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Bertha is apparently jealous of the attention I'm giving the M37.(Torque bar separation)

kendelrio

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Doing a last minute inspection of Bertha before I head offshore and found this today:

20220424_135030.jpg

I found the appropriate section of the TM (many thanks to @m715mike for the direction to head):

20220424_222556.jpg

20220424_222635.jpg


The question I have for the 5 ton gurus:

Do I need to take off the tires? How difficult is it to press in the bushings? It also looks like the axle doesn't line up with the torque rod now, how do I correct that?
 

Mullaney

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Doing a last minute inspection of Bertha before I head offshore and found this today:

View attachment 865699

I found the appropriate section of the TM (many thanks to @m715mike for the direction to head):

View attachment 865700

View attachment 865702


The question I have for the 5 ton gurus:

Do I need to take off the tires? How difficult is it to press in the bushings? It also looks like the axle doesn't line up with the torque rod now, how do I correct that?
.
We used Coffing Chain Hoists (brand name) to move the axle in to place. There may be other ideas, but leaving the wheels on the axle will simplify alignment. Leaving the wheels on will also keep you from accidentally "preloading" the torque rod.

Long years ago, we had a 60 ton press that pushed out the old like a knife through butter. Maybe half that will push the old out and put the new in place.

The bottom right picture shows you the tapered fit. A no BS large hammer applied generously to Part #15 on that same sheet will free the torque rod.
 
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charlesmann

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Line up how, up/down or fore/aft? If fore/aft, a come a long to pull the rear axle or porta power to push from the intermediate axle. If you need to pull the axle forward, a come a long from the front axle or other solid object (tree) in front of the tck. Iv porta powered or used another tck with the brakes set, when i first started mechanicing on big truck in civi world.
 

kendelrio

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Next question: where can I get the bushing I need? I looked at the crossover parts list under suspension and it isn't listed?

Thanks in advance.
 

G744

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I'd try Memphis first. Be aware there are some Chinese imports of these that aren't rightly machined.

The unfortunate thing is if one is shot, all the rest aren't far behind. All 12 of 'em.

Changing them is probably one of the most energy-sucking jobs on any 5-ton. And that big-assed box wrench to handle the nuts isn't cheap.

The good thing is that rubber joint hasn't changed since the first G-744 trucks in the 50's. They are all the same.

DG
 

US6x4

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I can't answer that for sure until I get home and test all of the others. Odds are this is an age related issue, it could be the larger tires. Without doing a study based on completely new bushings etc, I can't quantify and answer.
Fair enough. I have a feeling that my 16.00s may stress my bushings a bit more in the turns and cause them to reconsider their contentment...
 

Mullaney

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I'd suggest getting the South Korean safety bar bushings. They prevent the torque rod from slipping off if the bushing fails. To get the axle back in line, a good ratchet strap might do the trick.

View attachment 865793
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Well... At least South Korea has some of our trucks there.

Not exactly OEM, but they might be good quality. New rubber will be the key to happiness and the safety bar was a major topic of discussion in these forums. A definite plus if the rubber turns loose later.
 

Brutacus

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.
Well... At least South Korea has some of our trucks there.

Not exactly OEM, but they might be good quality. New rubber will be the key to happiness and the safety bar was a major topic of discussion in these forums. A definite plus if the rubber turns loose later.

They manufacture a version of the 5ton under license. They made a few improvements, but most of the truck is the same.
 

Guyfang

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.
Well... At least South Korea has some of our trucks there.

Not exactly OEM, but they might be good quality. New rubber will be the key to happiness and the safety bar was a major topic of discussion in these forums. A definite plus if the rubber turns loose later.
The South Korean's produce the trucks. They have a contract to produce the A3's,
 

Guyfang

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There was an article in The Army Times(?) several years ago, about the Kia KM500. It was very positive about the truck, and production as a whole.
 
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Bill Nutting

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A friend of mine drilled and taped a hole in the center of rod that surrounds the rubber. He cut some "washers" out of 1/4" plate that covered the end of the bushing and bolted it on. If the rubber fails, the washer holds it all together. I've been thinking about doing mine this way.
Edit: I may have the wrong part. His mod was on the ends of the "Dog Bone". Is this the Dog Bone?
 
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G744

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I've seen a piece of steel bar welded to the central metal insert , laying across the openings in the ends. Does the same thing just not as neat.

I like that one version with the Heim inserts, oughta last forever.

DG
 

Brutacus

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If you buy the safety bar bushings for a 5 ton, you'll find the price is about 6 or 7 dollars more than the regular bushings. You can find some more here.
With a similar price, I just save myself a lot of work and swapped out all 12 bushings.

HPIM2692.JPG
 
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