Behr Paint Jobs- Show me your MV's

[RAYZER]

No top coat required.

 

[Nick]

I do not know the Federal # to get the color but someone else here sure does I bet.
The Behr ULTRA is what has been getting used as well as I have this on the M909 and love it

Behr also has the Marque paint which is another step better than this - it is exterior only and it will not allow dirt or dust to settle on it - and it does not as the nose of the M909 has been painted yellow with this over a month ago and it is still brighter and cleaner as the day I shot it.

I will say just watch if you reduce it with water only to be careful - you are drying out water not chemicals that are made to evaporate faster - so getting the right mix to shoot is the key - use little water to thin.

Is the Marque a flat paint also? Or is it just how ya get it mixed? Im leaning towards the Marque to keep the dust and dirt off, but want a flat tan color.

 

[Warthog]

Here is the Behr Marquee Paint code for a gallon 34094 - 383 color paint.

I had to argue with the counter person about the number. They keep wanting to look at paint chips. I final convinced them to just type in "34094" and what do you know it came up. The guy that finally help me said I was the first person that had ever asked him for a Federal paint code.

 

[Warthog]

You can always use this thread in the Paint and Bodywork forum

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?116608-Paint-Information-(Codes-and-Sources)

 

[swiss]

A few observations on the behr paint. I have the m923 reprinted in behr marquee and the m1009 repainted in urethane. Both paint jobs done by commander Zout to perfection. That said the behr looks good but it is not the same paint as the urathane based paint. Now the cost was about $40.00 per gallon difference. All said and done I will stick with urathane based paints moving forward

 

[zout]

WOW - a 2011 thread still alive.

Swiss is correct.
BUT - like his topper we are in the process of making into a BIKINI TOPPER for a CUCV - the layers of paint lay out as this:
First two coats are Military - urethane based
The primer laid on top of this was Laquer based - this does NOT bond with Urethane enamel so therefore it seals but floats without a bonding interaction.
There are at least 4 more coats of what ever the H** folks sprayed on this - BUT - there was a non bonding surface for a long lasting paint job with getting sanding down to below the chit laquer primer - once below this sand it off and get a 2k primer sealer on it and then paint it with LIKE material - never ever mix brands of paints - ever. It may look good but its a waste of money.

With Swiss truck we showed with the CARC surface with a bodaceous cleaning - hardly any sanding how to get a great bonding paint job with BEHR Marquee paint.

Like I told Swiss Sunday - they spend more time on building a foundation for a building than actually building the above ground structure - it all starts from what you have at the surface to make it last.

God said a long time ago - do not build your house upon sand.

 

[bigginstactical]

Swiss could you please explain your last post. What don't you like about the behr paint? What urethane did you use? In a few more weeks I will be painting and I have yet to buy paint so would I like to see as much info as possible. Thanks for your input!

 

[Kloakndagr]

I used Behr and am pleasantly surprised and very happy.

 

[swiss]

Swiss could you please explain your last post. What don't you like about the behr paint? What urethane did you use? In a few more weeks I will be painting and I have yet to buy paint so would I like to see as much info as possible. Thanks for your input!

The Behr paint is a softer surface, it is not urethane which is almost like a rock hard surface. That said it looks okay but the urethane looks great.

Okay some background. The Behr paint job on the M923 was a wash of the truck with good CARC underneath with a very very heavy degreaser. This allowed for a good surface for adhesion and a limited amount of preparation work. It was a quicker paint job in terms of the overall time and effort.

The M1009 Urethane paint job was a complete paint removal almost, sanding etc then a build up of a new surface with an Epoxy high build primer and then 3 coats of urethane on top. The urethane was TM9 Ordnance https://www.tm9ordnance.com/. We had some issues with an old batch of paint and a long story finally got a new batch of paint and this paint is the same that Zout has been using on all of PapaBears trucks with excellent results. I believe that PB's trucks are using the Enamel versus the Urethane. Zout can confirm.

Now the key as Zout alluded to earlier is what surface are you going to be painting on? If a base CARC then the Behr paint allows a quick overcoat. If you have a ton of junk that is unknown with multiple layers of paint then you have to remove these first if you really want to ensure a good paint job. Surface prep is another story for another day.

The Behr is a good soft finish with a chalky kind of look and feel. The urethane is a much harder surface. If you look at any of the chemistry behind paints the urethane based paints are on the top of the hardness scale and water based lower on the scale.

