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If you can't find any newer mounts, you could cap as much of one side of yours as you can with 1/8 or 3/16 plate, would likely help eliminate a lot of flex...
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Thats what i have. The top bend is what broke.![]()
These are what I have seen on almost every truck we have had, on all positions
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Het Simp,
I just realized your U-bolt plates are completely different than my A2, kind of hard to tell by the pictures but it looks like yours may allow more flex
. I wonder if was a revision due to your problem?![]()
I'd go this route, keeps both mounts closer to the cans, also looks like they wont interfere with each other at all..... OR I will add the original mounting tabs to the outside at their original angle which is inside the mounting area of the Ubolt on the A2. I took my style bracket today down to Memphis equipment and looked at an A2 and I believe it will work. Never can be too overkill I don't believe.
Snapped both on the front tandem axle and the Rear pass side one.I think you have something going on with the brake system itself. The mounting of the clamps/braces has nothing to do with keeping the brake can shafts from shearing off. They are designed to support the brake can/shaft. Why did it snap one on the front axle? I think something is going on inside the drums.
It is an intermittent vibration. I replaced all of the Ujoints on the truck except for the jackshaft ones a few months ago. No issues out of any of them. I am going to either realign the transmission this week along with the rear bogie.Your transfer case being misaligned is creating a driveline vibration. It may not feel like much but I've seen the same thing break mounting tabs off for brake valves and crack leaf springs. Another common source for vibration is the driveshaft between the rears. It's always in a bind and hard to check for play.
The front brakes are activated by secondary air only and I do not have the same braking power as the rear spring brakes. The rear service brakes have brackets and are activated off the air coming across from the front spring cans. I also assume they are hooked to the same brackets due to the rear vibration and impacts it takes.Your current support loops look exactly like what CSM Davis posted and what I looked at on my truck earlier. The A2's certainly have a different looking bracket and it may be stronger. I have never seen a sheared wedge brake apply tube until now so I'm confused. The fronts have no bracket as there is no feasible way of adding a moving bracket for steering and they are holding in place. The threads on the tube cover roughly a 1/2 inch of backing plate. I have no idea why those are shearing off.
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These are what I have seen on almost every truck we have had, on all positions
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It may. I thought about it cause it was after i came down the mountain loaded that i noticed I had the trouble stopping. Granted that was a few hours later without hitting the brakesAnother possibility! Do you think your rear brake relay valve is going bad and causing compounding brake forces? The spring brake and foot brake should not apply at the same time.
Do you need this bracket? I think that bracket came with the T-case I picked up at the rally. You can have it if you want.