• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

bobbed 5ton costs

infidel got me

Well-known member
1,679
32
48
Location
Newberry, Florida
What did you come up with for the bottom retaining plate? The plate the nuts tighten against?
I made a flat plate with the four holes for leaf springs. I also used a three inch square block to go between the spring and axle assy. I'll post some pics. of it all tomorrow when I get back to the shop.
 

Vintage iron

Active member
1,123
16
38
Location
Falmouth Ma.
1/4 channel is way to lite. Like lochjosh said, you need to use at least 5/8 plate and check the torque numbers on the u-bolts, it is going to be at least 375+
 

infidel got me

Well-known member
1,679
32
48
Location
Newberry, Florida
Sorry, to say but, it looks like you got your spring geometry wrong too. The shackle side Should be over the spring eye.
Yes- that's a good eye you have Iron, didn't notice that. I went with 5/8 plate steel. I made four plates, but I think I will only use two. My plan is to weld the three inch square block to the top of the axle, and then use one plate on each side on the bottom-- I went with a 3'' rise on the axle to clear the air cans without moving anything( air lines, or clocking the backing plate) I tried to rotate my cans on my last bob by loosening the jamb nut and had no luck. 3'' will give me plenty of clearance -- let me know what you guys think. I'll get some pics today.
 

scarab63

New member
30
0
0
Location
ma
Mistake on my part. I put 1/4" then second guessed myself. My buddy made the bottom plates. They are 1/2" c chanel. The lift blocks are 3x 3/8". Nothing is torqued down quite yet. Well use a 1/2" gun for that. Gotta open up the spring pin holes on the blocks a c hair more first.

My buddy suggested having the shackles slightly raked forward, says it may help soften the ride a little more. He's done a LOT more fab and building than me so we went with it.
 

Attachments

Vintage iron

Active member
1,123
16
38
Location
Falmouth Ma.
Did you read the thread from the guy in NH who had is buddy bob his truck? It is long thread and lots of hard lessons were taught there.
 
Last edited:

scarab63

New member
30
0
0
Location
ma
Can't say I have. But I'd guess by referring that you're eluding that something you see is an issue?
 

infidel got me

Well-known member
1,679
32
48
Location
Newberry, Florida
5 TON today

Sorry-- no pics today my boss is sick and I cant get in the shop to work on truck:cry::mad::sad::cry:
My driveshaft should be done tomorrow, so I can pick it up, weld up the rest of the rear, re-plumb rear air lines, reinstall bed, paint, and then bolt all exterior parts! Whew I am gonna be busy. I have to get this done for reddingers by the 25th.
 
That looks pretty good so far, for some reason I was thinking I needed to use solid blocks for the spacers and I was going to use 5/8 flat bar for the bottom plates, I'll probably still use 5/8 or 3/4 for the bottom but I like the square tubing idea for some reason I hadn't really considered it, I may cap the open ends though just for some extra stability insurance and for appearances.
 

Vintage iron

Active member
1,123
16
38
Location
Falmouth Ma.
Jeepnasty did a great job. This is the thread I Recommend reading. "Bobbing my M931 Suggestions, Advice, Recommendations for a trailer bed installation??" Read it all the way through.
 
Last edited:

infidel got me

Well-known member
1,679
32
48
Location
Newberry, Florida
20160208_145809.jpg20160208_145813.jpg20160208_145819.jpg20160208_145858.jpg20160208_150123.jpg20160208_150144.jpg20160208_150123.jpghere are the pics. of what I made. I used square tube 1/4 inch, I made 4 inserts that stand upright which will be welded in and closed in. It will be strong enough to hold up to anything I throw at it. I did drill center holes for spring pin. These will be boxed off/ends closed. I could just go the easy route and leave the 2x4 blocks in there what do you guys think? More pics when finished.
 

scarab63

New member
30
0
0
Location
ma
Jeepnasty did a great job. This is the thread I Recommend reading. "Bobbing my M931 Suggestions, Advice, Recommendations for a trailer bed installation??" Read it all the way through.
looked it over. can't say that it was a whole lot of help honestly.......am i missing something here??????????

should be ready for a road test by weekend. then install the bed and 1600s in the next week or two. hopefully this snow melts soon.
 
Last edited:
Well I thought I should use solid blocks, so yeah I think the inserts are a good idea. Even if they are overkill if they prevent a catastrophic failure they were well worth the work. Think about all the lift blocks you've seen for 1/2ton pickups they are usually solid or are built like a masonry block with lots of vertical support, if 3/16 wall square tube would work they would have been using that years ago. So yes I like your tubing idea and yes I like the tubing inserts and caps welded on too, and I don't have access to any solid stock anymore, now I'd be at the mercy of a heavy fabrication shop to cut me the blocks I'm sure I can get a couple feel of tubing for what 50$ that's easier than what I had in mind.
 

infidel got me

Well-known member
1,679
32
48
Location
Newberry, Florida
cost

What size is the tubing you're making the space block out of? 3" X ? X 3/8 ?
Lockjosh- Its 3''x4''x3/8 I am lucky cause there is a company about 4 miles from me called Ameri-trail and they build boat/landscape trailers. I have a buddy that works there and I can pick through their scrap pile. They also order all my metal for cheap. The tubing is the perfect width under the spring, its gonna' work perfectly. If you have a sawsall and a drill, you should have no problem making a set. My lower plates cost me 100 bucks but I had 4 made, I'm only using 2. I'm gonna' weld my tubing to the axle and use the flat plate on the bottom/by where the nuts go.
 
Last edited:

Vintage iron

Active member
1,123
16
38
Location
Falmouth Ma.
They keep the tire bead sealed against the rim. Use plenty of tire lube and squeen them into a bean shape with a ratchet strap to make it easier to get in.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks