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Bobbed engine swap and hydo powersteering

JasonS

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Tried my best, Tom: just found out how to convert the drawings into PDF files, using NITRO PDF READER... Still guessing how one should proceed to enlarge it to reach real size??? Please explain the trick.:???:

Not sure if I would trust a sheet of paper to transport critical dimensions onto the frame section in Q. Paper expands/contracts considerably depending the humidity. Or is there something else I'm missing?

For anyone interested, I can e-mail the original drawings in bmp (or their much lighter JPG versions) They all are made to scale 1pixel = 1mm so if you open it in MS PAINT it's only a matter of measuring with the cursor and convert to inches if preferred.

G.
I think that the best method (and what I plan to do) is use the cad file and CNC mill to drill out the holes of a new frame stiffener. Using the original steering box holes for aligniment, drill out the rest of the holes using the frame stiffener as the template. I'd probably free-hand the large sector shaft hole OR machine some spacers to mount the steering box inboard 1/4" and not have to cut the extremely large hole.
 

m-35tom

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G, i thought about this some more, you would need a scanner capable of handling the full size original. then with it in pdf, it can be printed by setting print size to 100%. there may be a better way, but pdf maintains the integerty of the drawing. i did this with my desktop scanner last year when someone in norway wanted a pattern i had made for my TR8 and it worked well.

tom
 

gringeltaube

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I think that the best method (and what I plan to do) is use the cad file and CNC mill to drill out the holes of a new frame stiffener. Using the original steering box holes for aligniment, drill out the rest of the holes using the frame stiffener as the template. I'd probably free-hand the large sector shaft hole OR machine some spacers to mount the steering box inboard 1/4" and not have to cut the extremely large hole.
YES for using the reinforcement plate as template. Just keep in mind that some of the existing bolt holes in the frame are used either as is or enlarged so I would start there. All others can be drilled progressively by bolting/ drilling plate and frame together.
If you decided to mount the box using 1/4" spacers to avoid that large center hole the gap left between the steering gear and the IP's booster pump will be reduced to only about 5/16".

G.
 

JasonS

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the box that I am using is an hf54017 it came out of 1975 to 1980 ford ln700 and the pitman arm came from the same application. as for the drag link I'm using the stock deuce one with a tapered ball stud added to the other end.
What is the center to center length of your pitman arm?
 

cuukvee85

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JasonS ...The center to center of mine is 9 Inches. I thought i could use the factory drag link by adding another ball stud, but i didnt realize the orientation is 180 off so i am now trying to figure out what im going to use.
 

deathrowdave

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What is the OD measuremnet of your wheel adapter ? You can purchase or find Ball Studs at salvage yards for fork trucks they use the same type ball studs . Crown Lift Trucks online has a great catalog . Thanks,Dave
 

Wozdirt

Member
Thanks to all. This is great information for those of us planning to do this mod.

I really like the layout templates. I think I am going to print them out and adjust the print size percentage till it matches the frame size/bolt hole configuration properly and go from there.

Does anyone know if the HF54 series box will clear the winch drive shaft when used with spacers or mounted flush to the frame? I was thinking of having the winch driveshaft modified with s short section of small diameter solid round stock where it passes the I.P. / steering box area if need be.

Thanks, Ray
 

cuukvee85

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So this weekend was a productive one. I got the engine and tranny Back in and running. Now just have to mount the fenders and figure out where to mount the p.s. res and get some lines made. The engine seems to run very strong. Cant wait to drive it.
 

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gringeltaube

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............... slow progress but shes getting there.
You are doing nice work, Jon! Usually good things take good time...
And I can see you solved the draglink problem already.[thumbzup]

........Does anyone know if the HF54 series box will clear the winch drive shaft when used with spacers or mounted flush to the frame?...........
YES, in either case, but not to much left for using spacers.
Pics show the box mounted without spacers, sitting flush to the frame inside. About 5/8" left from DS to nearest point of steering box.

G.
 

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treeguy

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Jon, that looks great! Did the crate engine come that color or did you paint it? When I did the head gasket I painted mine that same color. What did you do to resolve the drag link/pitman arm issue?
 

cuukvee85

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treeguy .. the engine did come that color but I did repaint it to freshen it up. For the draglink I cut and welded one from the ford. Don't really like doing that to steering components but didn't really have much of a choice. I beveled and heated before welding to make sure I got good penetration hopefully it holds.
 

JasonS

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treeguy .. the engine did come that color but I did repaint it to freshen it up. For the draglink I cut and welded one from the ford. Don't really like doing that to steering components but didn't really have much of a choice. I beveled and heated before welding to make sure I got good penetration hopefully it holds.
Can you share the length of your draglink? I live two hours from my truck. Having the details really helps me get as much prep'ed ahead of time as possible. I am having the local machihne shop make a sleeve to mate two tie rod ends together.
 

cuukvee85

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mine measures 16" center to center . I did a mod to my drag link to index it back a tooth that gringeltaube had figured out to give the steering the right geometry . so that's something your going to have measure on your truck to be sure.
 
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