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Brake bleeding doesn't seem to be going as planned

JCKnife

JCKnife

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Guys I've been reading brake-bleeding threads and also the TM. I have built a pressure bleeder out of a garden sprayer and all required fittings into the cap on the MC. Here are my questions:

1. Using a pressure bleeder, is it still necessary to bleed the MC? If so how and when? I have not seen any advice on this.
2. Is it important that I hook the pressure bleeder up to the MC with no air in the line? Currently I have my shutoff valve about halfway down the hose between the sprayer and the MC cap connection. Does it need to be at / near the end?

Thank you.
 
gimpyrobb

gimpyrobb

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Air in the line should make no difference. There will just be an air pocket at the top of the master cyl. Bleed the airpack and then the cyls at the back of the truck, working your way to the closest cyl.
 
JCKnife

JCKnife

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The front wheels I replaced the cylinders, hoses and one hard line. Didn't open the rears at all. Should I still start at the rear?
 
Vondy

Vondy

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Does any one have pics of their pressure bleeders? After about an hour or so last night, refilling the master cylender about 20 times, I gave up.
 
J

JoshHefnerX

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JCKnife said:
The front wheels I replaced the cylinders, hoses and one hard line. Didn't open the rears at all. Should I still start at the rear?
Click to expand...

You should, even if you somehow didn't get air that far in the lines, if you do the backs - you'll know you have fresh fluid back there also.

Josh
 
bigugh20

bigugh20

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dozer1 said:
You would either adapt it to the top of the reservoir (whatever it takes) or unhook it from the MC and use pressure bleeder as normal.
Click to expand...

or if you use the Motive brand bleeder that HndrsonJ linked above, and have a tilton remote reservour (Summit Racing, and I suspect also what Wilwood uses for theres) you could get the adapter from Motive also that simply replaces the vented cap with a non vented one with the hose hooked into it.
 
JCKnife

JCKnife

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I've got the pressure bleeder assembled now and I'll share a couple things I learned:

1. Get the longer 1/8" nipple to come out of the MC cap, not the shorter one. You want it sticking up through the floor of the cab when it's screwed down.

2. End your hose and top your cap stem with quick-connect fittings. That's the best way to screw the cap down then connect the bleeder.

I'll post a pic of mine later on.
 
JCKnife

JCKnife

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OK, wow, first attempt at bleeding was another humbling experience. This is supposed to be easy with a pressure bleeder, huh? Here are the 2 main issues I'm having:

1. What kind of wrench works well on the bleeder screws? I tried an open-end, box-end, and line wrench and all had trouble getting enough clearance to turn. Very tight space, esp. in the rear where the wheels are on. In the front I have the wheels off still so it was a little easier.

2. At the airpack and at the rear wheels, it seems there's no point at having a hose on the bleeder valve. When I loosen the bleeder screw, fluid comes out around the base not out the tip. I never got one drop of fluid into the hose.

End result: got the air out of the front where I had changed the brake hoses and one hard line, but still no pedal firmness at all. Right now I have a 13,000 lb lawn ornament and I'm not eager to try it again!

Any advice appreciated.
 
M

MitchG

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JC did you check to make sure the bleeder screws weren't plugged? I know a couple of mine were dirt dobbered up and I couldn't get anything thru the screw.

I will second the quick connect fittings and the isolation valve. I used a tee on mine and have the line running to the remote res. fitted with a shut off valve. The top of the tee has a male quick connect that is gasketed. I put a vacuum line cap over it when not in use to keep any trash from accumulating on the fitting. The only problem I had installing it was I had to slightly enlarge the hole in the crossmember that's above the MC cap to accomodate the other end of the quick connect when bleeding. I'll post some pics if anyone is interested. I hadn't put any up because there were already a few threads that had some in them on this topic.

This reminds me of another point I meant to mention a while ago. Check all the steel lines on your brakes closely. When I got my truck the brakes were solid, no leaks etc. I did a quick visual at the time and everything looked good to go. I came out to the truck one morning after coming home from doing some cooking with the MKT and no brakes!!! There was a large wet spot on the inside of the passengers side tire where most of the brake fluid had leaked out. I thought Wheel cyl at first but after a closer look it was leaking at the fitting where the rubber line connects to the steel line on the axle tube. Apparantly Soldier "A" had tightened the new rubber line to the steel fitting without holding both sides. The steel line had twisted right at the ferrule and finally broke there. Thank goodness I found it in the yard and not on the road. Just an FYI sorry about hijacking!!!
 
Heavysteven

Heavysteven

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Joe
I be home around 7:00 PM Georgia time. PM of you need my number.

1. Closed end wrench
2. Remove the bleeder screws and clean with brake cleaner there clogged. Going to lose brake fuild so don't have pressure on the bleeder when you do this.

You will get it fixed, been there. Every time it happens I take breath and stop till I settle down.
 
JCKnife

JCKnife

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Are the bleeder screws from the airpack and the wheel cylinders the same size / spec? If so I have a couple extras. I put new wheel cylinders on the front and saved the old ones, so those are sitting in the garage.

I will look for a 7/16" brake bleeder wrench before trying again. Seems like a rare item, though.
 
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