Clutch slipping, can it be adjusted?

[DieselBob]

Erik's has a decent price on a disk. Not sure about shipping though..CLUTCH PARTS

 

[Speddmon]

I agree with the "If it ain't broke" part, but for a $20 seal and the fact that you already have it apart?????


As to turning the pressure plate and flywheel, I have no idea what that would cost.

The part numbers I posted were the rear main seal parts numbers so you can buy them from any industrial supplier rather than trying to find a surplus dealer. Probably cheaper that way. I also posted the "speedie Sleeve" number, but that is only necessarry if you have a groove worn into your crankshaft where the seal is.

As to the clutch disk, all I can say is shop around and search the internet. The part number I posted was for one manufacturer, I'm sure they is another out there. Just need to find someone selling the disk reasonably.

 

[crazywelder72]

I actually just reread the post with the numbers. I will hunt around. I thought that speedie sleeve was a nice baillout if needed.

you all have sent me in the right direction... I'll let you know what i'll find.

 

[crazywelder72]

Since i am getting a clutch education, does anybody have the "specs" of the clutch?

I am not trying to redesign it, just trying to find out if Napa or similar may have one. Even if the price is way hi, at least i could research easier thru commercial truck parts stores with a napa # to cross-reference.

 

[crazywelder72]

So today i removed the lower clevis pin (btw it was a detent type push pin not a bolt ).

As it turns out I do have some freeplay (thats good) However the dimension measured 3 1/8".

The manual says approximately 3 1/4". I would think that 1/8" would be close enough. I just think the clutch is still wet. and i think my spraying brake clean was not really able to get passed the bottom of the pressure plate.

so.... do i continue to drive it and baby it when it starts to slip? OR do i go thru the trouble and expense to swap it out and see if i can clean it and have it as a spare?

 

[crazywelder72]

i put some miles on it today. she was still slipping but not as bad as the other day. I think i am going to get lucky on this one. i just cant really bury my foot into it or it will slip right away. But it is much better.

 

[Speddmon]

While it sounds like you are getting along with it ok as is. Think about planning to pull the transmission when time and money permit just for the peace of mind. Better to catch a bad clutch now than to wait until it takes out the pressure plate and flywheel.

 

[plym49]

I am not clear on whether you have enough free play. How far can you depress the clutch pedal before the slack gets taken up? If not more than an inch, adjust the linkage so you have 2 inches. Too much free play is not a problem unless you have trouble shifting because the disk is dragging, and if that happens, just tighten up the adjustment a mite.

 

[crazywelder72]

I am not clear on whether you have enough free play. How far can you depress the clutch pedal before the slack gets taken up? If not more than an inch, adjust the linkage so you have 2 inches. Too much free play is not a problem unless you have trouble shifting because the disk is dragging, and if that happens, just tighten up the adjustment a mite.

How far can you depress the clutch pedal before the slack gets taken up? It's hard to tell, with the clutch return springs attached. so I disconnected it and measured it as described in the TM. I had about 3/4" (i dont remember exactly) at the lever near the bell housing. how much that would translate up at the pedal i dont know.

Speddmon, i agree. I should start planning now so the beast wont be off line to long when its needed.

 

[O.D. Fever]

The nonforgiving plug

The Fording plug is the nonforgiving plug. If it is in and the valve covers or the rear main leek it fills the clutch and its too late.

 

[plym49]

How far can you depress the clutch pedal before the slack gets taken up? It's hard to tell, with the clutch return springs attached. so I disconnected it and measured it as described in the TM. I had about 3/4" (i dont remember exactly) at the lever near the bell housing. how much that would translate up at the pedal i dont know.

Speddmon, i agree. I should start planning now so the beast wont be off line to long when its needed.

You should be able to tell from the top with the springs connected. Button it all up and step on it with your foot. See how far your foot pushes it down before the slack is gone. If there is no slack, that is a problem, so loosen the adjustment and try again.

 

[crazywelder72]

I will check it out again tomorrow. I just remember it was hard try to feel the difference of the freeplay with the springs attached and knowing physically where the freeplay engaged without the rest of the assembly attached.

 

[crazywelder72]

I drove it for about 15 miles last night and it was manageable.

 

[crazywelder72]

hey everybody, me again... so things have been fine with my clutch all summer since it dried out.
However.......... a few days ago i went and got a large load of sand (about 10k lbs). i went easy on the truck on the ride home but the clutch was slipping some. I figured it was all because of the weight.

well today i got all the weight out of it and the clutch was slipping quite a bit. shifting into 3rd it would slip, if i put any throttle into it in 3rd it would slip and 4th was slipping worse.

i wonder if this can be adjusted or should i be looking for a new clutch?

 

[patracy]

You probably only extended the life of it, but it's given up the ghost at this point.

 

[crazywelder72]

i kind of figured that. any tips on how would i know if my pressure plate and flywheel is still good or toast?

 

[SMOKEWAGON66]

i kind of figured that. any tips on how would i know if my pressure plate and flywheel is still good or toast?

Might as well get a new one...Eriks has em fairly cheap. I only say replace it because its such a PITA to get at the clutch, that you might as well change the clutch, pressure plate, throw out, and have the flywheel turned...thats what I did...also might as well replace your rear main while its exposed...

 

[crazywelder72]

tomorrow i am heading to the swapmeet in whare NH. Hopefully i can find one and all the parts..
btw your scaring me with the rear main seal. never did one.. and wouldnt know where it the tm's to find it

 

[patracy]

If you're ok with doing a clutch, the rear main will be easy!

Just remove the transmission as you normally would. Then remove the clutch (got to anyhow). You'll most likely want to have the flywheel resurfaced given the history. The rear main on these trucks are simple. Just a driven in seal. I popped mine out with a large flatblade screwdriver. Then drove it back in with a brass hammer.

The flywheel most likely will be serviceable with just having it resurfaced. The pressure plate might also be serviceable as well provided the springs and feet are in good shape.

 

[crazywelder72]

cool, thanks for the info and the vote of confidence. i have a feeling i will be making a dent in it this Sunday.