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Boost issues?

patracy

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Ive been thinking about swapping in a detroit for a long time now. However I just said WHAT THE HECK ill just see how much this little baby can put out. so yesterday I went and got a boost gauge, already had a good digital pyro. I CRANKED the fuel up like 7 flats of the nut. she ran very well but still had some wiggle room. So I cranked it another 4-5 flats and now i get 20 psi of boost at 1150 EGT smack dab behind the turbo_Oh and I had already cranked the fuel up a bit before that. Anyone every put a big turbo on a deuce? like a detroit diesel turbo much like the one pictured?This turbo is AT LEAST twice as big as the deuce hair dryer. Im thinking of doing that with an Air to water cooler setup from here http://www.frozenboost.com/product_...=1007&osCsid=cf57e9e804308d03b551f49a0696078f. should be able to do a cable on the FDC to control boost and egt's with an aftercooler it should keep the egts down and be able to produce around 30 psi pretty easy. much more than that I think I might blow the head off the poor girl.

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You're already walking on thin ice at 20psi. I will bet money that you'll lift the head at 30psi due to the high CR.

Bigger turbo isn't always better. A turbo with the proper map to operating range is best.
 

Streetgliderx

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Yeah for now I'm just gonna dial mine back. My new cable will be in in a couple days and I'll get vid of the smoke and rpms. I haven't even tried to take it of the mtn where I live yet. I'm a bit worried it's gonna get hot
 

Floridianson

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Glider I think you will find you are putting out the boost. I not a fan of useing the hills to check boost numbers for the first time. You have to be able to get the motor to full 2600 rpm then in a gear where the hill starts to take over and with the throttel pedded still to the floor the RPM is dropping when it hits 2400 read your pyro. and see what you have.
 

Ryan123

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Yeah it seems to do ok with 20 psi. Like I said before Im really just curious as to what it can handle.If it grenaded I wouldnt be too upset being as that would just seal the deal for me to put a 6v92 with an eaton double over and a brownie box in lol. The coolant cooled manifold is somewhat of an issue however. Because even with an air to water cooler setup which will cool far better than the manifold will, Im thinking it will just heat it back up when it goes through it. So that being said there maybe no need for an aftercooler if you cant get rid of the manifold cooler.

My head gaskets have been leaking for some time now, but they are definitely getting worse haha. Im sure the combo of bad gasket with 20 psi of boost doesnt help the situation much.
 
862
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From me and Floridianson talking in pm, I'd have no problem holding the engine at 1200° for a good while, probably a minute or more. If I remember correctly he even said you could run it to 1250° or 1300° for a few seconds. If that's the case I can't get mine over 1200° so I might go up a bit more on my fuel.

I'm about to tear into my front end redoing all hoses and a good bit of air lines and fuel lines then paint the engine compartment. The one thing that worries me is I do have a spot on the back of the heads where at one point it was wet with oil. I'm going to steam clean the engine and see if it's still leaking but I'd also like to re torque the heads. I have a LDT-465-D and it was rebuilt in '97 so I'm hoping it's just a bit of weeping. I don't feel like doing head gaskets so I might turn the fuel back down or leave it where it is now.

The earlier statement of walking on thin ice at 20° psi of boost scares me a bit.... cause I can easily bury my 0-15 psi gauge back around to 0.
 

doghead

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You'll need to back it down when you put larger tires on.
 

Floridianson

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I don't rember saying about anything over 1200*. Don't ask to much and don't stay there to long. I will check my pm's .
 
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Floridianson

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I said the agreed temp most will look for is 1200*. No worries your not going to gain buy anymore heat. I think your tweeked to the max.
 

patracy

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1200 is the safe number. Pure aluminum (the pistons are an alloy, they can handle more heat) will melt at 1221*F. That's why 1200F is the typical number everyone uses. That's also pre-turbo. Any post turbo pyrometers need to back that number down 100-200 degrees.
 

Streetgliderx

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Thanks fellas. I'm real happy that I can hold 40mph in 4th now on the mtn. I used to down shift to 3rd and almost not make it before needing to shift to 2nd. I may just leave it and keep my eyes on it. After all I'm the only driver for it. I still couldn't achieve more than 12psi so I may still order a 15psi gauge. I just like to see the needle fly.
 

Floridianson

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Glider are you holding the peddel to the floor. You will not hurt the truck to hit the Govener for your test. You need to get the tac fixed and even see if the truck can get to 2600rpm load no load.
 

Streetgliderx

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Before I turned it up I could hit 2600 no problem. And during my mtn pull I maintained 40mph and 1100ish degrees by floating the pedal. I was not flooring the pedal. I'll post new vid as soon as tach arrives.
 
862
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Location
Reading Pa
I can't believe there is that much difference between your truck and my truck. Here is my truck from last night I sent the video to gliderx last night. This hill is around 2 miles long maybe more it's not really really steep but it climbs then plateaus then climbs more. I was running 55mph in 5th about 1/2 to 2/3 pedal if I put it to the floor you see what it does.....

http://youtu.be/uKbP0wW1qfE
 
862
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Location
Reading Pa
We are gonna swap gauges since I'm building more then 15 psi and he's not quite reaching 15 psi....

Anyone have a answer to why other then his is a c turbo and mine is a D turbo?
 
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