• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Brake pedal maxed out

dirtyfingernails

New member
778
4
0
Location
Gainesville, FL
I drove the duece to work today. On the way back home, I noticed that brake pedal was hard as a rock--no give at all! Even the brake lights were permanently engaged! I released the pressure from my air tanks and it's the same! What gives? Rubber hoses seem to be intact with no depressions. Thanks for any help that could be offered.
Steve
 

clinto

Moderator, wonderful human being & practicing Deuc
Staff member
Administrator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
12,596
1,132
113
Location
Athens, Ga.
break a bleeder screw open and make sure not to be in the path of the brake fluid
 

sermis

Active member
1,844
17
38
Location
Temple, TX
Mine did the same a while back after I got the truck. There was trash in the bottom of the master cylinder from the PO. Took it off and inspected. It looked to be NOS or rebuild. Clleaned it out and have not had problems with it.
 

dirtyfingernails

New member
778
4
0
Location
Gainesville, FL
Opened the trailer line--no air. Opened the bleeder valve on the airpack and fluid streamed out--I could hear the brakes releasing at the same time. I guess my air pack is toast. Are these difficult to rebuild. The one on there looks brand new.
 

sermis

Active member
1,844
17
38
Location
Temple, TX
When mine did the same thing I opend the air valved on the rear and it did not release. I was thinking the air pack also. Turned out to be the master. The trash in it cloged the holes so the piston would not allow the fluid to release.
 

dirtyfingernails

New member
778
4
0
Location
Gainesville, FL
Sermis,
I think the master is okay because after bleeding the pedal is perfect--about 2 inches of depression before brake engagement. However, after charging the system with air, it pushes back again. I drove it after bleeding and it's working okay now. But, the pedal is sure near the top and TIGHT! Although it's this tight it is still currently releasing. How much pedal play is normal when the system is charged with air??
 

BEASTMASTER

Active member
899
142
43
Location
Burgaw, N.C.
mine did the same thing in the 4th of july parade , took the master cylinder apart cleaned it, :driver: and put it back together , been fine since.
 

poppop

Well-known member
2,316
39
48
Location
Brooklet, Ga
I have had this same problem with a couple farm trucks. The return hole in the master cylinder was pluged. On another truck The master cylinder was replaced and had this problem. Something was a little different and I had to adjust the pedal rod. It was holding the cup in just a little and covering the return hole.
 

m-35tom

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
3,021
222
63
Location
eldersburg maryland
right pp, check the m/c pushrod adj. if cracking the bleeder on the pack releases the brakes, the fluid is not going back to the main m/c, the one on the pedal. all the pack does is push on the second m/c which is part of the pack. with no air the fluid from the main m/c pushes the piston in the second m/c so it has un boosted brakes. with air, the main m/c pushes a air regulator on the side of the pack that puts air to the pack air cylinder and that pushes the second m/c. the problem almost certainly revolves around the main m/c.
 

JohnnyReb

Member
513
13
18
Location
North Georgia Mtns.
Are you bleeding it with someone pressing the pedal?
When you bled it and it improved then it sounded like an air in the lines problem. Before making adjustments or rebuilds, I would bleed the brakes the old fashioned way first: Get on the bleed valve and have a person press the pedal; before it goes to the floor, close the bleed valve then have the person on the brake release it....then repeat the procedure three or four times. MOST IMPORTANT is not to release the brake pedal before closing the valve. May require three people with one relaying the messages.....just a simple test before wenching.........
 

JohnnyReb

Member
513
13
18
Location
North Georgia Mtns.
I kept an old jeep on the road for a long time using this procedure.

However, you still have air getting in the lines, so this won't fix the problem...just diagnose it...
 

JohnnyReb

Member
513
13
18
Location
North Georgia Mtns.
JohnnyReb said:
Are you bleeding it with someone pressing the pedal?
When you bled it and it improved then it sounded like an air in the lines problem. Before making adjustments or rebuilds, I would bleed the brakes the old fashioned way first: Get on the bleed valve and have a person press the pedal; before it goes to the floor, close the bleed valve then have the person on the brake release it....then repeat the procedure three or four times. MOST IMPORTANT is not to release the brake pedal before closing the valve. May require three people with one relaying the messages.....just a simple test before wenching.........
Now that I re-read my post....should be wrenching......wenching is a whole different sport!!
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
34,012
1,808
113
Location
GA Mountains
Steve, knowing the problems you had with the brakes, I'd say someone got under there and cranked the pedal adjustment to get a better pedal just like they adjusted the shoes all the way out. That hole mentioned in a previous post is called a compensating port and if blocked, will do exactly what your brakes are doing. Check that and I bet you find your problem If that doesn't work start thinking about rebuilding the master cylinder. Call me if you need help.
 

Rocco

New member
377
2
0
Location
Lynchburg VA
Mine did the same thing.
I opened up both bleeders on the front
and i heard the brake shoes release
and then it was fine but i have a feeling its going to happen again soon,
so im going to check out the MC.
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
34,012
1,808
113
Location
GA Mountains
You may not be able to see the compensating port. Check to see if there is free play in the pedal. Do this from underneath. The push rod should not be resting against the piston at all. There is also supposed to be a spring holding it off, check for that as well.
 

poppop

Well-known member
2,316
39
48
Location
Brooklet, Ga
The port is in the bottom of the MC close yo the end where the pushrod is. I don't think you will be able to see it. If you rebuild the MC you can see it through the bore. Run a wire through it to be sure it is open.
 

aboonski

Member
722
8
18
Location
West Melbourne Florida
Kenny!!! I am reading all of the posts in this area because I still have to fix my brake system that has similar if not identical problems. I'll probably start with cracking open the bleed valve on the air pack first to see if it releases the brakes then I'll go from there. By the way I did talk to Matt at Green Gem and he is working out a trade-in of the turbo with me. I am going to make a trip up to see him sometime next week. We were up in Jacksonville on Tuesdy to see my 22 year old son off for the AF but spent the whole day at the MEPS center waiting for the processing mess to finish up. My finace wanted to leave for home once the boy left for the airport so my plans to go up to visit Matt had to be postponed. Women run the show you know!
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks