Bringing back to life a 2009 HMMWV M1165A1 from GovPlanet - total newbie, please help...

[Milcommoguy]

Thanks! It's not exactly shimming, which I am familiar with from other cars where the steering moves side to side when it's not held. It is more like a shacking that goes to the whole body, the doors are shacking, the windows, but those are somewhat loose also, and some of the shaking comes thru the steering column but it's not as strong as it looks on the amount of the hood hook movement.

You are 100% right about the hood, it was totally lose when I first got it, the front bolts were not tighten, but I tighten everything sometime ago and I checked it again, it is still very tight. There seems to be two conditions, which may point to multiple combined issues, which may mask eachother in terms of cause vs effect...when the hood moves vs the hooks, it appears to move with the whole truck body, not by itself.
The other case is even at slower speeds when I go over rougher terrain, sometimes it looks like the hooks are moving against the body (I know it's hard to tell, and I use the road as a static point of reference).
Another puzzling thing is that the driver side hook seems to have more movement than the passenger side, but that could also be because I can look straight at its cross section, where the other one is at an angle.

I will take some video, that would explain things better.

If it wasn't bumping, banging, shaking, shimming, rattling while rolling... It would be just another car. Might have something to do with the turn signal label missing, LOL

Not sure what your saying. Get a hold on the hood by the window washer tank (where one strains to lift it up) and while it's down does in move left to right... right. crack in the fiberglass, crack in the frame, loose hardware... got to love the chase to find it. Good Luck, could this be normal? Going for a ride to see myself.

"E" ticket ride in the HumV, CAMO

 

[T9000]

I have only done one wheel in the air at a time. I just put mine in OD like normal driving. The tires on the ground will not move. Leave the transfer case in H. If you do transfer case in HL or LL, the truck will move. You can just park it with a tree against the bumper if you feel uneasy about it. You can also have someone in the driver seat too.

Ok, it is clear, I just wanted to make sure I understood everything you said, the way you meant it,
This method takes me back to a thought I had earlier when you said to rotate the rim 90 or 180 degrees.
I do have a problematic tire that's off the car because was vibrating worse than others starting around 55mph (had to move the tires several ways around to determine which one it was) and was thinking to deflate it, loosen completely the 24 nuts so there no tension on the bead, mark the rim and tire so I can measure the movement and use the truck to rotate the rim without extracting the two pieces from the tire, as I would have it to take it to a tire shop for that. I am thinking to build a U shaped steel jig with a manual winch/ ratchet to be able to extract the rims from inside the tire myself if that would not work, something like this concept drawing (foldable and easy to store away as it will not be used too often):




I was looking to possibly modify a weight press bench rated for 600-700lbs.
Have you extracted the rims before by yourself?

 

[Action]

Ok, it is clear, I just wanted to make sure I understood everything you said, the way you meant it,
This method takes me back to a thought I had earlier when you said to rotate the rim 90 or 180 degrees.
I do have a problematic tire that's off the car because was vibrating worse than others starting around 55mph (had to move the tires several ways around to determine which one it was) and was thinking to deflate it, loosen completely the 24 nuts so there no tension on the bead, mark the rim and tire so I can measure the movement and use the truck to rotate the rim without extracting the two pieces from the tire, as I would have it to take it to a tire shop for that. I am thinking to build a U shaped steel jig with a manual winch/ ratchet to be able to extract the rims from inside the tire myself if that would not work, something like this concept drawing (foldable and easy to store away as it will not be used too often):


View attachment 859249

I was looking to possibly modify a weight press bench rated for 600-700lbs.
Have you extracted the rims before by yourself?

Just pop the front of the rim and turn it. Put it back on. I use a small pry bar and work around tmthe bead a couple times until it breaks free. Prybar works on both sides. But i previously stated to just rotate the outer rim piece. Leave the rest alone. I do runflats by myself, too.

 

[Action]

Just pop the front of the rim and turn it. Put it back on. I use a small pry bar and work around tmthe bead a couple times until it breaks free. Prybar works on both sides. But i previously stated to just rotate the outer rim piece. Leave the rest alone. I do runflats by myself, too.

