range gear run on bit the dust.

The input shaft is above the oil level in the case so it and it's parts can get surface rust when sitting for a long time, plus it looks to me like they don't get lubed very well anyway, just splash, and if you run in high most of the time (like me) the low speed gear is just spinning away on the input shaft, with not much oil and surface rust on the bearings.

Overall, it's not hard to replace the bearings and if you buy them from a bearing supplier (not an automotive store like NAPA but someone like Allied or Fleck) they aren't very expensive.

 

[jesusgatos]

Yeah, MAJOR bummer. I drove all the way up to WA to get it, and I spent a lot of time cleaning it up, installing new seals, and installing it. And yes, I'm sure it's the transfercase. I left the access covers off, so I could tell exactly where the noise was coming from. I think this probably has something to do with it. I'm fairly certain that I put everything back together the same way it came apart, but I guess it's possible that I messed something up. I don't know.

 

[mikew]

Well you might be in luck if it is the front shaft!

You can pull the front shaft without pulling the transfer case, I did it to put new sprags in mine.

It's quick and easy too.

 

[wsucougarx]

I just got two air shifts from Brad's for $125 each. Heck on of them was brand new. I was a bit surprised to see Ontario Canada manuf plates on it though. Have you gotten your trailer from Brad's? May need to load up a case. He's got them all over the place