Central FL M1031 project

[nyoffroad]

I'd use paint stripper, apply to one panel and then cover with plastic. While thats sitting place scrap sheets of cardboard under it to catch drips and spray/brush a second panel and cover then go back to the first and scrap the gunk off using a plastic body filler spreader. Keep one panel 'soaking while scraping another, after scraping use a red 3M scotbrite pad and paint thinner to clean the residue off. To keep the stripper from getting in jambs tape over the jambs with masking tape and then sand that area down. THIS WILL CLEAN ALL THE PAINT AND PRIMER OFF! RUST WILL START IN QUICKLY PLAN ON SOME KIND OF PRIMER AND USE IT THAT DAY

 

[Keith_J]

If it's urethane, as in polyurethane, it should come off with some paint thinner or other chemicals of the like. Spray some thinner on there and then wipe it with a shop cloth and see if it comes right off. Usually that stuff will cling and gum up sand paper and stuff.

Depends. Xylene might touch it. Urethane is a thermoset and highly resistant to even glycol base brake fluid.

 

[ToddJK]

Depends. Xylene might touch it. Urethane is a thermoset and highly resistant to even glycol base brake fluid.

I had to use the Google machine and apparently I got polyurethane mixed up with laquer.
From what I read, sanding and multi purpose stripper is what's recommended. I have used JASCO before to remove those black epoxy coatings off of some of my knives and it's nasty stuff, it made it easy getting it off, but it's a caustic so it'll burn bare skin.

 

[deank]

Hello all,

Today I tried paint remover. Mixed results… It did soften the red paint. Still a real pain to scrape it off.
Still mostly impressed with the gator sanding wheel on the sidegrinder.

 

[ToddJK]

Hello all,

Today I tried paint remover. Mixed results… It did soften the red paint. Still a real pain to scrape it off.
Still mostly impressed with the gator sanding wheel on the sidegrinder.
View attachment 869223

At least it was worth a shot.

 

[deank]

I fully agree. It was worth trying. I do know that it will work well with small parts.

 

[cucvrus]

Hey, I see you are going wild on that mopped up paint job. That must be a labor of love. If it becomes work, I will stop. I have used plastic razor blades and an electric heat gun. But like I said I set a goal to do 1 panel each day. That paint was not properly applied and from the looks of it I would say it was painted with the CARC paint in green and then painted with CARC paint in tan before someone decided to mop on the RED. It can be done but it will take a while. They do make chemical strippers but not as potent as they used to be. Also, if you can remove the doors that would help get the chemical to work on a horizontal surface. Vertically the chemical slides to the bottom. I know I make it sound easy. But I do things the hard way most times and get great results. I lost my camera in the Susquehanna River Conowingo Maryland on Friday so I will be without one till I get a replacement. I have a few cameras I just need to find one. Take Care and Good Luck. Enjoy the Memorial Day weekend.

 

[deank]

I am going to do what I can when I can. I may enlist the help of the local votech.

 

[deank]

Today’s update. The new fuel tank has been installed, with freshy painted brackets and mounting straps. I was never able to find a fuel filler neck hose. I have replaced the fuel filler vent hose. I have also changd the fuel lines from the tank to the hard lines and the ones under the cab making the run to the engine bay. Next upo, all the fuel lines under the hood and the filter

 

[cucvrus]

Since you will probably never be filling the vehicle from a tanker truck I would opt to just install a standard civilian filler neck and hose. Use a hole saw and cut the unleaded restrictor out of the filler neck and call it a day. Unless you are lucky enough to find a diesel. CUCV parts are getting more expensive and very hard to find. I am hoarding and inventorying everything I have for my retirement sale. Good Luck.

 

[Keith_J]

As this is a 1031 SECM, the filler neck options are wide. No need for a locking fuel cap with the filler neck behind door #1 ( the generator control panel door).

I get lots of looks whenever filling as the control panel is quite busy with 5 circuit breakers and switches, two gauges/meters plus the circuit diagrams. Its my Rick Sanchez space car.

 

[deank]

Greetings all!

Some new work completed, more work found...

The new fuel tank, sending unit, fuel lines and lift pump are in and all is working well.
Still gathering brake parts before taking the truck to the tires shop for maintenance on the brake and cooling systems.

During driving lately I have noticed that the truck pulls Left during Acceleration and pulls back to the Right when I release the throttle.

Has anyone experienced this before?

Thanks for any input.

Dean

 

[Mullaney]

Greetings all!

Some new work completed, more work found...

The new fuel tank, sending unit, fuel lines and lift pump are in and all is working well.
Still gathering brake parts before taking the truck to the tires shop for maintenance on the brake and cooling systems.

During driving lately I have noticed that the truck pulls Left during Acceleration and pulls back to the Right when I release the throttle.

Has anyone experienced this before?

Thanks for any input.

Dean

.
How hard is the pull to the left or right? Is is possible that you have a really heavy spring on the accelerator peddle? Normally pushing that right peddle wouldn't make it happen - but that could be your pull to the left...

.

 

[deank]

The weather here is not good today. But, at the next opportunity will be looking at all of the suspension connecting points to look for loose or broken items.

The change in direction is significant enough to have to make steering corrections both when apply throttle and releasing throttle.

 

[deank]

Good evening All.

I have taken a different direction in locating my steering difficulties under and removed from throttle. I am going forward with removing the work box to have it wet-blasted rather than try to sand around all of those rivets. I plan to lift with pipe jack stands and then secure to my utility trailer. Then I can tow it to get blasted. Pictures will follow while this gets done. Today I have completely disconnected the work box. 1. removed generator belt. 2. disconnected all wiring (Generator, lighting). 3. Removed the rear bumper. 4. Removed all mounting bolts (Are there supposed to be rubber body mounts for the work box? Mine was bolted directly to the frame.)

While the work box is off I will go ahead and sand the back of the cab and prime/paint it.

This will also free up the work area for the rear axle and brakes to get all that cleaned up and reworked. New wheel cylinders and brake hose.

I am looking for a replacement rear bumper (if any one has one for sale), the one on the vehicle had been tweeked at the pintle and was a little tricky to remove.

If any one has any helpful info it will be greatly appreciated.

 

[deank]

Well, today was a good day! The shelter is off the truck and ready to be ssnd blasted.

 

[deank]

Good morning all!

Todsy I am reaching out for advice. I am questioning if I should replace the wheel cylinders and rebuild the front calipers. There are no leaks. I am going to change the brake hoses because they are all exposed and have gotten brittle.

please let me know what you think.
thanks.

 

[Keith_J]

If the brake system has DOT5, there shouldn't be any corrosion so rebuild kit should be all that is needed. I've yet to encounter any corrosion in DOT5 systems.

 

[deank]

Thanks for the input.
question. If the system has not been opened, should I bother replacing any thing other than the hoses and then bleed system with fresh dot 5?

 

[Mullaney]

Thanks for the input.
question. If the system has not been opened, should I bother replacing any thing other than the hoses and then bleed system with fresh dot 5?

.
Well, if you are going to replace the rubber hoses - because they are old and tired - and they more than likely are... It will definitely cost more to rebuild or replace the calipers, re-shoe the back and rebuild the wheel cylinders. Obviously brand new could be better.

On the other hand, if there are no dark spots where fluid has seeped out of the 4 corners of the brake system, you might run it another several years with nothing but new flex lines. The old brake actuating parts might be more reliable (and not chinese) so it is a worthy thought.