Brake Bleeding

[wreckerman893]

Some states require large trucks to have maker lights (otherwise know as clearance lights) on top of the cab. Military trucks were generally exempt since a lot of them were soft tops.

 

[UPFINN]

My buddy who is a mechanic did some looking in his engine books and did find that White Motors did make a 6 cylinder gas engine in the 1960s. Funny that it would be put in a deuce during a time when the multifuel was taking over. Perhaps in 1966 during the heart of the Vietnam war when production lines were most likely running at breakneck speed they just threw in a gasser to get the truck going. I noticed in the pictures of the truck there is no exhaust stack either.

I highly doubt this truck was WWII era and rebuilt.

Looks like I will have to pass this truck up as I need a diesel for utility reasons. This mystery truck does have a great cool factor and price but can't afford to collect space takers at this point.

Seems collecting vintage vehicles and items can become an expensive addiction. Followed my herritage and made a Finnish WWII rifle collection. Fortuneatly only two main rifles were used during that era. If there were more it would be certain I would not be looking at vehicles right now. Will search for another truck before vintage HF radios catch my eye.

 

[UPFINN]

Here it is. Too bad it's a gasser.

 

[jwaller]

If you know which axle is leaking then you could take a pair of vice grip pliers and crimp the flex line for that axle and make your trip but I never told you that and I don't warranty this information use at your own risk.

 

[caliber1]

Looks to be in good shape. Front wheel cylinders are pretty easy to replace. Then just bleed the system. Any pictures of the motor?

 

[UPFINN]

No engine pics. This is the truck I was going look at today. Decided not to when I found out it wasn't a multifuel.

Looking for others m35a2s in the northern Great Lakes area.

 

[Rusty nuts]

Sometime people dont know what they are talking about. When I first talked to the guy about the truck I got it was listed on CL as a gas engine only because that is what it said on the title and that is what he put in the ad. When I called him and asked he said it runs on diesel so I got a pic of the motor to verify. I would try to get a pic of the motor and that would tell you. Truck looks to be in good condition and worth checking out for $3k

 

[UPFINN]

I called the guy and he said it was gasoline. He had been driving it so it has to be. By any chance that it was a multifuel engine, it is probably damaged.

Could possibly do an engine swap. Have seen multifuel engines selling for around 600 bucks. Would also need a new injector pump, lines, and filters. Probably more work than it's worth.

 

[UPFINN]

Well after making some calls I located good condition multifuel engines with all the works for between 800 to 1500. After getting chewed out for turning down a good work truck for the only reason being the engine type, I am now considering getting this truck and doing an engine swap when I have more $$. At least I'd have something that runs good for now that I can upgrade later. First have to figure out exactly what kind of engine, transfer case, and transmission this truck has.

 

[wb9btz]

Is that an aftermarket fiberglass cab top? Looks like a real nice truck... if it has the same tranny, transfer case and axles, it sure would be worth snapping it up and doing the engine swap as you seem to plan on doing. Go for it.

 

[212sparky]

it could be just a 465 with no turbo and the exhaust coming out the back of the truck.

 

[cattlerepairman]

I called the guy and he said it was gasoline. He had been driving it so it has to be. By any chance that it was a multifuel engine, it is probably damaged.

Could possibly do an engine swap. Have seen multifuel engines selling for around 600 bucks. Would also need a new injector pump, lines, and filters. Probably more work than it's worth.

My own truck is titled as GAS, because it solves a whack of emissions related issues. The multifuel's IP is lubed by engine oil, not by fuel as is custom with many other models. While fuel lubricity is certainly a good thing, it does not mean destruction for the multifuel IP if it is run on regular gas.
It would be interesting to see what the data plate says. The pic does not show a stack. Could be a true, early M44 series, with the exhaust between the duals. If so, you have a truck that is noticeably quieter! Maybe something else (fuel tanker?) that was converted into a cargo truck? Inquiring minds want to know!

