• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Building a Long bed bobber

D

DB556

Active member
200
129
43
Location
Ambridge, Pa
Well its like the title says, I'm going to convert my M35a2c to a long bed bobber if that is the correct term or is it just a 4x4 conversion?
I've seen a few pictures of trucks with the full size bed and the rear most axle staying about the same postion, cant seem to find any build threads.
I've saw pictures in the bobbed deuce thread and got hooked. So anybody build a long bed?

Plan is some used ~50% thread goodyear MVT 395's from eastern surplus(there cheap) on Hutchinson aluminum MRAP wheels,
I'm probably going make my adapters on the cnc mill out of some half inch Grade 50 since there seems to be problems with the latest batches of them.
I just need to find a blueprint for the adapters with the cutout for the CTIS module. Well unless I remove the CTIS unit and run a schrader valve.

I'm debating about the rear drive. Run a extra long shaft? New shafts and carrier bearing?
I'm thinking I can use the stock read drive shafts, If move the rear axle forward 12" and weld in a cross member with a carrier bearing use some splined shaft and the flanges from the extra axle.

If this is any ones truck let me know.
maxresdefault.jpg
 
D

DB556

Active member
200
129
43
Location
Ambridge, Pa
tobyS said:
Bobbing is cutting and shortening the frame. I call mine a 4x4 conversion. I'm making my 4x4 with the axle placed for the wheel well of the 105 bed, off the rear of the frame. The frame is uncut. Beds rear is located 3" past the rear of the frame. I reinforced my frame with plate formed to an L x 10' and used the M105 spring + bag.

Here is my goal....air lockers, 4.90 gears, lockouts on the front, 395 or 365/85.

You have no choice on driveshaft, it's too long for a single piece by about a foot. Must use a carrier. Also, consider going to a different driveshaft than oem, go to the 1420 ujoint and 3.5" diameter. If you commit to the 3" that is oem, you are limited on parts.



Plan to put bigger piston wheel cylinders on your A2 or ?. Go from 1 3/8" to 1 1/2" piston dia both front and rear...they will change out. Bigger tires need more stop force and volume is closer to what the MC puts out (for 6x6).
Click to expand...
I pretty much knew I was going to need a carrier, I thought about a new larger drive shaft I have my local driveshaft shop getting me a quote, when they cant give me a number over the phone I know its going to be $$$

I was going to go to front and rear disc brakes, I already started stockpiling parts got the F700 rotors and F550 parts, my buddy had a hydromax booster from a topkick I can have, I need to get a power steering pump and I have a line on a HF45 box while I'm at it. But I wasn't going to start the brake work until I got some of the other work done.
 
B

Bill in pa

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
134
40
18
Location
homer city pa
NO.....
The shaft from the TC to the carrier is solid.
The slip is from the carrier to the axle.
Thats where the travel will take place as the axle goes up and down.
 
tobyS

tobyS

Well-known member
4,832
833
113
Location
IN
Bill in pa said:
NO.....
The shaft from the TC to the carrier is solid.
The slip is from the carrier to the axle.
Thats where the travel will take place as the axle goes up and down.
Click to expand...
removed for your protection...can't let 9.11 truth leak into SS
 
Last edited:
D

DB556

Active member
200
129
43
Location
Ambridge, Pa
Well I just ordered a set of five M35a3 wheels with some 50% 14.5r20's on them for $295 each shipped it was more than I wanted to spend but I dont have time to make the adapter plates for the Mrap wheels.
Now to figure out the drive shaft and start cutting some rivets to the air bags and front springs in. For a second I thought about just going to a normal bobber I measured the bed for a cut and then went....Nope.
(mainly I need to fit my skidsteer in the bed to take to my camp and a short bed is a foot to short)
 
D

DB556

Active member
200
129
43
Location
Ambridge, Pa
Well I unloaded the tires a little bit ago, their dry rotted but I knew that when I got them was mainly buying the rims, they hold air so I can use them to move it around but I'll have to pick up some MVT's
Now its time to figure out the carrier bearing. I found this picture of a carrier somebody made with a pinion shaft and flanges from the axle third member with some pillow block bearings.
I think I might need some rubber mounts for the bearings, I have a section of 8" channel I'll mount across the frame. Hopeful I can use the intermediate shaft stock or just get it lengthened a couple of inches.

Now to find a scrap axle to take the parts out of.

IMG-20120116-00102_zps599d236f.jpg20190802_185957.jpg
 
D

DB556

Active member
200
129
43
Location
Ambridge, Pa
Well, from the picture I see they just pulled the pinion shaft out of another axle and in there case turned down the bearing surfaces to 1.5" to fit a set of pillow block bearings.
And then bolted on the stock pinion yoke flanges, So this new bearing unit is the same size as the intermediate axle so, If I rig up one of these bearing shaft units.

I'll place the c channel cross member under the frame in the approximate location of the intermediate axle allowing me to use the stock rear drive shaft from the TC to this frist axle then use the second shaft from the intermediate unit to the rear axle which will be in the stock location. Now depending on how I make the c channel crossmember and how close I get it to the location of the removed axle, I might have to shorten the front and lengthen the second drive shafts but balancing the shafts is a cheaper than then making me a new one.
If the pinion shaft
 
tobyS

tobyS

Well-known member
4,832
833
113
Location
IN
For anyone that wants to build a long or short bed 4x4, there is a candidate M35A3 in VA listed in the classified here from a deceased member of SS. I read it has a rebuilt tranny goes with it....a darn good buy. Assist steering and 50/50 split brakes....perfect for a 4x4. Buy the M105 to go with it and you have the springs and rear frame mounts + the bed. Wow what a deal.... I wish I were closer to VA. Contact member Carman.
 
Last edited:
rustystud

rustystud

Well-known member
9,254
2,941
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
tobyS said:
I saw it with a slip on both and with a slip on only the end in motion. I went ahead and put it on both and am using a solid pillow block, not rubber.
Click to expand...
You might want to reconsider using a solid mount. The transfer case does move since the frame can flex. I've never seen a solid mount on any large truck. They always use a flex mount carrier. If installed correctly they will last the life of the truck.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
110,655members
165,167threads
2,324,053posts
1,419online users
Top