Cable size for Mep002a

[RJM27]

What are the suggestions for Cable size and configuration to come off the lugs on my Mep002a. My store bought Gen set has 220volt twist lock that goes to outlet, then through transfer switch (sorta home made but does work well). Any experince would be appreciated.
Thanks Bob.

 

[jbk]

your gen. is 26 amps. at 240. most use 10/4 which is good for 30 amp. 240 up to 100 ft. i use 8/4 good for 35 amp. it still fits in the L14 twist lock conn. and is good for 35 amps. at 100 ft.

 

[RJM27]

Ok here are pics of what I'm using w/ package store genset, it is an L14 twist i put on it and same with outlet installed. Suggestions on hooking to Mep002a; If i want to go 100' what type cable is the best and were to get it. Assume I should wire dirrect to lugs, will the 30amp outlet I have be sufficient. I can change the whole set up. My existing cord is only 25'
Thanks Bob.

 

[jbk]

you can use your existing wire/conn. if you want, i cant tell what gauge it is. i use 8/4 4/c 600 volt water resistant wire its a little heaver than the 10/4 which is all you need. the conn. method is on the data plate on the conn. box. the wire can be had almost anywhere, home depot, ebay or elec. supply. 30 amp. is all it will do. if that is a backfeed method you might consider a transfer switch.

 

[steelandcanvas]

A transfer switch is not just a consideration, it's required by law. You certainly don't want to start your genset and fry some poor unsuspecting lineman trying to restore your outage. Transfer switches are expensive, however there is an alternative. Interlock switches do the same thing, and are fairly inexpensive when compared to transfer switches. They are designed, when installed correctly, to prohibit you from closing the main breaker and the genset breaker at the same time. Here are a couple of distributors:
Generator InterLock Kit - How do I connect my Generator Breaker to my Generator
Panel Interlock Kits
Please do not hook up your genset without something to disconnect you from the utility.

 

[RJM27]

Hey gus I have the interlock switch installed on my sub pannel box (200amp), I agree that is the bare minimum, hopefully someday I can get the transfer switch, keep waiting for a sale. What do you guys think about diirect connect to the Lugs w/sjt cord, or go with a disconnect and outlet?

 

[steelandcanvas]

What do you guys think about diirect connect to the Lugs w/sjt cord, or go with a disconnect and outlet?

If you don't plan on using the genset for anything but your house back-up, just attach to the lugs. I came off my lugs with a junction box and placed a 125/250V 50A Female Twist-lock Receptacle on it. With a male/female cord set-up, I can plug from the genset directly into my shop for back-up power, or to a scatter (spider) box with multiple 240V and 120V receptacles on it. With a male/pig-tail cord, I can attach to any panelboard that needs temporary power. This design makes my genset very versatile. BTW, I went with the 50A rating as I have an MEP-003A.

 

[jbk]

i have my 002 trailer mounted with a 25ft. piece of wire attached at the lugs with a female L14 on the other. i use a 65ft male/female piece of wire to go to the house .

 

[derf]

Your yellow wire is DANGEROUS. You should have a male connector on the gen end and a FEMALE connector on the other end and a corresponding male receptacle for the FEMALE connector.
What you have now is a potential shock hazard if plugged into a running generator and not plugged into the box on the other end,
i.e. you have 220V exposed.

 

[steelandcanvas]

Your yellow wire is DANGEROUS. You should have a male connector on the gen end and a FEMALE connector on the other end and a corresponding male receptacle for the FEMALE connector.
What you have now is a potential shock hazard if plugged into a running generator and not plugged into the box on the other end,
i.e. you have 220V exposed.

WOW! Good catch, I hadn't noticed that. That needs to be corrected ASAP!

 

[jbk]

i didnt even notice, but if you have an interlock on your sub panel you should have a gen. inlet box which will have male prongs and a female L14 from your gen.

 

[steelandcanvas]

I'll try and post some photos tonight of my set-up, hopefully that will clear everything up for Bob. (RJM27) He's got a potentially dangerous situation (male/male on a cord) that needs to be corrected.

 

[RJM27]

The set up was put together to get me going during a extended power outage, I understand the risk of shock and would not fire the generator until the plug was installed. The lock out is inside the disconect pannel, mechanical device between the 30amp breaker and 200 amp service breaker, gen power cannot get into pannel unless main is off. I'm in the process of changing this set up, that's why I'm looking for input. We have had several power outages(squirles & racoon's, so they say, even heavy winds seem's to knock us out), over the last couple of years that have lasted for long periods, the gas powered gen set is underrated and screams. I like the thought of a disconect on the genset trailer, which would give more flexability. Hey guys I really appreciate all the comments and help, you guys got it together and it is more help then you realize.
Thanks Bob.

 

[derf]

If I were you I would either spend the extra bucks to make that yellow wire more properly safe or hard wire the box end and leave the gen end like it is.
Be careful going to automatic transfer switches. It sounds like you have a good switch/disconnect in place. Oftentimes if you go auto you have codes and bureaucracies to deal with.

Codes and inspections/inspectors aren't bad things, but sometimes they just lack common sense.

 

[panic_button]

Codes and inspections/inspectors aren't bad things, but sometimes they just lack common sense.

I can attest to that...

 

[RJM27]

I'm without a doubt changing the cord, that was my original question on cord size and length, would like to go 100'. I got a PM on Ronk transfer switches, would like to keep everything outside, that is why I have a 200amp exterior entrance box. Next questions will be proper way to hook to the lugs and if I'm going through a sub panel. Thanks again Bob.

 

[jbk]

connect lugs L1 and L3 for your hots and lo for your neutral in the box. be sure the reconnect switch is set on 120/240 single phase. remove the neutral ground bond at the generator after you connect to the house.

 

[reset2]

Referring to post #8. The pictures in the post.

All right I have to ask. Just getting into this military stuff more and more. In your picture of the MEP on the little HF trailer can I ask what paint you used to paint the genset? I will be going to the Expo in May at Ripkin field and I should be able to find a paint seller there just wanted to know what to ask for (year or vehicle used on originally). Thanks.
Second question the switch box on the third picture (on the fender). What is this box? Did it come on the trailer originally or did you find it somewhere? Thanks again
Reset2

 

[Chrispyny]

Referring to post #8. The pictures in the post.

All right I have to ask. Just getting into this military stuff more and more. In your picture of the MEP on the little HF trailer can I ask what paint you used to paint the genset? I will be going to the Expo in May at Ripkin field and I should be able to find a paint seller there just wanted to know what to ask for (year or vehicle used on originally). Thanks.
Second question the switch box on the third picture (on the fender). What is this box? Did it come on the trailer originally or did you find it somewhere? Thanks again
Reset2

Ditto on both paint and switch box please...

 

[jbk]

the paint is ppg automotive. the fella at the paint store shot the color from inside a piece of sheet metal from a 002 kinda a dark forest green color. kinda a simi flat cures very fast. ive used this paint on all my gens. more examples of this paint can be seen in my album under my profile here, $40.00 a gal.. the decals were made at a local sign co. the switch box on the 1.5 trailer is original to it allowing you to switch from one set to the other.