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Big Dumb Trailer ...more pics

40grit

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RE: tgrailer

Spicey,
looks like another fine example of spicergump industries...

trying to plan another trip back east to see you and BTAMG...
 

1ton

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Well since Spicer is back on the board I've had a couple of ideas. Wouldn't a lockable power-divider work between the third axle and the trailer to keep the trailer from pushing the truck? That coupled with a driveshaft disconnect would give three drive options, freewheel, unlocked and locked. If the driveshaft disconnect was on the truck side there wouldn't be a spinning PTO when you didn't want it. To stop the trailer PTO from spinning you would remove the driveshaft between the PTO and the 4th axle. The only time you would need to do that would be using the trailer with a truck besides blue.
Thoughts?
 

Ferroequinologist

Resident railroad expert
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I think a way to disconnect the trailer drive on the fly would be a good and safe idea.

I like the idea of the powered trailer! Much to do when I'm free of the Navy and out in the middle of nowhere....
 

spicergear

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The idea (when/if money for fun comes about again) would be to only use the trailer drive off road. Idea some of you have about pillow blocking under the pintle is pretty close. That's the way it would be designed though it needs a decent abount of slip travel in the/a yoke since it's travel will be multiplied, so to speak, since it's not exactly at the pivot point but below it. Going over humps or through gullies would bring the most extension or compression of the slip yoke under the pintle. I also feel that for this off road only application and the spacial requirements of the drive from the rear-rear of the truck to the pintle pivot location an off road limiting strap for the right side of the rear axle might need to be employed just to keep stuff from really putting some hard and ugly angles on the yokes in that short area. The big hit is a John Deere driveshaft that visually looks to fit the bill but there's plenty of time to chat with draveshaft shops and see what can be done for under $500 for that shaft. Yikes...I know- Jesse at High Angle Drive will prollly get a call for some input-

The drive is mainly so the truck stands a chance in anything slippery of pulling the trailer with a load on it. I'd guess the trailer to be 6,000# or so (don't know yet but will weigh at some point) then being able to put another 8-10,000 on top of that could quite well anchor it into any muck without help from itself.
 

Trango

Member
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Boulder, CO
I just had a thought.... wouldn't it be cool if you could figure out the front driveshaft disconnect from an airshift t case, and use that to engage and disengage the trailer?

Also, what about using the torque tube from a mog? I used one on my buggy and it pretty much rocks. Granted, I didn't put my driveshaft through it but, after all, that's what they're made for. Moreover, with a few toggle fasteners and some large tabs carefully welded to the torque tube housing , a modified torque tube housing wouldn't be terrible to quickly mount up, with some sort of splined connection, say, you could slide a driveshaft in and out of.

BTW I just finished my front suspension today. Most of the flex in this picture (totally washed out, my phone has a terrible camera) is from that mog torque tube.

http://www.colorado4x4.org/gallery/files/2/6/4/suspension.jpg
 

spicergear

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The problem with building in a disconnect on the truck is that there's really no extra room to spare. Take a look at the real distance from the rear axle's rearward pinion flange then figure a U-joint, shaft w/slipyoke, then to another U-joint a pillow block under pintle. Yep...t'would be nice to have a disconnect at the rear rear but articulation of the suspension and needed lenth of drive shaft to accomodate lenth of slipyoke all spites any added jazz on the truck. Perhaps an simple in/out box under the tongue of the trailer would be sufficient enough to allow a disconnect without taking anything off of truck or trailer. ?? Heck...an NP205 with 1410's on it would work for a quick in/out...be strong enough and not too large for the task.
 

spicergear

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Just starting to get back to some truck work now. Picked up a wheeled 2 speed jack for the big dumb trailer, also working on a couple of other things so this is back burner for a while...
 

ARMYMAN30YearsPlus

In Memorial
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Have you gotten this on the road to see what the duece will be able to pull as far as performance is concerned? I know my duece did OK pulling the dolly and M 127 so this should pull about like my M 969 with a load of logs.
 

spicergear

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Yep, I've road tested it. My deuce with the M977 crane is prolly pushing 14,000+#'s now. That trailer is pretty heavy but my CAT1160 is 90hp over a stock deuce. It does okay pulling it but definately have to stay ahead of it shifting or it's slow to catch up. Trailer follows really well-
 

spicergear

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Saw the other big trailer post and figured I'd re-up this one and post a couple of things/thoughts. Since I changed my truck over to Hydro-Max braking and no air assist I'll have to keep that in mind for the trailer as I may put an air valve for brake operation. OR, just use it locally on the trucks brakes and get it prepped for the next truck that will be for heavy hauling. I posted earlier about pulling it--I've since towbar towed a couple deuce trucks and was able to maintain good highway speed and not too bad on small hills at speed. This trailer should be a bunch lighter than a whole truck so It should be good to go for some decent loads.
 

beaubeau

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Salisbury,N.H. 03268
RE: tgrailer

JPG. That trailer looks great. I built one simular to that about 12 years ago from a 1989 F800 and I am still using it every day. I make my tow rings from Flat stock and weld round stock on it. I have a couple of Bolster trailers and plan to build a Drop deck from one to pull behind my 1ton Chevy Duramax. I think I con get it Certified here for 10 tons .Make a good rick for hauling Deuces and Mabe a 5 ton!! Good lick Phil
 

davo727

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Location
Cleveland, TX , Spring , TX
JPG. That trailer looks great. I built one simular to that about 12 years ago from a 1989 F800 and I am still using it every day. I make my tow rings from Flat stock and weld round stock on it. I have a couple of Bolster trailers and plan to build a Drop deck from one to pull behind my 1ton Chevy Duramax. I think I con get it Certified here for 10 tons .Make a good rick for hauling Deuces and Mabe a 5 ton!! Good lick Phil

Got any pics of your trailers?
 
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