best way to fully remove rear hub covers to access spindle nuts?

[blutow]

I did the spindle nuts on my front hubs earlier this week. It was really easy and the hub cover is easy to remove by just taking out the 4 bolts and rotating the cover out since the steering linkage can articulate.

For the hubs on the rear wheels, I couldn't just move the cover aside since the suspension link doesn't bend that way. I was debating what the easiest approach is to get the rear cover out of the way. I figured it's either disconnecting the ball joint bolts holding the hub to to a-arm or maybe I could disconnect the suspension linkage from the rear hub cover by removing the bolt and banging it out. Any recommendations on best approach? I did find a couple videos online and neither of them talk about how to remove the rear covers (except telling me to remove the 4 bolts).

 

[Carrera911]

Easiest way is to remove the large bolt that holds the radius arm to the frame. No risk of damaging the boots on either the ball joints or tie rod end.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[blutow]

Easiest way is to remove the large bolt that holds the radius arm to the frame. No risk of damaging the boots on either the ball joints or tie rod end.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks. I was eyeing that one also and it kind of looks like a pain in the butt with the rubber bushing, but I'll give it a shot. The fronts were so easy, I got spoiled...

 

[Carrera911]

I crack it with a ratcheting breaker bar, spin it off with a milwaukee ratchet. Slides right out of the bracket. Torque spec is something like 250lbs, as tight as you can get it with a breaker is more than fine lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[blutow]

I crack it with a ratcheting breaker bar, spin it off with a milwaukee ratchet. Slides right out of the bracket. Torque spec is something like 250lbs, as tight as you can get it with a breaker is more than fine lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

thanks again, that was much easier than it looked.

 

[Gunnlogi]

Anyone have issues getting the joint to separate? I can't for the life of me get the radius arm and the cover to slide off. I've pickle forked it, hammered it, floor jack under the bolt, I'm running out of ideas at this point. I'd leave it alone but the dust boot is torn.

 

[Mogman]

This is how I have been doing it for the last 50 years or so, has worked every time for me...

how to remove tie rod end hammer - Search Videos

www.bing.com

 

[Gunnlogi]

This is how I have been doing it for the last 50 years or so, has worked every time for me...

how to remove tie rod end hammer - Search Videos

www.bing.com

I'll give it a shot, but I would think I've created enough vibrations at this point

 

[Mogman]

I'll give it a shot, but I would think I've created enough vibrations at this point

Well I don't necessarily agree with his theory, I think it distorts the hole just enough to "pop" it out, I just did a quick search, figured it was easier than trying to explain it.

 

[Mogman]

I like this method because it does not damage the boot, but now that you have I would go ahead and drive a fork in it then whack it with a big hammer as shown

 

[Action]

you can borrow the tool from the autoparts stores. Things like this are so much easier when you use the correct tool.

 

[blutow]

I removed the bolt holding the link to the frame as suggested by @Carrera911 and it was quick and easy for me. It took a little persuasion to get it back in place, but not hard at all. The only trick is that you need a couple 1 1/8" sockets or socket/wrench. The passenger side was really easy because I could get an impact on it, but drivers side I had to use breaker bar and it was pretty tight.

This is the bolt to remove in case there is any confusion -


Removing the ball joint at the other end is also an option, I just didn't want to risk screwing up the boot and removing the other end turned out to be easy.

I have done all 4 corners now and the first 3 looked like they were properly serviced previously. The 4th was a little sloppy with way too much sealant and it was clear that they had made multiple attempts with the same nut and lock washer (4 tabs showed signs of previously being bent). The nut was also pretty buggered up as you can see below. Luckily, my tabs aligned with good slots on the nut, I woudln't trust the damaged slots. I'll make sure I order a new nut before I service the hubs again.



way too much sealant, this ring of rtv was basically riding up against the bearing and the bearing had some sealant on it also. Probably not a big deal if some of it it got loose in the hub, but just poor quality work. Whoever serviced this particular hub was inexperienced or just didn't care. All my other hubs looked pretty good.

 

[Lothar]

The metod I use is to loosen the nut so it is still covering the end of the threads. Then floor jack it until it pops out.