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Behr Paint Jobs- Show me your MV's

DaneGer21

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This is my 24087 completed just before 4th of July. This was a color match and it IS a bit lighter compared to my jeep which was also done in 24087. As others have stated, I have had zero success in home depot getting ANY worker to find the FSS colors and I've been using behr for over 10 years. I do have the paint code for this, but it's not "true" 24087.

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Looks great! How did you apply it?
 

Deuce1/2

New member
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For Diverman-The 24087 is a single color. It is the Korean War/Vietnam era semi-gloss olive drab and was used as a solid color vs. a camo pattern. The colors used on the MV's differ depending on what era you want to depict on your truck. Since you said you wanted a "pattern" I assume you want a camo pattern. You should be able to find your truck in the TM-

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/M35/TB43-0209.pdf

This manual has all the trucks and equipment colors in Paint-by-number line drawings. I just painted my M109A3 and it was pretty simple. I used phosphoric acid to neutralize the rusted areas on the truck, scraped/sanded and then painted the rusted areas and all the seams with Rusteoleum rusty metal primer. I let the primer cure for 2 weeks and then painted it green. I made copies of the drawings in the manual and shaded them in to represent the actual colors rather than looking for all the #3's etc. Looking at the copies I used a sharpie to draw the camo pattern for the black and brown, on the truck and used the paint sprayer to paint just over the sharpie lines with the black paint. I did the brown last because it is a minor component of the scheme. The camo pattern is like the easiest paint job you will ever do, because if you mess up, you can come back from the other direction with the other color, instead of having to shoot a whole panel and get it to blend. As far as using a paint gun, there are typically 2 adjustments to make on a conventional gun-air and material. The air you use to adjust the "fan" or spray pattern (by regulating the air pressure) and the material you use to adjust the amount of material in the mix. If you are using a conventional gun, you need to make sure that the air compressor you are using will supply enough air so that you don't have to wait for the compressor to build up pressure while you are spraying (that would give you an inconsistent spray pattern). Something else you will have to play with is the paint viscosity. Typically you will have to thin paint to use in a conventional gun. Try not to exceed the paint mfg. recommendations. If you are getting big splatters, you probably need to up the air pressure or thin the paint. If you are getting runs, you are either moving too slow (putting it on too thick) or you have thinned your paint too much. Once you have your gun loaded with paint, look down at the spray pattern from above and from the side while you give the trigger a short burst to get an idea of the fan your gun is creating. You'll want to overlap your passes probably by 1/3 to get and even layer. Practice on some scrap material. several thin layers are better than thick ones. There is more, but those are the basics. Good luck.
The closest color I can find to the color of my 1967 Kaiser M185A3 is the same color as the Vietnam era uniforms, OliveGreen107 and OliveGreen507
 

SCSG-G4

PSVB 3003
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Didn't know that the OD had any official color designation:

- Are those Pantone color ID's?
No, they are military official colors. During WWII Olive Drab came in at least 8 different paint colors and almost as many different canvas(cloth) colors, mainly because different companies were making them, they had different 'formulas', and some materials needed for the exact tint were not available. The OG107 'pickle suit' looked a different color after a few washings as I recall from my days wearing them.
 

Another Ahab

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No, they are military official colors. During WWII Olive Drab came in at least 8 different paint colors and almost as many different canvas(cloth) colors, mainly because different companies were making them, they had different 'formulas', and some materials needed for the exact tint were not available. The OG107 'pickle suit' looked a different color after a few washings as I recall from my days wearing them.
Interesting to know, BDU's for the Seabees way back when were Olive Drab and worked fine and made sense enough.

Then somewhere (and why) the USN went to blue Camoflage (and guessing Bees went camo also), and I never could figure that out (likely $$$ and private industry involved somehow).

Never made sense really:

"Man overboard...and GONE"
 

Mullaney

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Interesting to know, BDU's for the Seabees way back when were Olive Drab and worked fine and made sense enough.

Then somewhere (and why) the USN went to blue Camoflage (and guessing Bees went camo also), and I never could figure that out (likely $$$ and private industry involved somehow).

Never made sense really:

"Man overboard...and GONE"
.
@Another Ahab , I feel sure somebody with a friend in government lined their pockets on that one...
 

Another Ahab

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@Another Ahab , I feel sure somebody with a friend in government lined their pockets on that one...
That's ususally how it works; a story that is unchanged since the days of Ancient Rome (and earlier no doubt).

So here's a story (related):

- Know a guy through social circles here (retired ex-Special Forces U.S. Army), who got picked up in his retirement by a private government contractor

- Company he worked for (and himself) made big bucks providing food services to U.S. military deployments in Afghanistan

- Never made sense to me, because the Navy (and every service branch,) already has Cook and Food Service ratings, so why privatize the work?

He's a nice enough guy and all, and offered the chance to make a bundle I guess we all would, but...

Only thing I could figure was War Profiteering, kind of Plain and Simple. But I could be wrong.
 

3rdmdqm

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Woodbine Maryland
So now that the truck has been completely reduced to a pile of parts for complete frame off restoration on my '68 Deuce, I've finally gotten around to the cab. The cab on my truck was galvanized and the original military primer they initially used had a reaction to it, turned to a chalk like undercoat and the paint started peeling off in sheets (hence the restoration and figured I'd do the whole truck). I have completely sandblasted the entire cab down to bare metal, most of the galvanization appears to have been blasted off during the process. I have applied this Behr primer to the metal. Has anyone used this before? Results? It goes on rough like typical house paint primer, so not sure how the final paint finish is going to turn out, but hey, it's an army truck. Behr recommended this primer for metal (includes galvanized metal surfaces) for the Behr Marquee paint I'm using. First primer coat is on. Seems fairly durable but it sure goes on differently than other primers.
 

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Another Ahab

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Alexandria, VA
So now that the truck has been completely reduced to a pile of parts for complete frame off restoration on my '68 Deuce, I've finally gotten around to the cab. Behr recommended this primer for metal (includes galvanized metal surfaces) for the Behr Marquee paint I'm using. First primer coat is on. Seems fairly durable but it sure goes on differently than other primers.
Hate that feeling when you're just starting out on a major project, and the first feeling you get is:

'Uh-oh, is something wacked out here and am I doing something all wrong?!!!"
 

Buffalobwana

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I’m a big fan of painting the canvass. It makes it last sooooo much longer.

I have shared my canvass repair method before, but I’ll share it again here.

When my 923 tarp wore down to threads in one spot, I did an experiment. I soaked a big 2’x2’ piece of bedsheet as a “patch” in Behr paint and smoothed it on.

Painted an extra coat on after it dried and it has lasted years. 10 out of10 … do recommend!
 

TechnoWeenie

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I'm not a fan of marquee. Not flat enough, IMO.
In one of these threads somewhere, I bought 3 tiny jars of the 3 types of Behr paint, all were supposed to be ultra flat. Only the plain jane paint looked flat, the Ultra(?) and the marquee both had a sheen that didn't really go away.

EDIT: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threa...uct-line-am-i-looking-for.198919/post-2348263

 
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