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BFR's Floozy

BFR

Rocket Surgeon
2,331
43
48
Location
North Georgia
New MV, time for a new thread so I can document my FLU SEE ownership experience.

1989 ( I think) FLU419 SEE purchased from the State of Georgia Forestry Commission.
Pictures from the auction
 

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BFR

Rocket Surgeon
2,331
43
48
Location
North Georgia
I charged the batteries over night and reinstalled them. I owned a deuce for years , but these are my first 6TLs. According to the stickers they were new in January of 2018.

Right now the start button in inoperable,. After reading through some of the troubleshooting steps in the tm and looking at the fuses / relays I have decided to get some of each on hand before I go any further.

Current Status:
It seems very solid, but is filthy. It has been sitting under a pole barn on a tree farm for a long time with very little use
504 miles
542 hours

I think it wants to be green, the white paint has what appears to be algae and lichens growing on it.

The master switch / key near the shifters has been replaced with a switch like the master switch in a M35.

I started it by crossing the solenoid and it sounds good, it built air pressure, and all the gauges seem to be functional except coolant temp, so I have only run it long enough to on fold the backhoe to make cleaning it up a little easier.

The wiper motors sound like they are working, but the arms / blades are nowhere to be seen.

Current Needs:
Fuses/ Relays
Wiper Arms / Blades
Wash
 

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Last edited:

Speedwoble

Well-known member
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Location
New Holland, PA
Right now the start button in inoperable,. After reading through some of the troubleshooting steps in the tm and looking at the fuses / relays I have decided to et some of each on hand before I go any further.
Greetings from another former Deuce, current FLU owner. You will like the power steering.
Just a dumb thing, but the FLU has a clutch safety switch so make sure you are depressing the clutch.
Since it has been in a barn, check for chewed wires under the hood right behind the dash.
 

BFR

Rocket Surgeon
2,331
43
48
Location
North Georgia
Thanks Kenny. I just realized it says GA Mountains under your username. I think I saw you driving north on US129 north of Cleveland a month or two back.
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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If it was an Equinox you saw, it might have been me. Gainesville is the big city I go to most often so I'm in Cleveland somewhat frequently.
 

BFR

Rocket Surgeon
2,331
43
48
Location
North Georgia
So far I have only been able to start the truck by shorting the starter solenoid. With the master power on & the key set to on, nothing happens when I push the start button.

I am running into a dead end trying to follow the troubleshooting procedure in the TM as I do not have access to the STE/ICE set.

At this point I have reinstalled the the keyed switch in the dash & inspected the wiring behind the dash by removing the vent in the dash and the intake hoses that attach to the airbox underhood. Fortunately there are no signs of rodent damage.

-When I turn the switch to "AUX" the charge indicator lamp in the gauges illuminates.
-When I turn it to "ON" the brake warning also illuminates and the voltmeter shows just over 24V.
-When I depress the clutch, I can hear what sounds like a relay closing near the the transmission.

All of the fuses appear intact. I have replaced fuse 3.

Is there a diagram showing which of the relays above the driver's side headlight is which?
Do they all use the same part?
Are the relays in the starting system in the panel above the driver's headlight, or somewhere else?
 

BFR

Rocket Surgeon
2,331
43
48
Location
North Georgia
Joel,
Do you have a copy of the Unit / Maintenance Student Handout? If not, I've attached a copy. I'd be happy to come down and help you troubleshoot if needed.
Thank you,
That student handout looks great. I would absolutely appreciate help w/ trouble shooting. It seems there are several steps that require action inside and outside the cab at the same side.
 

peakbagger

Well-known member
723
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Location
northern nh
By the way, the electrical schematic in the student handout is low resolution and has a fold in the center. Look up this link https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/unimog-flu-419-see-wiring-diagram.168054/ Its a much higher resolution. Transfer it to thumb drive and a local Staples should be able to print it out full size.

Things that should be on you priority list.

Remove the bleeder plugs from the two air tanks and the bleeder that sits between the two air tanks. Remove any crud that is in there.

If there is a lot of crud in your cross body air line its probably rusting out on the inside. It runs from the regulator on the passenger side across the body to the air system. If its stainless its been upgraded, if it steel it hasnt. Do yourself a favor and swap the steel one out.

Take a look at the hydraulic cooler fans on the back deck. Look at the fan motor enclosures and see if the electrical wires entering the enclosures are coming out the top of the enclosure. The seal into the enclosures tends to crack and leak water into the motor enclosures which eventually short out. You can take a thin object and try to spin the fan blades to see if they are seized up. If they are still spinning put some RTV on the connections to try to seal them up. Just because they spin does not mean you are all set but is a good sign. If at a later date when you are using the backhoe and the fuse blows that feeds the rear deck they you probably have a shorted out cooler fan. Its tricky one to diagnose as the fans have temperature switches in them so everything will be fine until you are using the backhoe long enough for the fans to try to turn on. By the time you stop and try to figure out whats wrong, the fan temperature switch is open so the system tests fine. (Been there done that a few times)

Open up the drain plugs on the diff locks and spray WD-40 up the drains. The Technical Manuals do not show this service and on mine and I think on many SEEs the plugs are painted over. I posted photos long ago on a thread. If the diff locks are seized the parts are cheap but axles need to be disassembled.

If you are ordering parts, order two nylon shift bushings. The long thread had a couple of descriptions and photos of how to do it. When they crumble you cant shift the SEE.

Obviously do the round the truck greasing routine called out in the operations manual. All the fittings are there but some are hard to find. One of the them can only be reached from behind the cab with the backhoe deployed.

Drain the portal axles and replace the fluid with synthetic. Make sure you fill them up per the manual.
 

BFR

Rocket Surgeon
2,331
43
48
Location
North Georgia
Time for some updates...
After an extended stay at the hydraulic shop, all of the backhoe cylinders have been rebuilt and hoses have been replaced. Because they are more accessible, I decided to work through the front loader hydraulics as issues arise. In the first 10 minutes of use, the front pump belt shredded. So I replaced all three. Of course the seals on one of the bucket curl cylinders failed in the next 10 minutes of work so I pulled them both and had them repacked and replaced the two sketchiest hoses up front while I was at it.
 
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