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Boys, Check your nuts!!!
- Thread starter airmech3839
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airmech3839
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Welcome
Your welcome! I am on the road for work but hope that when I get back my new studs and nuts are at the house so I can start getting a more comfortable feeling about driving down the road!! Great info by the hijackers!!! It is somewhat relivant considering I will have that problem on the LH side rear axles... I have locktighted them and still had some of the axle covers on the rear come loose!! I only used blue(medium) I guess it will be red(high strength)...
Your welcome! I am on the road for work but hope that when I get back my new studs and nuts are at the house so I can start getting a more comfortable feeling about driving down the road!! Great info by the hijackers!!! It is somewhat relivant considering I will have that problem on the LH side rear axles... I have locktighted them and still had some of the axle covers on the rear come loose!! I only used blue(medium) I guess it will be red(high strength)...
Jake0147
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Axle gaskets should go on dry (or with grease if you can't hold it in place, but they're pretty easy to hold in place...), but with NO silicone sealer on them.
Alternately, it is quite acceptable to eliminate the gasket in lieu of silicone sealant, but NEVER use both. You will have repeat failures down the road. {Or immediate failures if the silicone tears the gasket in the process of squishing out of the way). When making a gasket of t his type, you do NOT let the RTV skin over before torqing the bolts. 99.8 percent of that seal should be metal to metal, with just the tiniest bit of RTV left for "touch up" at a scratch or deeper than normal machine mark.
If you do have an axle shaft loosen up, take one of the bolts and torque it down until the head pops off of it. You'll be surprised. Just like the lug nuts (very much the same application...), once they've been worked back and forth, they're junk, and will probably loosen or break again, just when it's least convenient.
Alternately, it is quite acceptable to eliminate the gasket in lieu of silicone sealant, but NEVER use both. You will have repeat failures down the road. {Or immediate failures if the silicone tears the gasket in the process of squishing out of the way). When making a gasket of t his type, you do NOT let the RTV skin over before torqing the bolts. 99.8 percent of that seal should be metal to metal, with just the tiniest bit of RTV left for "touch up" at a scratch or deeper than normal machine mark.
If you do have an axle shaft loosen up, take one of the bolts and torque it down until the head pops off of it. You'll be surprised. Just like the lug nuts (very much the same application...), once they've been worked back and forth, they're junk, and will probably loosen or break again, just when it's least convenient.
Heavysteven
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Airmech, what did you torque your lug nuts down too when you reinstalled? Have they come loose since?
Manual says 400-425 on the bud nuts and 325-355 on the lugs. I was wondering if these were correct.
Manual says 400-425 on the bud nuts and 325-355 on the lugs. I was wondering if these were correct.
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airmech3839
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German torque.....Good-n-tight!!...... didnt have a torque wrench so I made sure they were snug. After I changed all the studs to the proper thread direction I was much better! Only had the one you saw in Kennesaw come loose all others are good and that one is too now.
militarysteel
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im just glad you didnt kill anyone on the road !
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Going through the 1956 Deuce before a tour tonight and found some of the flywheel bolts backed off again so decided we could bump a Dinosaur thread as a reminder to "Check your nuts......behind your nuts".
This thread should probably be in the Safety forum but it had some content so I jumped on it.
The flywheel bolts in my 60 year old truck may need retirement so we made the habit of pulling the bell housing cover and touching all 30 of my nuts with a torque wrench.
The Torque Wrench Specs for the Early Deuce and the G749 series are on page 422 of TM 9-1819AC and page 279 of TM 9-8025-2....but don't look for the "torus cover to flywheel" specs in the spec sections.
The "torus cover to flywheel" bolt specs are buried in the bowels of TM 9-8024, page 382 (11) 25 to 28 pound-feet torque.
Enjoy the weekend and CHECK YOUR SPEC.
This thread should probably be in the Safety forum but it had some content so I jumped on it.
The flywheel bolts in my 60 year old truck may need retirement so we made the habit of pulling the bell housing cover and touching all 30 of my nuts with a torque wrench.
The Torque Wrench Specs for the Early Deuce and the G749 series are on page 422 of TM 9-1819AC and page 279 of TM 9-8025-2....but don't look for the "torus cover to flywheel" specs in the spec sections.
The "torus cover to flywheel" bolt specs are buried in the bowels of TM 9-8024, page 382 (11) 25 to 28 pound-feet torque.