[/QUOTE]

 

[T9000]

View attachment 859251
[/QUOTE]

OK. Yes, I can get the outer rim piece out. but the inner one even the tire shop had a hard time with it, maybe because the older tires were set in for so many years.

How does turning just the outer piece might help? That doesn't change the tire position in relationship with the inner rim, where let's say the rim high spot is closer to the tire high spot and also doesn't change the fun flat position to the inner rim or tire.
It does change the position of the whole tire to the wheel hub, but so is rotating the tire 90 degrees would have the same effect?

Of course I prefer doing just the outer rim and I am just trying the understand how this would work, not to make anything too complicated lol

 

[T9000]

If it wasn't bumping, banging, shaking, shimming, rattling while rolling... It would be just another car. Might have something to do with the turn signal label missing, LOL

Not sure what your saying. Get a hold on the hood by the window washer tank (where one strains to lift it up) and while it's down does in move left to right... right. crack in the fiberglass, crack in the frame, loose hardware... got to love the chase to find it. Good Luck, could this be normal? Going for a ride to see myself.

"E" ticket ride in the HumV, CAMO

Yes, I am still hunting for anything else lose, but the hood is not, it's not cracked either, its solid on, very tight! Actually I am thinking to take out the hood and drive without it, maybe I can see better what's going in, I will add some pictures of the radiator welding that is broken, which could also be related to this shaking, just like the front diff input seal light leak could be.
I am curious when you drive yours if you see any hook movement when go over a stretch of broken road or rougher terrain that makes the whole truck shake?

 

[Action]

Each rim half can be a little out of balance. Turning just the outer fixed mine. The older rims used centering washers to get the halves lined up.

 

[T9000]

Each rim half can be a little out of balance. Turning just the outer fixed mine. The older rims used centering washers to get the halves lined up.

Understood. And what do you use for the runflats? The ratchet belt which collapses them in the middle like in the TM or something different?

 

[Action]

Understood. And what do you use for the runflats? The ratchet belt which collapses them in the middle like in the TM or something different?

Again. I only move the outer rim half. In relation to the inner half.
When replacing tires, i use the runflat tool. It is under $40 delivered on epay.

 

[Action]

Stay under 70 moh and your truck wont shake.

 

[T9000]

Stay under 70 moh and your truck wont shake.

Lol, it sounds like the dealer…when I mention rattles, they say don’t worry, just turn up the stereo

 

[T9000]

Action, is the correct seal installer tool for the front differential input seal model J-29162?

Thanks!

 

[Action]

Action, is the correct seal installer tool for the front differential input seal model J-29162?

Thanks!

J-29162, Installer, Yoke Seal
5737530
4910-01-179-5530

 

[T9000]

J-29162, Installer, Yoke Seal
5737530
4910-01-179-5530

Excellent! I ordered one.

J-29162, Installer, Yoke Seal
5737530
4910-01-179-5530

Excellent! I ordered it. I did more research about removing the drive shaft and the following things came up (I knew there has to be more than just unscrew it and put it back):

1. Mark where the pinion nut is before removing it and use the same position when reinstalling it
2. Count the number of turns when removing the nut and use the same when reinstalling to preserve the same preloading
3. Mark the drive shaft vs. yoke to install it the same exact way when re-installing it to preserve the same balancing - is there a drive shaft balancing? I am also trying to understand why did the front diff input seal start leaking after only a few thousand miles (the rear one is totally dry, no issues) and could be related to some vibration, but I really don't know, so eliminating any potential causes is what I am trying to do.

 

[Action]

Sweat to the oldies. Enjoy !

 

[T9000]

Sweat to the oldies. Enjoy !

Any words of wisdom about balancing the front drive shaft? Is that something that should be done?

Also, I was looking around under the truck for anything loose and found this cable with a 4 pin connector in the area by the accelerator pedal.
Two of the cables are marked 762A and 762B (the other two are covered and couldn't see the numbers).
I searched the manuals for these wire labels and only 762A comes up in the 4L80E troubleshooting manual related to the Neutral.

Should this cable be connected somewhere or is it just a troubleshooting/ test cable (like the fuel pressure sensor?)