Can’t get this to start…FIXED!!!

[DaneGer21]

I have replaced a non working in tank pump with an inline recommended from this site. I now get 9psi when I turn on the main power.

I have changed all fuel filter.

I have bypassed the fdc

I have removed/bypassed the flame heater

I have pulled the HH because the button fell off. Reinstall with new orings(and shut off oring).

I have bled the system and have fuel to the HH, and also have fuel returning to the tank via the return line.

BUT, I can NOT get any fuel to come out of the HH’s injector lines while cranking.

What else can I check? It’s driving me nuts! ***Side Note: this truck was purchased as non running so I’m shooting in the dark***

 

[patracy]

Have you pulled the cover off the side of the pump below the HH and make sure the lever there isn't stuck? (It's the pull lever for fuel cut off)

 

[DaneGer21]

Have you pulled the cover off the side of the pump below the HH and make sure the lever there isn't stuck? (It's the pull lever for fuel cut off)

Yep did that when I replaced the oring behind the lever

 

[SCSG-G4]

If you are not getting ANY fuel coming out of the top of the HH, then the button fell off again. If you are not getting fuel to the correct cylinder to fire, then you have a timing problem.

 

[DaneGer21]

If you are not getting ANY fuel coming out of the top of the HH, then the button fell off again. If you are not getting fuel to the correct cylinder to fire, then you have a timing problem.

I used a dab of grease to hold the button on and then after carefully reinstalling the HH and all the lines, I purposely left one line COMPLETELY disconnected from the HH. I filled that unused injector line hole(on top of HH) with PB blaster, cranked the engine, nothing came out or went back in. Maybe the HH is plugged up? I am getting ZERO fuel from the HH injector line ports.

After dinner I’ll remove the HH again to inspect the button.

 

[SCSG-G4]

I'm going to let the HH gurus take over this conversation, but From what I've read, putting grease where fuel is supposed to flow is not good.

 

[DaneGer21]

I'm going to let the HH gurus take over this conversation, but From what I've read, putting grease where fuel is supposed to flow is not good.

It was the absolute smallest dab of grease, but I appreciate your response, I’ll pull the HH again later. Problem is, I was getting ZERO fuel before and after applying the bit of grease

 

[WillWagner]

Grease shouldn't matter. Did it run before everything you did?

 

[DaneGer21]

Grease shouldn't matter. Did it run before everything you did?

Yes and no. When I purchased it, it had been sitting for 1.5yrs, but according to previous owner it did when he parked it. In my 1mth or so ownership, no it hasn’t, because the tank was nasty and needed work. Then I found the in tank pump was bad, so I dealt with that. Cleaned all the filter housings and heads, replaced filters, added fuel gauges on both the low and high side. While I waited on parts I bypassed the fdc and flame heater. Finally got everything wrapped up and here I am.

 

[WillWagner]

Can you take a video of what it sounds like when cranking? Is there any type of smoke coming out the tailpipe?

 

[DaneGer21]

Can you take a video of what it sounds like when cranking? Is there any type of smoke coming out the tailpipe?

I will tomorrow. But for now, batteries are good and up to charge as I’ve been float charging them in anticipation. Seems to spin ok without any real struggle or abnormalities, that I can tell, but any recommendations I’ll give a shot.

Zero smoke of any sort from the exhaust stack.

When the wife and I returned from dinner I removed the HH again. I actually disassembled the head/plunger this time, the first time I removed the HH was to replace the orings only. I was able to get it cleaned up pretty well and was able to get blaster and carb clean to flow through the internal passages. This makes me hopeful as before nothing would drain through. I sprayed it down with blaster one last time before I called it a night, hopefully overnight it’ll break down any deposits that are left. I will reassemble in the morning and report back.

I appreciate everyone’s advice so far!

 

[Floridianson]

You used grease but you also used the clip that was in good shape right? Lets check the delivery valve before you remove the head. That is the 12 point cap on the side if the head. Remove cap and do not loose the spring behind it then remove the valve and clean valve and seat.

Post #16 Not starting because no fuel? | SteelSoldiers

 

[DaneGer21]

You used grease but you also used the clip that was in good shape right? Lets check the delivery valve before you remove the head. That is the 12 point cap on the side if the head. Remove cap and do not loose the spring behind it then remove the valve and clean valve and seat.

Post #16 Not starting because no fuel? | SteelSoldiers

Holy crap! I dont remember seeing the 3 prong clip now that I think about it as it was my first time in there!

I walked out to the garage just now and guess what, it was still laying down in the hole and unharmed.

When the baby lays down for her first nap I’ll see what the wife will let me accomplish.

I can’t believe I didn’t see that clip or remember when I read about it.

Thanks everyone for helping me! I guess this ones on me haha

…I’ll still remove that 12point cap and cleans things up…thanks!

 

[HDN]

I've seen a few of these posts addressing multifuel fuel delivery issues. I'm trying to get familiar out of curiosity since my deuce has a Cat motor in it, but do the multifuel diesels usually have more-complicated fuel systems than regular diesels? Or is it just a quirk of this motor design?

When the baby lays down for her first nap I’ll see what the wife will let me accomplish.

Yeah, I totally sympathize with this

 

[Floridianson]

Deuce multi sticking fuel control unit assembly, Sticking plunger, Broken plunger guide, Dropping the dang timing button to list a few.

 

[FloridaAKM]

You used grease but you also used the clip that was in good shape right? Lets check the delivery valve before you remove the head. That is the 12 point cap on the side if the head. Remove cap and do not loose the spring behind it then remove the valve and clean valve and seat.

Post #16 Not starting because no fuel? | SteelSoldiers

The delivery valve is what kicked my butt on the last non runner Deuce I bought. Went thru everything, but it still wouldn't start. Removed the delivery valve, spring & cleaned the seat & off she went.

 

[DaneGer21]

Took out that delivery valve and it was gummed up and frozen. I soaked it for about 15mins and then I was able to get it to spin but still wouldnt move vertically. Another 15mins and I was able to fish it out. Cleaned it all up and she slid in nicely. I have everything buttoned back up. Just waiting for the wife to come hit the bottom while I stand guard at the engine.

I’ll report back shortly; hopefully haha.

 

[FloridaAKM]

Wild horses couldn't have stopped me from giving her a spin to she if she would catch & run. The only thing wrong with that is the engine running away & you don't have someone there with a wooden plate to cover the intake to smother her IN CASE that happens.

Mine ran starting then & still starts & runs!

 

[DaneGer21]

Well no luck again, crank but no start. This time I am getting small puffs of white out of the stack.

Quick question,will the fuel pressure after the booster pump raise while cranking or only when running? I noticed my gauge on my secondary filters stays around 9psi while cranking., which is the same as my feed pump puts out.

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[cattlerepairman]

Ok, so she is getting fuel now. Pressure at secondary filters should be 60-70 psi once running.
With fuel, air and compression there is not much reason why she should not fire. Injection timing could be off, of course, but you said she ran before.

At this point I'd be inclined to let her sniff a bit of huffing gas while soldier B is cranking (yes, I know...don't overdo it..) to get her to fire; there is a chance she'll simply stay running after that.

I'm thinking no need to even crack the injector lines; the white smoke is proof of at least a couple of injectors popping.

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