Enjoy the weekend and CHECK YOUR SPEC.
blisters13
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After I painted my 2 1/2 tonner, I tightened the lugs to the specs as noted above by HeavySteven, and after only about 150 miles over about seven trips I noticed rust behind all the nuts on both front wheels. They had in fact come loose, so I field-tightened them best I could. At home I re-torqued all again, including inner/outer sets on the rears; the rears were not "loose" but they were not tight either.
I use a 3:1 torque multiplier and a Snap-On torque wrench. The only thing I can think of is the new paint compressed enough to loosen the initial tightening.
Anyways, I always do a walk-around, which is why I noticed it.
Good, important thread! Thanks
I use a 3:1 torque multiplier and a Snap-On torque wrench. The only thing I can think of is the new paint compressed enough to loosen the initial tightening.
Anyways, I always do a walk-around, which is why I noticed it.
Good, important thread! Thanks
airmech3839
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This is a big safety thing and not just for deuces... It can happen to any MV...
I gave my new nuts a torque plus a smidge and have not had any problems since. I still mark al the bolts and nuts on the wheels and hubs. Dykem pen in the glove box in case it gets rubbed off or I have to re-torque.
"smidge" is technical term for a little extra
I gave my new nuts a torque plus a smidge and have not had any problems since. I still mark al the bolts and nuts on the wheels and hubs. Dykem pen in the glove box in case it gets rubbed off or I have to re-torque.
"smidge" is technical term for a little extra
dmetalmiki
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Yes..well a little known fact is that wheel studs and nuts not lubed tend to break more than " tight unlubed " ones.
airmech3839
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UHHHH.... clarification please.. ???????
dmetalmiki
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wheel stud problems.
On our fleet we found that the wheel nuts that were lubed did not shear.(ever (wheras)) the wheel nuts that were dry did (ocasionally) shear. just my 1 peneth.
On our fleet we found that the wheel nuts that were lubed did not shear.(ever (wheras)) the wheel nuts that were dry did (ocasionally) shear. just my 1 peneth.
airmech3839
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Ok... I get it now. Thanks for the insight!
bones1
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what is the correct torque for Deuce lug nuts?
DieselBob
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AAAHHHH darn. Next
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DieselBob
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Install and hand tighten six wheel capnuts (2) on wheel studs (3).
Tighten six wheel capnuts (2) in tightening sequence shown 400–425 lb-ft (542–576 N•m).
Lift wheel (1) and install on wheel capnuts (2) with six stud nuts (5). On front wheel, ensure brake
inspection plate (6) is visible through ventilation hole.
Install and hand-tighten six new wheel cap nuts (5).
Tighten six stud nuts (5) in sequence shown on front wheel 325–355 lb-ft (441–481 N•m) and six
stud nuts (5) on wheel (1) 325–355 lb-ft (441–481 N•m).
Tighten six wheel capnuts (2) in tightening sequence shown 400–425 lb-ft (542–576 N•m).
Lift wheel (1) and install on wheel capnuts (2) with six stud nuts (5). On front wheel, ensure brake
inspection plate (6) is visible through ventilation hole.
Install and hand-tighten six new wheel cap nuts (5).
Tighten six stud nuts (5) in sequence shown on front wheel 325–355 lb-ft (441–481 N•m) and six
stud nuts (5) on wheel (1) 325–355 lb-ft (441–481 N•m).
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Large fleets, waste haulers, bus companies use wheel check flags.
http://www.wheel-check.com/
Easy to use and cheap. They can be used right or left as they are universal. Available at truck pro if you have one in your area. .60 each
I have installed on my 5 ton. They do work. Found 2 that moved slightly after I switched a tire. Literally a walk around will confirm your are good.
http://www.wheel-check.com/
Easy to use and cheap. They can be used right or left as they are universal. Available at truck pro if you have one in your area. .60 each
I have installed on my 5 ton. They do work. Found 2 that moved slightly after I switched a tire. Literally a walk around will confirm your are good.
ATPTac
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That's probably the easiest and most fool proof way to make sure all your lug nuts haven't moved. I started noticing them on commercial trucks a few years back. I wonder if they make OD ones...
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They did stand out when I first installed as they are neon green but the sun in the sub tropics hereThat's probably the easiest and most fool proof way to make sure all your lug nuts haven't moved. I started noticing them on commercial trucks a few years back. I wonder if they make OD ones...
has faded/bleached them so they don't stand out as much and kind of blended in with the tan.
rustystud
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Our buses use fluorescent Green ones, kinda closeThat's probably the easiest and most fool proof way to make sure all your lug nuts haven't moved. I started noticing them on commercial trucks a few years back. I wonder if they make OD ones...