• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Busted block

tco3129

New member
219
4
0
Location
Flat Top W.V.
Dodging snow and rain, I finally got my LDT torn down. I knew I had lost a cylinder liner and piston, a relatively easy fix, but was concerned when draining the oil when I got 4 gallons of antifreeze first out of the oil pan. I had checked the heads first with the blacklite and spray and found no problems. Had to pull the oil pump to get to the rod bolts on #1 piston. Once the piston was out I wiped the cylinder with a rag and WELL CRAP. Block busted right behind the front freeze plug. This is the second cylinder liner to go to the oil pan. #4 went December 2013. #1 went December 2014. Now my question. Is loosing liners and pistons common? I run Rotella oil and fresh antifreeze. No overheating problems. Next can the block from an LDS be used for an LDT?
 

m16ty

Moderator
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
9,580
218
63
Location
Dickson,TN
I don't know how common it is but I have seen a couple of engines with disintegrated liners.
 

Jeepsinker

Well-known member
5,399
457
83
Location
Dry Creek, Louisiana
LDT and LDS blocks are exactly the same. The entire engine is exactly the same except for the injector pump and pistons. If it were me I would take the parts needed for the LDS off of your busted motor, complete the LDS, and swap it in.
 

tco3129

New member
219
4
0
Location
Flat Top W.V.
Is it better to pull the engine out with or without the tranny attached? What kind of weight am I looking at? In normal circumstances I would be using 3 locust poles chained together at the top and a chain block and tackle.
 

Jeepsinker

Well-known member
5,399
457
83
Location
Dry Creek, Louisiana
The engine alone is the better part of 2,000 pounds. Something like 17-1800. Then the trans is a couple hundred pounds too. It is easier to pull the engine and transmission together. Remove the center floor pan, remove the transmission top cover, then pull the engine/ trans.

I wouldn't use the locust poles. You need heavy duty lifting gear to do this swap safely. How much do you value your life and limbs?
 

acesneights1

Member
1,449
23
20
Location
CT
I would not pull them as one. I did it that way and it is a tight squeeze not to mention the weight.Looking back, I would have dropped the tranny first. You will not be able to pull it with your average cherry picker. You would need a heavy diesel specific one. I pulled mine with a New Holland L775 which has some pretty good nuts and I nearly flipped the machine not to mention put alot of stress on old hydrualics. I would not attempt it again. Hire a local guy with a decent sized backhoe or small excavator or use an A frame rated for atleast 4,000lbs IMHO.
It is no joke, it is heavy and very tight quarters. Pull the front bumper and front cross members. Trust me, I didn't and wished I had. You will need atleast one guy on the ground to guide the motor past the steering box. Two guys, even better. Put the motor back in without the trans and put trans up after is how I did it.
That is my advice after recently doing mine.
 

JasonS

Well-known member
1,656
167
63
Location
Eastern SD
I would not pull them as one. I did it that way and it is a tight squeeze not to mention the weight.Looking back, I would have dropped the tranny first. You will not be able to pull it with your average cherry picker. You would need a heavy diesel specific one. I pulled mine with a New Holland L775 which has some pretty good nuts and I nearly flipped the machine not to mention put alot of stress on old hydrualics. I would not attempt it again. Hire a local guy with a decent sized backhoe or small excavator or use an A frame rated for atleast 4,000lbs IMHO.
It is no joke, it is heavy and very tight quarters. Pull the front bumper and front cross members. Trust me, I didn't and wished I had. You will need atleast one guy on the ground to guide the motor past the steering box. Two guys, even better. Put the motor back in without the trans and put trans up after is how I did it.
That is my advice after recently doing mine.
Is it possible to pull the engine without first removing the front crossmmeber? I assumed that it had to go but am curious if it is possible.
 

Jeepsinker

Well-known member
5,399
457
83
Location
Dry Creek, Louisiana
If you know anyone with a 5 ton wrecker it would make quick work of it. Other than that you are stuck with using ( as mentioned) a tractor or building some kind of "A" frame from heavy steel pipe and plate or channel iron and buying a good chainfall.
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,786
757
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
Yes, you can pull it w/o pulling the front cross-member. Some are riveted in place and you can not remove them. It is much easier if you pull the oil pan for clearance, but not needed.
 

JasonS

Well-known member
1,656
167
63
Location
Eastern SD
Excluding the gasser front crossmmember which has to be cut out to install the multi, aren't both of the multi crossmembers removable?
 

acesneights1

Member
1,449
23
20
Location
CT
If you can remove it, I would strongly recommend doing it. I would not put the motor in without the oil pan on. I'd rather dent an oil pan than crack a 400$ oil pump.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks