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Bought a M818

tractors0130

New member
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Joliet, Illinois
Going to be tackling the fuel system with the 5 ton shortly. What fuel line should I use to replace what's there? Going to be replacing the filter and everything. Also going to get the dual tanks working. It appears they hacked into them and made a mess trying to keep it running.
If you look at the link for the fuel selector rebuild, you'll see the pics I posted using the Parker push-lock hose. The push-lock hose is good for a couple hundred pounds pressure using the barbed fittings.
 

74M35A2

Well-known member
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Location
Livonia, MI
If you don't want to source parts, take the hoses off and into a place that makes hydraulic hoses, tell them what fluid you are using (diesel fuel). They have all the correct fittings to clamp on and can clone them.
 

OC455

New member
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Location
Floyd NY
If you look at the link for the fuel selector rebuild, you'll see the pics I posted using the Parker push-lock hose. The push-lock hose is good for a couple hundred pounds pressure using the barbed fittings.
I'll check your post out. Those sound like a good upgrade.
 

OC455

New member
96
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0
Location
Floyd NY
If you don't want to source parts, take the hoses off and into a place that makes hydraulic hoses, tell them what fluid you are using (diesel fuel). They have all the correct fittings to clamp on and can clone them.
If they were the stock lines I would do it in a heart beat....but they are all cobbled so I don't know what is original or scabbed together.
 

OC455

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Location
Floyd NY
Ordered a replacement fuel filter kit and a dual fuel line feed kit. Then going to work on the tanks and replacing all the fuel lines to and from. Need to drain and clean the tanks. That will be a good start. Need to get the passenger side diamond plate fuel tank cover and the diamond plate battery cover/step.

My truck has two giant Caterpillar batteries in it. Those should work good.
 

OC455

New member
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Location
Floyd NY
I removed the fuel tanks for cleaning. I removed the spare tire rack....it's scrap because it was hacked apart before I even got it. Drained out the crank case. Next is to drain the coolant and pressure check the radiator. I have a "laundry" list of things to check and go through. The tachometer isn't working, need to check and see why it's not. Then make sure the sir system is up to snuff and holding air.

I'll be looking to price out tires and HEMTT rims in a few months.
 

OC455

New member
96
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Location
Floyd NY
Got the fuel tank selector valve out the other day, took it apart tonight. Removed the hoses and will get new ones made for it. It was gunked up in the valve. Got it out and used parts cleaner to get the heavy stuff out. Still some gunk in it, what's the best way to get it clean and shiny?
 

OC455

New member
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Location
Floyd NY
As per suggestions of members here, I used some 0000 steel wool to clean the inside of the valve. Now I need some new O-rings and I can put it back together. Gonna find a place in the area that can make new short lines from the valve. Be easier and a lot less of a headache for me. Now to get the tanks apart and check and clean the insides. Replace the sending units/gaskets on the tanks. That and I need the supply and return lines from the tanks too. Are they 1/2 and 3/8inch correct?
 

OC455

New member
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Location
Floyd NY
Went to one of the Mack truck locations in the area to see about getting the hoses made for the fuel valve...they wanted $30 to have one hose made and said the other one they would have to take apart and reuse the fittings...going to check a few other places.
 

tractors0130

New member
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Location
Joliet, Illinois
I probably didn't have $30 in all the hoses when I replumbed all my 818. All the fittings were the barbed push on fittings that were reuseable. The parker push lock hose worked well with the fittings. If yours has that type of fittings it should work, if it has the compression collars it probably won't.
 

OC455

New member
96
1
0
Location
Floyd NY
I probably didn't have $30 in all the hoses when I replumbed all my 818. All the fittings were the barbed push on fittings that were reuseable. The parker push lock hose worked well with the fittings. If yours has that type of fittings it should work, if it has the compression collars it probably won't.

Got an idea of where I can find the lines or where I can get the correct fitting on line somewhere? Thanks.
 

OC455

New member
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Location
Floyd NY
Drained the coolant out of it today.....pretty muddy looking. Will flush out the motor later. Want to get the radiator checked too.
 

tractors0130

New member
137
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Location
Joliet, Illinois
Got an idea of where I can find the lines or where I can get the correct fitting on line somewhere? Thanks.
The place that makes my hydraulic hoses is a Parker dealer and they supplied me with the push lock hose. You can just google it and buy it online, just make sure that it's diesel compatible. What type of fittings are on your current hoses?
 

OC455

New member
96
1
0
Location
Floyd NY
So the feed lines are 1/2inch and the return lines are 3/8inch? The Parker push lok hose (836) looks like it is compatible with diesel. Just have to figure out what size the threads are for the fittings....I'm assuming they are NPT?
 

tractors0130

New member
137
4
0
Location
Joliet, Illinois
The fittings are npt (3/8" and 1/2"), I was able to reuse all my original fittings after carefully removing the old cracked and brittle hose. This is what my original push on fittings looked like.
 

OC455

New member
96
1
0
Location
Floyd NY
I'll check and see if I can re-use the fittings and order some of the push lok hose from Parker. One of the things I'm trying to figure out, while draining and cleaning things on the truck, I found that someone had un-plugged the wires from the backside of the headlight buckets. I started plugging things back in...one wired didn't look too good (passenger side). I need to plug them in on the driver's side. They removed the 3 lever switch for some reason?! I have a push button switch already. Probably need to fix some wires in the near future....
 
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OC455

New member
96
1
0
Location
Floyd NY
On the supply lines, I cut off the hose and cleaned all the brass fittings. They look like they will be fine to re-use. The return lines look like I'll need to have to take off the fittings and see if I can re-use them and have them crimped on the hoses. Have to find a place to do that...
 

OC455

New member
96
1
0
Location
Floyd NY
I bought a dual feed fuel line kit and spin on fuel filter kit from Ken Spencer. I was piecing everything together (sort of pre-assembly), what a great kit to purchase. I told him I had the M818 and he made sure that the correct fittings for the fuel valve were included. It is a well thought out kit. Buy with confidence if you are looking into a spin on fuel filter kit or the dual feed fuel line kit.
 

OC455

New member
96
1
0
Location
Floyd NY
Well....after checking around the local area, no one could give me an idea or wanted to give me any suggestions as to what to do for the fuel return lines off the valve. So, I went to NAPA and got some 3/8inch fuel line, and then came back home and cut the brass crimps off the old lines and removed the fittings. At NAPA the gent at the counter suggested using fuel injection hose clamps instead of regular hose clamps. They seem to hold pretty tight.

In my mind and I don't know why, but wouldn't one of these places that make hydraulic lines or fuel lines, have brass ferrules that they use and could just slip over the end of the new hose and then insert the fittings into the end and crimp them? I am just about to purchase my own hand crimping tool and ferrules for when I do my A/C system. Will see how it works out.
 
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