If it is really a gas engine: There are a few M44 series gasser owners on this forum. First off, they are becoming somewhat rare. Secondly, owners say that they are as powerful as their multifuel brethren. Whether the worse fuel efficiency really matters is determined by how much you drive. Unleaded regular is also cheaper than diesel. I have read several times that the gasser has more "guts" than the multifuel. All things to consider...

 

[UPFINN]

My own truck is titled as GAS, because it solves a whack of emissions related issues. The multifuel's IP is lubed by engine oil, not by fuel as is custom with many other models. While fuel lubricity is certainly a good thing, it does not mean destruction for the multifuel IP if it is run on regular gas.
It would be interesting to see what the data plate says. The pic does not show a stack. Could be a true, early M44 series, with the exhaust between the duals. If so, you have a truck that is noticeably quieter! Maybe something else (fuel tanker?) that was converted into a cargo truck? Inquiring minds want to know!

If it is really a gas engine: There are a few M44 series gasser owners on this forum. First off, they are becoming somewhat rare. Secondly, owners say that they are as powerful as their multifuel brethren. Whether the worse fuel efficiency really matters is determined by how much you drive. Unleaded regular is also cheaper than diesel. I have read several times that the gasser has more "guts" than the multifuel. All things to consider...

Starting to warm up to the idea of a gasser. Sounds like this could be unique. It appears this truck may be a M44, however it should have singles and I am puzzled by the White Motors Straight Six engine. I see that the gasoline variant is powered by the 127hp OA331, made by REO and Continental. Would like to find out if it has the spicer 5 speed trans and the rockwell 2 speed transfer case. If so, in theory I can swap a multifuel in there. Wondering what the cost and difficulty of this task would be. I am no expert in engine swaps by any means but have helped remove engines at my schools auto shop. As for an engine, I can get a very good LTD 465 turbo for $1000 to $1500.

I'll try checking this deuce out while I wait for someone to get back to me about another deuce which is a multifuel and has a plow. This one does not have a winch, so I would have to get the winch kit, extend the bumper, and then rebuild the plow mounts. This is a pick your poison situation.

Anyways, kicking myself for turning down the truck viewing last weekend. Should have did my research beforehand. The lack of the stack was a clue. In a fix to get a work truck. At least in the meantime the gasser would get me moving. Shocked at the cost of insurance for newer turbo diesel work and dump trucks. A just barely running f450 is about the same price as a deuce but with a $1500 insurance cost to boot.

 

[UPFINN]

I found a deuce with a plow, but no winch. Would have to get the winch kit.

Looking around for information on whether or not both the original winch and 9ft plow would be too heavy together. I see it has been done with 5 tons but not the 2.5.

Anyone have any experience or input about this issue?

 

[cattlerepairman]

Common wisdom is that a stock Deuce with winch is already close to the weight rating of the front axle. The bed is centered over the tandems and a load adds little weight to the front axle.
Some very respected forum members repeatedly argued against adding any weight to a w/w Deuce front end.

On the other hand, there are Deuces equipped with plows and they seem to work and last. I cannot speak to what the wear and tear is on their front end. I also cannot imagine what plowing in a stock Deuce is like, with a rather poor turning radius and without power steering (and a heavily loaded front).

 

[swbradley1]

I've got two Deuces, one W/W and one WO/W and I can tell you there is not much difference in steering. Actually the one W/W steers much easier, has a stronger engine and feels better inside than the other one. If I had brakes on it I would drive it more.

There was a plow truck for sale close to me a couple of years ago and there is no way I want to drive it around for any reason. Maybe if it had power steering it might be manageable but not without it. I'm not a big fan of attaching a plow to the front of an MV that wasn't designed for it. I wouldn't do it on a 5-ton either. Go to a state auction and buy a former plow truck.

 

[UPFINN]

Thread has been dead so I figured I'd give an update.

Have decided to stay away from the gasser with leaky wheel cylinders even though it has no rust, great paint job, and new tires. It also had a somewhat high mileage than I would have liked although I can't remember off hand what it was.

