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Clutch diagnosis help

dirtyfingernails

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My clutch is adjusted correctly according to the TM (ie it has the 1 inch of free play before engaging). However, it engages very near the top of the pedal. It still engages strongly and without slipping, but VERY near the top of the pedal. I'm assuming this indicates that my clutch is near the end of its life? Thanks for any advice. Steve
 

WillWagner

The Person You Were Warned About As A Child
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Mine has about an inch of freeplay and lets out about 2 inches from the top of the stroke. Odd, the pedal shaft has marks notched into it. One exactly where the freeplay ends and the other at the point where the clutch engages/disengages. Any one elses have these marks?
 

badgmc56

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When the freeplay is adjusted right and it still grabs up top, that's probably a worn disc.The pressure plate has to travel farther to engage. That is if there isn't any funny noises and everthing else feels normal.
 

dirtyfingernails

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Yeah, that's what I figured. I pulled the inspection panel on bottom and there was about a 1/8 inch coating of particulate matter all over. I guess that's the disk (or what WAS the disk). You figure it will give some warning before it ceases to engage for good (like slippage)? I'd rather wait a little bit before changing the clutch. Also, can I measure the disk for tolerances from the insepection opening? Thanks.
 

badgmc56

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It will probably start slipping before it finally goes south but I wouldn't wait that long. Not good for the flywheel or pressure plate. If you want to nurse it a bit, don't carry any heavy loads or tow anything heavier than a volkswagon.
 

FSBruva

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dirty-

Clutch? Do you mean clutch plate? Not hard. Moving tranny? Easy, once you finish cursing the Reo engineers for putting that *$%#@ cross member an inch forward of where it should be. We used a simple 1 ton engine hoist to drop (er... safely lower) mine last spring. I just removed the passenger running board so we could get the hoist point to the centerline.

The rest of the procedure has been covered in the TMs and in multiple posts. Do a search, and you will find all kinds of neat stuff. Word to the wise - get a rear main seal, a pilot bushing and anything else you might need while you're in there. Also, make sure you have a clutch alignment tool and flywheel stud. Read the TM to see what I am talking about.

Matt
 

WillWagner

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I have put a tad over 10k on my junk, with a small amount of trailer pulling. No issues....yet. I'd run it 'till it it starts to grab at the extreme top of the travel. Get all you can out of what you have.
 

JDToumanian

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When I got my deuce, I noticed that the clutch engaged near the top, too... I also had the free play correctly adjusted. Looking at the clutch disk through the inspection cover, I thought it looked thin, and so I thought it was worn out. I didn't want to get stranded somewhere, so I replaced it along with the pressure plate, pilot bushing, throwout bearing and I had the flywheel surfaced.

My first observation was that the old disk looked exactly the same as the new one - No discernible wear, and a micrometer showed less that .030 difference... But I went ahead with the replacement since I already had it apart and had the new parts in hand.

After the replacement and adjustment was finished, there was no difference in performance at all! The expensive and time consuming lesson I learned is that it's normal. As long as the free travel is adjusted correctly drive it until it starts to slip.

Jon
 

gimpyrobb

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After reading the posts in this thread, does anyone know if the clutch will stop grabbing before the rivets start chewing the flywheel? After the material gets so low, will the pressure plate not offer enough clamping force to engauge the driveline, or is there a risk of rivet dammage? Sorry for the "newb" question.
 

badgmc56

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Somewhere along the line there is something wrong if the clutch componants are new and it grabs way up top. I have seen flywheels worn that will cause this. Did you measure the thickness of the flywheel? You can only resurface it so many times. As soon as the rivets start touching , you will notice it slipping in high gear first. If it is real bad, it will slip in all gears. I am all for getting the most out of a clutch in a huge truck but is it worth the pain of getting it towed back from the middle of nowhere. The only way to be sure is to inspect and measure the componants. Sometimes you just have to go that way for piece of mind.
 

dirtyfingernails

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Jon (and everyone),
Thank you for your experiences. The duece is bobbed and singled out, so I hope I can get another year out of her (if I'm careful). I understand about getting stranded (been there, done that!!). But, I also don't want to change it until I'm sure it's broke. It makes no noise at all and still engages firmly in higher gears. Again, thank you for your help.
Steve
 

majortom

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take the link off the arm at the trany. if the arm has little or no free play its a tired clutch disc.there are tow types of disc, metal and organic. if its metal you can make it last a long time. check the crud in the clutch case, at the drain. if its shiny its metal, if its fussy its organic,and needs replacment very soon.
 

Big Mike's Motor Pool

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my clutch let out very high. one day it exploded. the pads didnt look all that bad and the flywheel and pressure plate didnt look chewed up to the naked eye.surprisingly my new clutch looked to have about just as much material on the pads as the old one. the new clutch lets out very close to the floor. when i separated the trans from the engine a bunch of springs spilled out all over the floor. i dont know if it letting out high had anything to do with the disc flying apart.
 

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