I have not done the following test yet but this is a simple hardness test that would give us some details on paint hardness, I just need to find some pencils



The Pencil Hardness Test provides a simple method to test the scratch hardness of coatings. In this test, pencils in a range of 6B to 8H hardness-grade are used. Pencils graded using this system is used to measure the hardness and resistance of varnishes and paints. The resistance of a coating (also known as its pencil hardness) is determined as the grade of the hardest pencil that does not mark the coating when pressed firmly against it at a 45 degree angle.


Select a pencil and make a line about one inch long on the paint sample. If the pencil leaves a scratch, then take the next softer pencil and do the same thing. The number of the first pencil that you use after you have made a scratch in the coating that doesn't leave a mark is considered the "pencil hardness" of the coating. (There are some coatings that are so hard that even the 9H pencils will not scratch them. All of those coatings get a 9H pencil hardness rating to designate their hardness.)


Pencil Hardness for Common Coatings


• Catalyzed polyurethane: 9H
• Catalyzed modified acrylic polyurethane: 4H
• Catalyzed acrylic polyurethane: 2H
• Water-based polyurethane: 3H
• Water-based urethane/isocyanate catalyst: 2H
• Low-VOC lacquer: 3H
• Low-VOC catalyzed lacquer: 2H (24 hours)
• Urethane/nitrocellulose lacquer: F (24 hours)
• Clear shellac aerosol: 3B
• Polyurethane/nitrocellulose aerosol: HB

 

[sparragh]

I did my M35 with behr paint 2 years ago and after 2 years of temp ranges of 90 degree heat to 45 below cold the paint is holding up and looks like I painted it yesturday. So that said I highly recommend Behr paint.

 

[ryan77]

Can you buy a Urethane paint at Depot in Behr??? Ive always used carc but its 2 hrs away and expensive! Home Depot is 5 mins away!

 

[Jeep Nasty]

Very happy with my Behr paint job

 

[bigginstactical]

Thanks for the reply swiss. The house paint idea is pretty new (and scary) to me as I have been in auto body business for 13 years. I want to use some of our industrial coatings but I haven't been very happy with the colors I have mixed. I would prefer automotive because as you have said it will be tougher and its also thicker in most cases. As for prep I'm sand blasting most everything and urethane priming it all. Axles and such Ill probably end up sanding and blasting the hard to reach places just to give it some tooth. Everything is going to be sealed with primer or sealer so basically it will be a clean canvas. I'm very happy with the colors of the house paint and cost but still not sure if I want to commit to that after all this work Id prefer to do a flat paint job but many of our products don't really work that well flat, more suited to semi gloss. I'm going to keep doing some research and I do very much appreciate all the knowledge and experience on here.

 

[zxmedic]

I just used Behr ultra pretty happy and paint damage blast some more on that easy takes walking on it with out damage

 

[mikey]

I pressure washed my truck to remove loose paint. I then wire brushed it and primed the rusted or bare areas with Rustoleum rusty metal primer. I finally painted it with Behr. Two years later it is fantastic overall. There are some areas, where rust is common, that are now rusting through the Behr again, but 99% of the truck looks GREAT. The areas that are rusting through are now going to get POR15 and some new Behr. I'll bet two years from now, it will be perfect. I thought about hitting the rust areas with POR15 before painting the truck, but I'm glad I waited. About 50% of the original rust did not come back through, so I'll be spending half as much now on POR15.

Mikey

 

[Lindsaym151]

Latest paqint jobs with S& W A100 flat

 

[RAYZER]

Tailgate is done!

 

[bolognablake]

My M116A3 before and after painting. I used the Codes found in this thread for Behr 686 Tan. Prepped with wire wheels and rusty metal primer. Thinned with water, and it sprayed beautifully out of my cheapo gravity gun.

 

[zebedee]

Quick recolor for the parade. Been using "Sand" in a rattle can for small stuff I could take off the truck and paint in the basement, but finally 'blew' over the whole truck with the FSS code from Home Depot. Colour matched pretty good with the "Sand" and an original CARC wheel that was switched out when still in service.

 

[TechnoWeenie]

Walked into HD, gave them the 3 fed #s, walked out 10 mins later with 3 gals of 1 gal ea tan, blk, green...

Giggity.

He commented that he'd never heard of the federal standard #s, then noticed the colors, and asked me who/why they wanted to paint a house camo.. L O L.

I explained to him, he stopped for a second, and I swear he had an epiphany..

Exterior rated paint (20 years, IIRC), matte finish, spray on, etc......