Found a deuce 300 miles away down in Wisconsin with a winch, turbo, great tires, soft top, included hard top, bows, troop seats, and rubberized canvas. Very low miles, recently rebuilt transfer case in addition to engine/trans inspection, decent paint job, and only a little rust. Getting a great price on it. Going to head down this Saturday and if it checks out nice will pick it up and drive home Sunday. The truck had just got done with a 500 mile trip, runs great, and fluids are good. We will escort the deuce with the explorer we took down there and bring a tool/recovery kit with.

Any Steel Soldiers down in western and central Wisconsin who I could contact in case something goes wrong? I should probably load some of the TMs on my laptop too.

Feel kind of dumb for asking this but I've been reading of some big a$$ socket you need to have to remove a axel nut to change a tire. With all cars and civilian trucks I've worked on you just remove the lug nuts and pull the tire from the rotor/drum assembly.

If everything goes good, might finally have a awesome manure and firewood truck.

 

[brianp454]

Standard 1 1/2 inch 6 point socket will do. Oh, the main issue is turning it!

Thread has been dead so I figured I'd give an update.

Have decided to stay away from the gasser with leaky wheel cylinders even though it has no rust, great paint job, and new tires. It also had a somewhat high mileage than I would have liked although I can't remember off hand what it was.

Found a deuce 300 miles away down in Wisconsin with a winch, turbo, great tires, soft top, included hard top, bows, troop seats, and rubberized canvas. Very low miles, recently rebuilt transfer case in addition to engine/trans inspection, decent paint job, and only a little rust. Getting a great price on it. Going to head down this Saturday and if it checks out nice will pick it up and drive home Sunday. The truck had just got done with a 500 mile trip, runs great, and fluids are good. We will escort the deuce with the explorer we took down there and bring a tool/recovery kit with.

Any Steel Soldiers down in western and central Wisconsin who I could contact in case something goes wrong? I should probably load some of the TMs on my laptop too.

Feel kind of dumb for asking this but I've been reading of some big a$$ socket you need to have to remove a axel nut to change a tire. With all cars and civilian trucks I've worked on you just remove the lug nuts and pull the tire from the rotor/drum assembly.

If everything goes good, might finally have a awesome manure and firewood truck.

 

[welldigger]

Thread has been dead so I figured I'd give an update.

Have decided to stay away from the gasser with leaky wheel cylinders even though it has no rust, great paint job, and new tires. It also had a somewhat high mileage than I would have liked although I can't remember off hand what it was.

Found a deuce 300 miles away down in Wisconsin with a winch, turbo, great tires, soft top, included hard top, bows, troop seats, and rubberized canvas. Very low miles, recently rebuilt transfer case in addition to engine/trans inspection, decent paint job, and only a little rust. Getting a great price on it. Going to head down this Saturday and if it checks out nice will pick it up and drive home Sunday. The truck had just got done with a 500 mile trip, runs great, and fluids are good. We will escort the deuce with the explorer we took down there and bring a tool/recovery kit with.

Any Steel Soldiers down in western and central Wisconsin who I could contact in case something goes wrong? I should probably load some of the TMs on my laptop too.

Feel kind of dumb for asking this but I've been reading of some big a$$ socket you need to have to remove a axel nut to change a tire. With all cars and civilian trucks I've worked on you just remove the lug nuts and pull the tire from the rotor/drum assembly.

If everything goes good, might finally have a awesome manure and firewood truck.

The size eludes me at the moment but the lug nuts are a standard 6pt. socket. I think the socket you have in mind is the one you use for the spindle nut. You don't need to remove this to change a tire. This is to service the bearings and such. That socket is a 3" 8 sided socket.

 

[phil2968]

To remove the rear inner wheel from the hub requires a Budd socket to turn the thimble. Remember that the lugs on the left side of the truck should be left hand thread. I say should because one of my trucks came out of the NG with left hand nuts on the right! Good thing we looked close before putting the 3/4" drive Snap On impact to work!